Blushing brides
Brides will always look to wedding magazines, advertising, pop culture and celebrity nutpials for ideas about their own wedding makeup. But should they also look to high fashion runways? Each season, cosmetics trends that are defined on the catwalk set standards for fashion and beauty — but experts say those trends aren’t always appropriate for wedding makeup.
“Runways are generally not a good place to go for inspiration for bridal because they’re crazy, and that’s what they’re supposed to be,” said Wende Zomnir, co-founder of Southern California’s Urban Decay cosmetics.
“You have to be really selective with the trends you’re choosing for bridal,” said Gino Iallonardo, makeup artist for Yves Saint Laurent. “Just because strong brows are in on the runway one season doesn’t mean you want to wear strong brows for your wedding. When you look back 10 years later, you’ll date yourself.”
However, for the bride who prizes timelessness over trendiness, makeup experts agree this spring’s runways offer several fresh and playfully bright looks that are perfect for spring weddings.
A major fashion trend today is bright, bold hues of pink and coral on the cheeks. Many makeup artists recommend brides use cream blushes instead of high-impact powder blushes to achieve the best version of this.
“Our biggest trend is with blush and our high-tech lush cream formula that’s kind of a stain,” Zomnir said. “It really translates to bridal — everyone’s image of a bride is fresh-faced and beautiful and all eyes are on her. A flushed cheek really adds to that aura.”
Pati Dubroff, a celebrity beauty artist for Clarins, recommended Kevyn Aucoin’s cream blushes in pinks and corals, while Viviana Martin of Stila Cosmetics said she loves long-wearing cheek stains for both the bride’s cheeks and lips.
At the other end of the trend spectrum is monochromatic makeup, Martin said. “We saw the use of beige, sand and caramel on eyes, cheeks and lips, so the look is minimal, polished and classically beautiful,” she said. “Bridal makeup should allow your features to stand out and not look overdone.”
The natural look — a soft eye and nude lip — is a favorite of Erica Beukelman, owner of Southern California’s traveling 10.11 Makeup services. With that aesthetic, it’s crucial that the skin looks “glowing and dewy” with the help of a primer, light foundation and perhaps a little bronzer.
It’s important to avoid using too much powder or shimmer, both of which translate poorly in photographs. “You don’t want to look powdered to death and flat — it sometimes makes your skin look inhuman,” said Daniel McFadden, a makeup artist at Privé Salon and founder of his own eponymous cosmetics line.
Another spring runway trend is a brilliant pop of color on the eyes. “You can translate the neons and intense fake lashes [from the fashion shows] to a heavy coat of black waterproof mascara, black liner and a really sheer wash of soft lime green on the lid, no contour,” said Iallonardo.
In keeping with the shades of the season, Dubroff added that a dusting of sheer lilac on the lid is pretty for someone with a paler complexion, while khaki is a nice alternative for a richer skin tone.
Without venturing into the sometimes-scary territory of vibrant shadows, brides still can use color to brighten their eyes and add some playfulness. McFadden suggested that a spring bride consider colored eyeliner over regular black, which can look a bit harsh. Urban Decay offers 24/7 shadow and eyeliner pencils that don’t budge the whole day, while McFadden’s new waterproof cream shadows stay put and also work on lips.
Don’t go too crazy with many colors, cat eyes or tails on the liner, experts said. And while the trend on runways is toward very thick, strong or bleached brows, stay true to your own brow shape and size.
Appropriately enough for such a romantic occasion, this fashion season was all about gorgeous pouts. The spring trend for the all-important lips is bold color, light on the gloss.
“Instead of the saturated neon from a runway, it’s beautiful to use a girly color of rose or pink on the lips,” said Dubroff. She suggested using a stain instead of lip gloss because “there’s a lot of talking and a kissing scenario, so you don’t want the slimy lips.”
Southern California wedding makeup artist Kacee Geoffroy seconds that: “I’m in love with the lip trends right now. Nothing is prettier to me than a pink lip. I love that the more bold lip is making a statement.”
If a bride wants to be adventurous and go for the super-bright shades of “corals, oranges and really intense fuchsia, you just have to be a little smarter about how you utilize those colors,” said Iallonardo. “Don’t do full coverage, just [use] a hint of it, with a gloss or stain.”
The other current lip theme from the runways — matte lipstick — is a tougher one for brides to make work, said McFadden. “I love to see a woman with a little luster in her lips.” He recommended that brides, regardless of the trends, add a dot of shimmer to the middle of the lips.
Since so many of the on-trend looks for spring are vibrant, Beukelman advised brides to “be selective with the placement of your pop of color. I wouldn’t recommend a bold eye, cheek and lip in the same look.”
Likewise, Geoffroy said to stay away from anything too trendy and that too much statement makeup steals attention from a bride and her dress.
Additionally, as the wedding day wears on, have the maid of honor keep several products on hand, such as a nonsticky lip gloss or stain, for touch-ups. Use rice blotting papers instead of extra powder to temper any shine throughout the day because adding layers of powder will look caked-on and ghostly in photos.
McFadden said the bride should have her makeup done an hour before the ceremony, so it has time to settle.
Urban Decay’s All Nighter setting spray has thermal technology that chills makeup 10 degrees cooler than the user’s body temperature, so when the stress of the day makes her hot and flushed, the cooling spray keeps her picture perfect.
But more than anything, the experts say that it is vital to test out wedding makeup in advance. Make sure it feels authentic to the bride’s personality and aesthetic, as well as the season and venue.
“In 40 years, you don’t want to have to explain to your granddaughter why you wore that gray, taupey, poop-colored nail polish just because Chanel said it was cool,” said McFadden.
– Emerson Patrick, Custom Publishing Writer
