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Farmers market report: Berries are in season

A photo of Bababerries grown by Chuy Berries (Drew Herzoff) in Arroyo Grande, at the Encino farmers market in 2013.
A photo of Bababerries grown by Chuy Berries (Drew Herzoff) in Arroyo Grande, at the Encino farmers market in 2013.
(David Karp / For The Times)
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What’s in season: A sure sign summer is just around the corner, berries are turning market stand displays vibrant shades of red, blue and purple. Raspberries, blueberries, boysenberries and blackberries – including large Kiowa blackberries and Marionberries – are most common, though mulberries, popular with chefs, are turning up at more stands with varieties ranging from darker Pakistan mulberries to the white Shatoot mulberries. Availability will vary depending on the type of berry, with most generally available through October; mulberries are typically found through early July.

What to cook: Berries picked at the height of the season are best enjoyed as is, maybe served with whipped cream or simply eaten by the bowlful. Bake the berries in tarts or galettes, or add to a quick bread for a simple breakfast. Or try roasting the berries: Toss the fruit with a little oil and heat just until the fruit is aromatic and just begins to soften.

What’s on the horizon: Okra is just beginning to turn up at select stands.

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BERRY PAVLOVA WITH VANILLA WHIPPED CREAM AND PISTACHIOS

Total time: About 20 minutes, plus macerating time for the berries | Serves 10 to 12

Note: You can also use balsamic vinegar.

1/4 cup shelled pistachios

2 pints strawberries

1/2 pint blueberries

1/2 pint blackberries

1/2 pint raspberries

1/2 cup sugar

1 tablespoon Banyuls vinegar

1 pint whipping cream, chilled

1 vanilla bean, split

1 Pavlova shell

1. Heat the oven to 350 degrees. Place the pistachios on a baking sheet and toast until just lightly golden, 8 to 10 minutes. Set aside.

2. Carefully rinse the strawberries, blueberries, blackberries and raspberries. Hull and halve the strawberries. Place berries into a bowl with the sugar and vinegar. Set aside to macerate for 30 minutes.

3. Pour the cold whipping cream into a large bowl (or the bowl of a standing mixer if using). Scrape the seeds from the vanilla bean into the cream. Using a standing mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, a handheld mixer or a balloon whisk, whisk the cream until soft peaks form, about 2 minutes. Chill until ready for assembly.

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4. When ready to assemble, place the cooled Pavlova shell onto a large platter. Mound the whipped cream in the center, then spoon the macerated berries over the cream. Crush the pistachios slightly (using a rolling pan or heavy pot); sprinkle the pistachios over top. Cut into slices at the table.

Each of 12 servings: 402 calories; 5 grams protein; 63 grams carbohydrates; 3 grams fiber; 16 grams fat; 9 grams saturated fat; 54 mg. cholesterol; 65 mg. sodium.

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