Name of restaurant: Tink’s House
Concept: A temporary, underground, multi-course dinner series combining art, design and sensory stimulation, located in a secret location in downtown Los Angeles. In other words, one doozy of a meal.
Chef: Jon Sewitz. He’s a 19-year-old chef who already has had cooking stints at Cafe Boulud, Noma and Wolvesmouth. His partner responsible for the art angle of this project is Kelsey Isaacs, a 20-year-old artist currently studying at Rhode Island’s School of Design.
What dish represents the restaurant, and why? Raw and fried pompano “carcass” with sweet corn juice, black olive and fresno chile. The meaty sashimi-like raw fillet part of the fish was undeniably fresh and boldly seasoned, and the extra crispy bones were just as pleasurable to eat. Your chair and table will be completely covered in a fishing net, adding a never-before-experienced physical effect to your food, especially since you are barefooted and will probably get stuck in the net as you get up.
Runners-up? A glazed carrot served in the completely foam-padded bedroom eating area. The carrot is cooked in its own juices until it reaches the texture of butter, served with a pile of fennel fronds on one side and a dollop of oyster and clam cream on the other. Care to take a stab at what the chef was trying to symbolize with this dish in this particular environment?
Who’s at the next table? These eating excursions are reserved for a group of approximately eight people with whom you may or may not become really good friends by the end of the dinner experience.
Appropriate for: An excellent dinner idea for your art-gallery-hopping friends or art-loving significant other who doesn’t quite understand your food obsession. Both of you will have your way at Tink’s House.
Uh-oh: This innovative dining project is only around for about three weeks.
Service: Best water-refilling service I’ve had in a while.
What are you drinking? BYOB.
Tink’s House dinners begin July 31 and end Aug. 17. For reservations and more information, visit www.tinkshouse.com.