Dario Cecchini, the world’s most famous butcher

Dario Cecchini at Guss Meat Co., searching for the perfect piece of meat to make bistecca fiorentina, the classic grilled steak of Tuscany.  (Robert Gauthier / Los Angeles Times)

You don’t get to be the most famous butcher in the world by being shy. Cecchini takes great joy in his work.  (Robert Gauthier / Los Angeles Times)

Cecchini takes advantage of the tools at Guss Meat Co.  (Robert Gauthier / Los Angeles Times)

Cecchini is at home cooking at the Rustic Canyon residence of some friends.  (Robert Gauthier / Los Angeles Times)

The fire is moderate enough that it sears a nice crust on the outside but moderate enough to allow the steaks to cook through without burning.  (Robert Gauthier / Los Angeles Times)

Cecchini puts the finishing touches on steaks by standing them up on the barbecue, balancing them on the flat part of the T-bone. The bone conducts most of the heat and helps keep the meat warm from the inside.  (Robert Gauthier / Los Angeles Times)

The beef is grilled until it’s seared on the outside and rare in the middle.  (Robert Gauthier / Los Angeles Times)

Cecchini chooses spices to use on the various cuts of meat he is cooking at the home of restaurateur and friend Bruce Marder.  (Robert Gauthier / Los Angeles Times)

Cecchini spices his spalla di maiaile.  (Robert Gauthier / Los Angeles Times)

Tartara is a Tuscan twist on steak tartar. Though Cecchini would normally use a tougher cut for the dish, this time he has chopped up a gift filet from Harvey Gussman, to which he adds parsley and garlic, paprika and chile, and a lot of olive oil. Then salt and black pepper and a dash of lemon juice, and he’s done.  (Robert Gauthier / Los Angeles Times)

A bowl of Cecchini’s tartara, which will be spooned in dollops onto warm crostini.  (Robert Gauthier / Los Angeles Times)

Host Bruce Marder, left, gets a hug from Dario Cecchini, a butcher who’s equal parts artisan, philosopher and showman.  (Robert Gauthier / Los Angeles Times)