
A waiter, seen through a glass, prepares a table at J.R. Bistro in L.A.’s Chinatown. (Stefano Paltera / For The Times)

String beans are prepared in a seafood-based, brandy-infused XO chile sauce that brings out the beans’ sweetness. (Stefano Paltera / For The Times)

The Lotus Special stir fry is made with sautéed lotus roots, Chinese sausage, preserved meat and mixed vegetables. (Stefano Paltera / For The Times)
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Bie Ng, with her daughter Shang Ng, and her father, Lun Hua Tan, have lunch at J.R. Bistro in