Farmers market report: Corn is in season. We have recipes
What’s in season: As the temperatures rise, so do the mounds of corn piling high at the market now through mid-autumn, the season typically beginning in June and generally extending through September. Fans of white and yellow varieties have their beliefs as to which is sweeter and more flavorful, though there really isn’t much of a difference between the two beyond personal preference. A number of heirloom varieties are known for more pronounced “corn” flavor, but begin to convert their sugars to starch soon after picking; many modern varieties are bred for increased and prolonged sweetness. Look for varieties including white Silver queen, as well as Mirai, a sweet hybrid with great flavor. Corn is best enjoyed soon after picking, but many varieties will retain their sweetness and flavor up to a few days; as always, it’s best to check with the farmer when purchasing.
What to cook: Corn doesn’t need to be cooked to be enjoyed: use raw kernels to add texture and flavor to salads, salsas and slaws, or as a garnish for soups. Cook the kernels as part of a dish of succotash or calabacitas, simmer with heavy cream for a rich creamed corn side, or bake into a batch of skillet cornbread or muffins. When grilling corn, soak the ears first for a few minutes so the husks don’t bur over the fire. And be sure to save the leftover cobs as they lend rich corn flavor to soups and sauces — even ice cream.
What’s on the horizon: Heirloom Galas, Golden Delicious, Fiji and other apples are just beginning to make a show for an apple season that generally runs through November.
Click on the photo gallery for some of our favorite corn recipes.
THOMAS KELLER’S CHILLED CORN SOUP
Total time: About 2 hours, plus cooling and chilling times | This makes a scant 8 ounces soup or 4 (1/4-cup) servings
Note: This recipe calls for the use of a kitchen scale and a juicer, both of which can be found at most home and kitchen supply stores, as well as online (the Test Kitchen tested the recipe using a blender instead of a juicer and passing the purée through a strainer). This recipe also calls for a chinois, which can be found at most cooking and restaurant supply stores, as well as online. This recipe also calls for sous-vide cooking; when testing the recipe, the Test Kitchen used a vacuum sealer for the corn, butter, salt and sugar, and regulated the temperature in a large pot of water using a probe thermometer.
5 ears of corn
10 grams butter
1.5 grams kosher salt
1 gram sugar
1/2 cup (40 grams) heavy cream
Salt
1. Remove the kernels from all 5 ears of corn and weigh out 150 grams, saving the rest of the kernels for use later in the recipe. Place the measured kernels in a large bowl under running water and agitate the kernels to remove all hairs and other impurities. Seal the cleaned kernels in a cryovac bag at 100% vacuum with the butter, salt and sugar. Cook sous-vide at 185 degrees Fahrenheit (85 degrees Celsius) for 15 minutes. Remove from heat and set aside to cool.
2. Place the corncobs in a pot, add water to just cover and bring to a boil. Reduce to a simmer and cook for 45 minutes. Strain out the cobs and reserve 50 grams of the corn stock, saving the rest for another use.
3. In a small saucepan, gently heat the cream until it reduces by half. Measure 20 grams of the reduced cream, saving the rest for another use.
4. Juice the remaining corn kernels and, without straining, reserve 100 grams of the juice. In a bowl set over a pot of simmering water, cook the juice, stirring constantly to avoid scorching, until it begins to thicken to a pudding consistency, approximately 10 minutes. Add in the reduced cream and set the mixture aside to cool.
5. Combine the cooled cream mixture with the cooked corn kernels and purée in a blender, thinning as necessary with the measured corn stock to achieve the desired consistency. Pass the purée through a chinois and season with salt to taste. Chill before serving in demitasse cups.
Each serving: 104 calories; 0 protein; 8 grams carbohydrates; 0 fiber; 8 grams fat; 4 grams saturated fat; 24 mg cholesterol; 4 grams sugar; 160 mg sodium.
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