Recipe: Soft pretzels

Sometimes the old ways really are the best. When Test Kitchen manager Noelle Carter took a shot at perfecting pretzels, she tried every kind of “wash” in the book — egg whites, whole eggs, baking soda and more. But in the end, she found that the traditional dunking of pretzel dough in a bath made of lye and water created a dark color, a crisp, chewy texture, and deep flavor that none of the others could approach. Be sure to use food-grade lye, which can be ordered online at Essential Depot (www.essentialdepot.com). It’s a pretty strong alkaline, so wear gloves and be very careful when using it. Or try using baking soda that you’ve baked in the oven to strengthen. It’s not the same, but it is easier to use.

Soft pretzels

Total time: 1 hour, 20 minutes plus rising time

Servings: 12

1 (1/4-ounce) package active-dry yeast (2¼ teaspoons)

1 3/4 cups warm water

2 teaspoons light brown sugar

5 cups (22.5 ounces) bread flour, divided

1/2 cup (2 ounces) rye flour

2 teaspoons salt

3 tablespoons butter, melted

Pretzel wash

Toppings, as desired

1. In the bowl of a stand mixer, or in a large bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water. Stir in the sugar and one-half cup of the bread flour. Set aside until the yeast begins to bubble, about 10 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, in a medium bowl, whisk together the remaining bread flour with the rye flour and salt.

3. Beat the melted butter into the large bowl with the yeast. Using the dough hook (if using a stand mixer), or a fork or wooden spoon (if mixing by hand), slowly mix in the remaining flour mixture, a spoonful at a time, until all the flour is added and a firm, thick dough is formed.

4. Move the dough to a lightly floured board. Knead until it is smooth and elastic, 2 to 3 minutes.

5. Remove the dough to a large, oiled bowl. Cover and set aside in a warm place until the dough is almost doubled in size, 45 minutes to an hour.

6. Meanwhile, prepare the pretzel wash and heat the oven to 450 degrees.

7. Divide the risen dough into 12 pieces, each weighing about 3½ ounces. Form each piece into a ball, pinching the seams together at the base of each ball.

8. Slowly roll each ball out into a rope. Roll each out as far as it will go without springing back, then move to the next ball and start rolling it out, giving each rope time to relax. Eventually, roll each of the ropes out to a length of about 24 inches. Twist the ropes to form a pretzel shape, pressing each of the ends into the pretzel.

9. Dip each pretzel into the pretzel wash (wear rubber kitchen gloves and goggles if using lye) for 15 to 20 seconds, turning the pretzel over halfway to coat evenly. Remove the pretzel to a greased nonreactive baking sheet and top as desired (if using an aluminum baking sheet, line it with parchment before greasing).

10. Repeat until all the pretzels have been dipped and topped, allowing a few inches of space between each pretzel on the baking sheet.

11. Bake the pretzels, 1 sheet at a time, in the center of the oven until puffed and a rich golden brown (color will vary depending on the wash), 10 to 14 minutes. Rotate the sheet halfway through baking for even coloring.

12. Remove the baking sheet to a rack and set aside until the pretzels have cooled slightly before serving.

Each pretzel: 238 calories; 7 grams protein; 43 grams carbohydrates; 2 grams fiber; 4 grams fat; 2 grams saturated fat; 8 mg cholesterol; 1 gram sugar; 390 mg sodium.

Pretzel wash

Lye is the classic pretzel wash that creates a rich brown sheen with thin crust. To make enough wash for one batch of pretzels, dissolve 1 ounce (about 2 tablespoons) food-grade lye in 1 quart of warm water (add the lye to the water, not the other way around). Wear gloves and goggles while using this wash; lye is caustic and can burn if it comes into contact with your skin or eyes. Place the wash in a shallow glass baking dish and dip the pretzels for about 10 seconds on each side to coat. Shake off any excess lye and place the pretzels on a greased, non-aluminum baking sheet.

A wash made from baked baking soda is somewhat similar to lye, but the color isn’t as dark or shiny, and the crust isn’t as crisp. Spread a layer of baking soda on an aluminum foil-lined baking sheet. Heat the oven to between 250 and 300 degrees and bake the soda for 1 hour. To store, keep the soda in a tightly sealed jar so it does not absorb moisture from the air. To make enough wash for 1 batch of pretzels, dissolve 1 1/3 cups baked soda in 1 quart warm water. Place the wash in a glass bowl and immerse the pretzels for 3 to 4 minutes. Rinse the pretzels in a large bowl of plain water before baking.