Armenian shortbread with cardamom and mahleb
Pastry chef Sasha Piligian of Sqirl restaurant in Silver Lake adds cardamom and mahleb to her take on traditional Armenian shortbread, which is usually made with just butter, flour and sugar. Mahleb are the kernels found inside the pits of sour cherries and have an almond scent with a faintly bitter taste and a vanilla aroma. It’s best to buy whole kernels and grind them yourself to capture their delicate flavor, but you can buy powdered versions as well. Even without mahleb, these shortbread are unique in the way they bring together clarified butter and powdered sugar to make a rich and tender cookie.
Armenian Shortbread With Cardamom and Mahleb
2 hours plus chilling. Makes about 13 dozen.
- 6 green cardamom pods
- 1 cup high-fat European-style unsalted butter
- 2 packed cups powdered sugar
- 1 ⅔ cups all-purpose flour
- 1 teaspoon mahleb kernels, finely ground
- 1 teaspoon kosher salt
- Press on the cardamom pods until they crack open slightly. Put in a small saucepan and add the butter. Set over medium-low heat and melt the butter. Continue cooking until the dairy solids foam and rise to the top then sink to the bottom. Skim the foam off the top of the melted butter and discard. Remove the pan from the heat. Slowly pour the butter into a liquid measuring cup and refrigerate until the fat is solid.
- Using a small spoon, pierce through the solid butter at the edge and down to the bottom of the cup and remove a small scoop of the butter. Pour out any liquid dairy from the bottom of the cup. You should be left with a scant cup of solid clarified butter. Pick out the cardamom pods and discard.
- Combine the clarified butter and 1 cup powdered sugar in a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Beat on medium speed, scraping the bowl occasionally, until fluffy and pale, about 5 minutes.
- Meanwhile, whisk the flour, mahleb and salt in a medium bowl. Add half the mixture to the whipped butter and beat on low speed until just incorporated. Scrape the bowl, add the remaining dry ingredients and beat on low until the mixture begins to form large clumps.
- Scrape half of the dough onto a large sheet of plastic wrap. Form into a log the diameter of a quarter and wrap tightly. Repeat with the remaining dough. Refrigerate until firm, at least 1 hour.
- Heat the oven to 350 degrees. Line 2 large baking sheets with parchment paper.
- Unwrap one log and cut into ⅛-inch-thick slices. Place the rounds ½ inch apart on 1 prepared sheet. Repeat with the remaining log and sheet.
- Bake one sheet at a time until the edges are just set and the tops just dry, 7 to 9 minutes. Do not let the cookies take on any color. Cool completely on the sheets on wire racks.
- Place half of the remaining powdered sugar in a large, shallow bowl. Carefully slide one sheet of cookies into the bowl and carefully toss and turn with your fingers until evenly coated. Transfer to an airtight container. Repeat with the remaining powdered sugar and cookies.
The dough can be refrigerated for up to 2 days before slicing and baking. The cookies can be kept in an airtight container for up to 1 week.
For the record:
1:41 PM, Aug. 28, 2019The preparation time was incorrectly given as 1 hour. It’s 2 hours.
Adapted from Sasha Piligian.
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