The Gossiping Gourmet: Southeast Asian cuisine entices at Capital Noodle Bar

In 1981, Kim Tar Noodle House, featuring Southeast Asian cuisine, opened in the Chinatown area of Los Angeles.

It recently expanded its culinary line to include Capital Dim Sum Seafood Bar in the Irvine Spectrum Center, Capital Seafood, also in Irvine, and Capital Noodle Bar in Costa Mesa.

Southeast Asian cuisine emphasizes citrus flavors and herbs like mint, coriander and basil. Fish sauce replaces soy sauce, and certain ingredients such as galangal, tamarind and lemon grass lend a light touch and a strong aromatic component.

My dining companion and I decided to try Capital Noodle Bar in Costa Mesa and were very happy with our choice. The room has the kind of clean, simple décor that typifies many Asian restaurants. All the seating was communal, with long tables and benches in light-colored wood. Square, backless seats at the smaller tables were comfortable and pretty.

Customers can also eat at the bar and watch the chefs work. On each compartmentalized wooden shelf around the walls of the seating area sat some kind of interesting bottle. The ceiling was dramatic with several beautiful layers, each painted a different color.

Our very pleasant waiter said the food would come out when it was ready and in no special order, so sometimes our waiter would bring out another dish when we were still eating the previous one. However, we quickly got used to it, and the food was generally so good we couldn’t have cared less about the order.

We started with two different “small bites” for our appetizers. Crispy shrimp rolls arrived on a platter with a side of sweet dipping sauce. The six large shrimp were crusted in crisp, light batter and tasted fresh. The portion was generous.

We found that the appetizer plate of spicy garlic chicken wings, which our waiter said were popular, was also quite large. Five wings, also in a crisp crust, arrived on a few big lettuce leaves, making a pretty picture on the black plate.

We were surprised and delighted that the chicken was perfectly cooked and juicy. Fried chili peppers dotted the plate for those with a high tolerance for spice. We found the heat to be just right.

Our favorite of the evening was the Singapore vermicelli, a large plate of thin al dente vermicelli noodles, tossed with shrimp, slices of barbecue pork, onions, mushrooms, red and yellow peppers, scallions and curry powder — an eclectic dish and a delicious one. The food was a feast of flavors and textures.

Our least favorite was the Canton roast duck, cut in pieces, some of which were still connected to bone. The skin was fatty and crispy, but the meat itself was chewy and rather bland even when soaked in the sweet plum sauce. I did really enjoy the pickled cabbage mixture that came with it. Carrots, cabbage, red pepper strips and cucumbers added a bolder, spicier finish, with a touch of sweetness.

The Capital’s filet mignon cubes came with tomato rice, red onions and lemon sauce. It was kind of boring although the steak cubes were tender

I was also impressed with the variety of soups that can easily make a meal. Honey glazed barbecued pork slices came in a huge bowl of wide egg noodles with fresh lettuce that was softened by the heat of the broth. The broth itself was the real star. It was wonderful. The pork was a bit rubbery.

Only one dessert, a “cinnamon donut,” was offered. This consisted of four large, deep-fried, glazed, cone-shaped, wonton skins topped with sugar, cinnamon and a big dollop of vanilla ice cream.

I am looking forward to returning to Capital noodle bar. I especially want to try more of the delicious noodle soups.

TERRY MARKOWITZ was in the gourmet food and catering business for 20 years. She can be reached for comments or questions at m_markowitz@cox.net.

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CAPITAL NOODLE BAR

Location: 3033 Bristol St., Unit C, Costa Mesa

Hours: 11 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. daily

Prices:

Appetizers: $4.95 to $7.95

Entrees: $8.95 to $12.95

Desserts: $4.95

Wine:

By the glass: $5 to $8

Information: (949) 651-8088