Guidebook: Around Bornholm

Getting there: There are connecting flights but no nonstops from Southern California to Denmark. One option: Fly to Chicago on United or American, then connect with an SAS flight to Copenhagen. Others: Fly Alaska Airlines to Seattle and connect with SAS to Copenhagen; or take KLM to Amsterdam, then SAS to Copenhagen. Other connecting airlines include Swiss, British Airways, Air France and Lufthansa. Restricted round-trip fares begin at $916.

Cars can be rented in Copenhagen for the three-hour drive to Bornholm via the bridge that connects Denmark with Sweden, then a car ferry from Ystad, Sweden. Trains also connect with the ferry at Ystad; they leave five times daily in summer from Copenhagen's central station. Tickets for train, ferry and/or bus can be booked online at or by calling 011-45-56-95-18-66.

Telephones: To call the numbers below from the U.S., dial 011 (the international dialing code), 45 (country code for Denmark), 56 (Bornholm area code) and the local number.

Where to stay: In Ronne, the Radisson SAS Fredensborg Hotel is in a modern seaside building with understated Danish furnishings; 95-44-44, fax 95-03-14, Doubles $144.

In Svaneke, the antique-filled Hotel Siemsens Gaard has three sides open to a large courtyard facing the harbor; 49-61-49, fax 49-61-03, Doubles about $60.

Where to eat: Prices are for dinner for two without wine or beer.

Andi's Kokken, in Gudhjem, may be the best restaurant on the island, with an imaginative chef who uses fresh local ingredients; Broddegade 33; 48-50-84,; about $70.

Christianshojkroen, in a forest hunting lodge in Almindigen, serves fresh game and local fish, including herring, smoked salmon and gravlax; 97-40-13; about $70.

In Svaneke, at Restaurant Bryghuset I sampled the popular and delicious beer in the dimly lighted barroom, which glimmered with copper brewing equipment; 49-73-21; $28.

Museums: Hours below are for summer.

Bornholm Art Museum, Helligdommen, Ro; 48-43-86; 10 a.m.-5 p.m. daily. About $5 adults, $4 children.

Melsted Farm Museum, Melstedvej 25, Gudhjem; 48-55-98; Tuesday-Sunday 10 a.m.-5 p.m. About $3.50 adults, $2 children.

Nature Center, Aakirkeby (a 15-minute drive from Ronne); 94-04-00. 10 a.m.-5 p.m. daily. About $9 adults, $5 children.

Oluf Host Museum, Lokkegade 35, Gudhjem; 48-50-38; Tuesday-Sunday 10 a.m.-5 p.m. About $5 adults, $2 children.

For more information: For lodging, contact Bornholms Velkomstcenter, Ndr. Kystvej 3; 95-95-00,

Scandinavian Tourist Board, P.O. Box 4649, Grand Central Station, New York, NY 10163-4649; (212) 885-9700, fax (212) 885-9710, or