Walking to an ancient wonder

GETTING THERE:

From LAX, Delta, LACSA, Mexicana, TACA and United offer connecting service (change of plane) to Flores. Restricted round-trip fares begin at $560.

To save money, fly to Guatemala City and take an eight- to 10-hour bus to Flores. Fuente del Norte (at the corner of 17 Calle and 9 Avenida, Zone 1, Guatemala City; 011-502-2251-3817) has frequent departures. But be warned: Many are on old buses that get uncomfortably crowded. One-way fares are about $12, $24 or $26, depending on the class of service.

TELEPHONES:

To call the numbers below from the U.S., dial 011 (the international dialing code), the country code (502) and the local number.

ESSENTIALS:

Weather: The dry season (roughly late November to early May) is the best time to avoid mud, but temperatures are hot, and “dry” is a relative term: It can pour at any time, especially from September to early November.

Safety: Although most people visit Guatemala without incident, it has substantial problems with crime and unsafe highways because of reckless drivers and occasional highway robberies. Traveling in groups during daylight is best. The State Department notes that the northern Petén district is a “relatively high-risk area” because of drug and immigrant smuggling.

Health: Natural dangers include poisonous snakes and malaria-carrying mosquitoes. Insect repellent is a must, long sleeves and long pants are best, and anti-malaria pills are recommended, but consult your doctor first.

Pack: a small first-aid kit, with moleskin to treat blisters, and calf-high boots made of rubber for the mud, which are available around Flores.

WHERE TO STAY:

Hotel La Casona de la Isla, on Calle 30 de Junio, Flores; 7926-0593, vwww.hotelesdepeten.com. The hotel has a mellow vibe, a small pool and a terrace with lake views. Doubles from $48, before taxes.

Youth Hostel Los Amigos, on Calle Central, Flores; 7924-8405, www.amigoshostel.com. It has a good, cheap restaurant and a tropical-garden ambience. Shared dorm rooms begin at $3.25 per person; private doubles and singles run about $9. Matthias de Hoogh at the hostel is familiar with local, low-cost operators of tours to El Mirador and has a reputation for booking guests on good trips. His rates for four travelers are $160 per person for the five-day trek, $180 per person for the six-day.

WHERE TO EAT:

On the trail to El Mirador, meals are whatever your horses and/or mules haul in.

La Luna, on Calle 30 de Junio, Flores; 7926-3346. Easily Flores’ best restaurant, with inventive décor and upscale entrees like pork medallions in pineapple sauce. Entrees $5.50-$15.

EL MIRADOR TOURS:

Trekking to El Mirador is a no-frills experience that demands toughness and good physical condition. You’ll need a guide and at least five days, round-trip — six to see the Nakbé ruins, which are on a different trail. Expect long days (six to 10 hours of walking). Pricier tours may offer a combination of walking and horseback riding.

Maya Expeditions, 15 Calle A 14-07, Zone 10, Flores; 2363-4965, vwww.mayaexpeditions.com. The American-run company offers seven- to 10-day treks costing $625-$1,085 per person with a four-person minimum. Price does not include travel to Flores.

Martsam Travel, Calle Centroamérica, Flores; 7926-0346, www.martsam.com. The well-established Flores agency has five-day treks for $350 per person or seven-day treks for $460 per person for groups of four. English-speaking guide is extra. It also arranges guided, one-day helicopter trips to El Mirador, which cost $1,420 for up to four people if a helicopter is available in Flores. Often the helicopter must come from Guatemala City, raising the cost dramatically.

Many travel agencies in Flores sell cut-rate trips. Be careful: Some have sent clients without sufficient food or water, and service may be surly or worse.

TO LEARN MORE:

The Guatemala Tourism Institute, (888) 464-8281, www.visitguatemala.com.

— Ben Brazil