Critic’s Preview

Bulgarini Gelato Artigianale Leo Bulgarini learned to make gelato the traditional way -- with fresh ingredients -- from an octogenarian gelato maker in Sicily who knew all the tricks. Stop in for a taste of the real thing in irresistible flavors such as Sicilian almond, pistachio, zabaglione, plum sorbetto and espresso granita. In the summer, Bulgarini and his wife Elizabeth will show Italian films outside in the courtyard. What could be better? 749 E. Altadena Drive, Altadena; (626) 791-6174; www.bulgarini gelato.com

Blanca Pinot Provence alum Nicolas Weber can now be found at Blanca right on the water at Newport Beach, turning out crudo (Italian-style raw fish) and a slew of creative Mediterranean-accented dishes, including organic soft egg ravioli, albacore crudo with espelette pepper and Serrano ham, and wild mushroom paella with fiddlehead ferns and aioli. Tuesday through Friday, happy hour dishes and drinks are half off. That means duck-fat fries, fried zucchini blossoms with ricotta and media noche panini made with pork confit. Ask for a table outside with a view of the harbor. Lido Center, 3420 Via Oporto, Newport Beach, (949) 673-0414; www.blanca newport.com

Breakfast at Anisette The new French brasserie from former Bastide chef Alain Giraud began serving breakfast as of yesterday. Now that this long awaited project in the Clocktower Building is open, stop in for a petit dejeuner of cafe au lait, juice and a basket of croissants and other morning pastries (all made in-house) for $12. A few dollars more gets you either an English (eggs, bacon, black sausage, etc.) or an American breakfast (bacon, hashbrowns, pancakes, etc.). Lunch and dinner to follow. Clocktower Building, 225 Santa Monica Blvd., Santa Monica, (310) 395-3200; www.anisettebrasserie.com