Healthy Fiesta

“Mexican food” conjures up an image of tasty but starch-laden, often greasy dishes that must be ruled out for those on special diets.

It needn’t be that way, however. To prove it, three experts in the fields of medicine, diet and Mexican cooking pooled their know-how to design recipes low in fat, sugar and salt but high in flavor and acceptability.

They then staged a “Healthy Fiesta” during which they prepared and commented on the recipes. Open to the public, the fiesta took place at the Annenberg Center for Health Sciences at Eisenhower Medical Center in Rancho Mirage.

The planners were Dr. Neil E. Romanoff, associate medical director of the EMC Diabetes Program; Laurie Levitsky, clinical dietitian for the diabetes program, and Patti Delgado Service, owner-operator of Las Casuelas Terraza Mexican restaurant in Palm Springs.

Levitsky helped Service and Romanoff modify the recipes to make them healthful. “The Mexican diet is potentially a very healthful diet,” Levitsky said, pointing out that it is low in meat and emphasizes vegetables, fruits and grains.

Rather than a poor imitation of the real thing, the food demonstrated turned out to be pleasing and popular. Romanoff noted that the recipes were based on what he called the “higher cuisine” of Mexico, not the American concept of burritos, lard and other calorie-and cholesterol-laden foods.

“I didn’t find the flavors bland,” he said, commenting that the strong taste of such seasonings as cilantro, chiles and lime juice compensated satisfactorily for the lack of salt. Feedback indicates that those who attended the demonstration have continued to use the recipes, he said.

Service pointed out that spices and herbs such as pepper, cumin and oregano are more important to Mexican cooking than salt. “Mexican food is not very salty if it’s done well,” she added. On the other hand, Americans are so noted for their use of salt that Mexicans call them salados (salty ones), she said.

Tips from Levitsky on reducing fat intake include the substitution of yogurt for sour cream as a garnish for tostadas and other dishes. Avocados are high in fat and should be eliminated or used in limited quantity. Tortilla chips can be baked until dry instead of fried, she said.

The demonstration recipes included chicken breasts sauteed with vegetables and papaya. This saltless recipe employs low sodium chicken stock, corn oil for sauteing and eliminates the chicken skin. The vegetable assortment and sharp seasonings such as mustard and vinegar make up for the lack of salt. Foil-baked fish and barbecued chicken marinated with lime, ginger and cilantro are additional saltless entrees. Ceviche made with shrimp is suggested as a first course. The sodium content of the shrimp is not a problem except for very restricted diets, Levitsky said.

An idea for salads is an oil-less vinaigrette dressing that acquires its flavor from grapefruit juice, grapefruit pulp and vinegar. Levitsky suggests using it with romaine lettuce and raw vegetables such as tomatoes, cucumbers, green peppers and jicama. The dessert is a natural-tasting combination of bananas, strawberries, yogurt and coconut.

Dieters might be surprised to find bean dishes among the recipes. But Levitsky explained that beans are good for diabetics. “They don’t raise blood sugar as much as other starches,” she said.

SAUTEED CHICKEN WITH PAPAYA

1 pound boned, skinned chicken breasts

2 tablespoons corn oil

1/2 red onion, coarsely chopped

1 sweet red pepper, sliced

1 mild green chile or green pepper, sliced

1/2 teaspoon chopped garlic

1/2 cup sliced mushrooms

3 tablespoons white wine vinegar or lime juice

1/2 cup low sodium chicken stock

1/2 teaspoon Dijon or lime mustard

1 papaya, sliced and peeled

Cilantro sprigs

Cut chicken into strips 1/2-inch wide. Heat oil in skillet, add chicken and cook until color turns white. Remove from skillet, place in warm bowl and cover. In oil remaining in skillet, saute onion, red pepper, chile and garlic until onion is tender but not browned.

Add mushrooms and cook 1 minute longer. Remove from pan and add to chicken. Deglaze pan with vinegar. Add stock and mustard and cook until reduced by half. Add chicken and sauteed vegetables. Cover and cook 2 minutes. Add papaya and heat 1 minute. Serve garnished with cilantro. Makes 4 servings.

CEVICHE

1 pound shrimp, peeled and deveined

7 tablespoons lime juice

1 cup 1/4-inch cubes peeled, seeded tomato

4 canned serrano chiles, washed, drained and chopped

1/2 cup finely chopped red onion

1/4 cup finely diced celery heart

1/2 avocado, cut into small cubes, optional

1/4 cup regular or low sodium catsup

1 tablespoon olive oil

2 teaspoons finely chopped cilantro

1/2 teaspoon crumbled oregano

Grated peel of 1 lime

Freshly ground pepper

Place shrimp in bowl. Add lime juice. Cover and refrigerate, stirring occasionally, 12 hours or longer. Add tomato, chiles, onion, celery heart, avocado, catsup, oil, cilantro, oregano, lime peel and season to taste with pepper. Chill. Makes 8 servings.

BLACK BEANS

1 pound black beans

2 1/2 quarts water

2 stalks celery, with leaves, cut up

1 carrot, cut up

1 onion, stuck with 2 whole cloves

2 cloves garlic

1 small dried hot chile

1 bay leaf

1 cup dry white wine

1 teaspoon thyme

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoon chopped parsley

Wash beans and cover with cold water. Soak overnight. Drain beans, place in 5-quart saucepan or Dutch oven. Add 2 1/2 quarts water. Water level should be 1 inch above beans. Tie celery, carrot, onion, garlic, chili and bay leaf in cheesecloth and add to pot. Bring to boil, reduce heat and simmer 1 hour. Drain beans, reserving liquid.

Place beans in 2-quart casserole. Add wine, 1 cup bean liquid, thyme and pepper. Cover and bake at 350 degrees 1 1/2 hours, until beans are tender but not mushy. Stir occasionally during cooking and add more reserved bean liquid if beans seem dry. Add parsley just before serving. Makes 12 servings.

FISH IN FOIL

4 fillets flounder, sole or red snapper, 1 1/2 pounds

1/2 cup non-fat plain yogurt

1/2 cup thinly sliced onion

1 cup Red Salsa

Pepper

Chopped cilantro

Lime slices

Marinate fish in yogurt at room temperature 1 hour. Place fish in foil and add onion, salsa and pepper to taste. Fold foil over fish and seal tightly. Bake at 450 degrees 8 to 10 minutes. Garnish with cilantro and lime slices. Makes 4 servings.

Red Salsa

3/4 cup tomatillos

2 cups chopped tomatoes

1/2 cup chopped red onion

1/4 cup cilantro, chopped

1 jalapeno chile, finely chopped

3 tablespoons lime juice

Remove parchmentlike outer skin of tomatillos and chop coarsely. Mix tomatillos, tomatoes, onion, cilantro and chile. Stir in lime juice. Makes 8 servings.

BLACK BEAN DIP

1 cup cooked Black Beans

1/3 cup plain yogurt

2 teaspoons Red Salsa or green salsa

Dash black pepper

Combine beans, yogurt, salsa and pepper in food processor and process until pureed. Makes 1 1/3 cups.

TOMATILLO SALSA

8 tomatillos

2 cloves garlic

2 sprigs cilantro, chopped

1/2 serrano chile, seeded and deveined

Dash black pepper

Remove parchmentlike outer skin of tomatillos. Place tomatillos in saucepan with water to cover. Boil until tender, about 5 minutes. Combine drained tomatillos, garlic, cilantro, chile and pepper in food processor and process until pureed. Makes 1 cup.

CHICKEN BARBECUE

1/4 cup lime juice

1 tablespoon grated lime peel

1 tablespoon grated ginger root

1/4 cup cilantro leaves, chopped

2 tablespoons olive oil

Pepper

4 chicken breast halves, 2 pounds with bones

Mix lime juice, peel, ginger, cilantro, olive oil and season to taste with pepper. Coat chicken with mixture. Cover and marinate in refrigerator overnight. Grill over low to medium coals until juices are no longer pink, 30 to 45 minutes. Makes 4 servings.

GRAPEFRUIT VINAIGRETTE

1/2 cup freshly squeezed grapefruit juice

1/4 cup distilled white or fruit-flavored vinegar

2 tablespoons water

1/2 teaspoon minced garlic

1 teaspoon chopped cilantro

2 teaspoons chopped parsley

1/4 cup pureed grapefruit pulp

Combine grapefruit juice, vinegar, water, garlic, cilantro, parsley and pureed grapefruit in bowl and whisk together. Or combine in jar with tight-fitting lid and shake to mix. Refrigerate, covered, until ready to use. Makes about 1 cup.

PLATANOS CON COCO

(Bananas With Coconut)

2 ounces unsweetened shredded coconut

4 small bananas

1/2 cup non-fat plain yogurt

1/4 cup pureed unsweetened frozen strawberries

Toast coconut in skillet over medium heat until brown. Cut bananas in halves lengthwise, then in 3-inch pieces. Mix yogurt and strawberries. Roll bananas in yogurt mixture until completely coated. Roll in toasted coconut. Makes 8 servings of 2 pieces each.