A Sparkling Lunch at L’Ermitage

If you have any desire to sit down at one of Los Angeles’ most elegant and expensive tables, around noon would be a good time to do it. Three weeks ago, for the first time in seven years, L’Ermitage (730 N. La Cienaga Blvd., West Hollywood (213) 652-5840), began to open for lunch. Those who were surprised by the move will be even more surprised by the prices. “It is L’Ermitage food and Moustache Cafe prices,” says Chef Michel Blanchet.

Well, not quite. But prices on the menu are in the $10 to $15 range. And while the offerings are simple--poached fish, pasta with wild mushrooms, fancy salads and the like--they are also superb. Should you have someone you want to treat very, very well, a lunch of L’Ermitage’s superlative smoked salmon should do the trick--especially when served in this lovely room. Although it can seem austere in the evening, it simply sparkles in the sunshine.