APRIL FOOLS

It’s not a joke--these pretty, fruit-swirled desserts really are called fools. In his book “Beard on Food,” the late James Beard credits English cookbook author Elizabeth David with the conjecture that the word fool may have been derived from the French foule , which means pressed or crushed. Certainly a reasonable theory.

Only a few simple ingredients--pureed fruit, sugar and whipped cream--are needed to create one. And to make it even easier, either fresh or frozen fruit works well. Originally, the dessert was made with the exceptionally thick cream that is rarely available in these cholesterol-conscious days. Whipped cream makes an acceptable substitute by modern standards, however. So while today’s version may not be totally authentic, it still tastes wonderful. No fooling. RHUBARB FOOL 2 pounds rhubarb teaspoon salt cup hot water 1 cup sugar, about 1 cup whipping cream, whipped

Discard rhubarb leaves and wash stalks. Cut stalks into 1-inch slices. Place in saucepan with salt and water and bring to boil. Reduce heat and simmer gently until rhubarb is tender, about 20 minutes. With a slotted spoon remove rhubarb from pan and place in blender. Leave juices in pan and set aside. Puree rhubarb in blender. Return fruit pulp to pan and stir in 1 cup sugar. Place pan over high heat and cook rapidly, uncovered, until mixture is thick. Stir often. Add more sugar if needed. Chill well. To serve, spoon chilled fruit puree over whipped cream and fold in just enough to obtain a marbleized effect. Makes 6 servings.

RASPBERRY FOOL 2 cups fresh raspberries or strawberries Sugar 4 eggs, lightly beaten teaspoon salt 2 1/2 cups milk, scalded 1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla Mint leaves

Reserve a few berries for garnish, then press the rest through sieve or food mill, obtaining as much pulp as possible along with juice. Discard seeds. Season raspberry puree to taste with sugar. Chill well, stirring occasionally to be sure sugar is absorbed.

Blend eggs, 1/2 cup sugar and salt in top of double boiler. Slowly stir hot milk into egg mixture until well blended. Place pan over, but not touching, simmering water. Cook, stirring constantly, until custard coats a metal spoon. Remove from heat at once and place pan in a larger bowl filled with ice water or pour custard into a cold bowl to cool quickly. Stir in vanilla. Cover bowl tightly with plastic wrap or foil and chill well.

To serve, layer fruit puree and custard in two or three layers in individual dessert bowls or lightly fold them together just enough to obtain a marbleized effect. Garnish with reserved whole berries and mint leaves. Makes 4 to 6 servings.

PRODUCED BY ROBIN TUCKER

FOOD STYLIST: MARLENE BROWN

TABLEWARE FROM THE NANCY EPSTEIN GALLERY, BEVERLY HILLS