a celebration for THE FOURTH : Choosing the right grill and knowing the basics add up to a star-spangled Independence Day cookout.

At first glance the myriad of outdoor grills in today’s marketplace is mind-boggling. They seem to come in all sizes and shapes, with a full array of gadgets and gimmicks. How can anyone decide which to purchase?

Fortunately, it’s not as overwhelming as it first seems. When all the bells and whistles are stripped away, take a closer look and choose a grill to suit your cooking needs. A few simple questions may help the potential buyer.

--What kind of food will be cooked? Will grilling be the main cooking method? Or will roasting, steaming, smoking and baking capabilities also be desired?

There are basically two types of grills available--uncovered and covered. For those who simply want to grill hamburgers, frankfurters, steaks and chops, an uncovered grill, often called a brazier, will do just fine. Sometimes these grills have a half-hood or wind screen and they are almost always fueled by charcoal. Usually the cooking rack is adjustable to help control cooking temperatures.

A covered grill offers more versatility--both through the type of fuel used and the ability to cook indirectly, smoke and bake. The cover and vents help control heat and retard flare-ups, so more controlled cooking also is possible.

--What size grill will be needed? How much food will be prepared at one time?

Obviously a tiny grill will do nicely for a twosome, but those who intend doing a lot of outdoor entertaining will no doubt be in the market for something larger.

--Does the grill need to be portable? Or will a built-in model be better?

If the grill is to be taken along on picnics or camping trips, a smaller, more compact model may be the best choice. If it is to be used strictly in one place, something larger, or even a stationary model can be considered.

Smaller charcoal grills are the most portable. Gas grills fueled by bottled propane are somewhat portable; natural gas and electric grills are limited to areas where they can be connected to a power source.

--How much outdoor grilling will be done?

A grill that gets almost daily use and is expected to last several years needs to be made of heavy, top quality, durable material. A lighter weight model might do well, if infrequent use is intended.

--Is there a preference for the type of fuel used for cooking?

Charcoal and gas are the most popular choices, but electric grills also are available. Each type of fuel has pros and cons:

Charcoal burns slowly and evenly. The supply needs to be kept replenished and stored in a dry place. Liquid, solid, electric or chimney starters aid in lighting the briquettes. Fuel needs to be added when foods require more than an hour of grilling. Charcoal imparts some flavor to the foods being cooked and aromatic wood chips may be sprinkled over the hot coals for additional flavor.

Gas may be supplied by a natural gas hook-up or canister of propane. The direct line ensures a constant supply; canisters need periodic refilling. Gas heats quickly, is easy to control and has the ability to supply the desired cooking temperature indefinitely. The lava rocks found in gas grills need to be replaced or cleaned periodically by steaming or boiling. Gas does not impart any flavor to the food being cooked, but aromatic chips may be used if placed inside a tube of foil, open on both ends.

Electricity heats quickly and gives a constant supply as long as there’s a power source available. Electricity doesn’t flavor the foods being cooked and it’s not possible to use aromatic chips.

--Once the basic grill is selected, those extra features desired may be added.

Keep in mind, however, the old rule of thumb that you probably don’t need everything offered. Also, many items can be added later, if and when they’re needed.

The same guidelines hold true when it comes to accessories, but a heavy-duty cooking mitt and set of long-handled utensils will be useful as well as a safety precaution. If charcoal is being used for fuel, a plastic spray bottle with water is handy to control flare-ups on uncovered grills. Beyond these items, it is best to be certain that the item will really be used before a purchase is made.

A basic cookbook is one other good buy for the novice. There are any number on the market, including those published by the different grill manufacturers. The following is only a partial list and includes some old standards, as well as a few just off the press:

“Hot Off the Grill,” Better Homes and Gardens, 1985, a well-illustrated basic book.

“Betty Crocker’s Barbecue Cookbook,” Golden Press, 1982, another good basic reference.

“Gas Grill Cookouts--Simple to Sensational,” Arkla Industries, 1984, well-illustrated basic book for the gas grill.

“The Complete Barbecue Cookbook,” Charmglow, Contemporary Books Inc., 1984, $14.95, another basic book for the gas grill.

“Barbecuing the Weber Covered Way,” Tested Recipe Publishers Inc., 1972, $8.95, well-illustrated basic book for the manufacturer’s gas and charcoal kettle grills.

“Barbecue! From the Reynolds Wrap Kitchens,” Reynolds Metals Co., 1982, $8.95, includes 135 tested techniques and 400 step-by-step color photos which promote the company’s product, but also provide basic information.

“Cooking Over Coals,” Revised Edition by Mel Marshall, Stephen Greene Press Inc., 1986, $9.95, pocket-sized paperback handy to take along on camping trips. It includes information on preparing fish and game in the field, as well as more traditional foods.

“Cooking With Fire & Smoke” by Phillip Stephen Schulz, Simon and Schuster, 1986, $17.95, all-around basic guide to outdoor cooking.

“Grill Book--New Foods and Flavors for the Grill” by Kelly McCune, Harper & Row, 1986, $12.95, beautifully illustrated book that is intended to expand the repertoire of foods for the grill.

“Fish on the Grill” by Barbara Grunes and Phyllis Magida, Contemporary Books Inc., 1986, $7.95, basic information on buying and storing fresh fish along with preparation techniques and more than 70 recipes.

-- Assuming the choice has been made and the grill is now duly installed, what better time than July 4 to fire it up.

Grilling is probably the most popular method of cooking on this all-American holiday. If the choice was an uncovered brazier, check the tips that accompany this article on using charcoal. When the coals are ready, spread them evenly over the bottom of the grill, position the rack and you’re ready to grill foods up to 1 1/2 inches thick.

Hamburgers and hot dogs are about as American as this holiday. Rare burgers need about 10 minutes of cooking, with a turn about halfway through; increase the timing to 12 minutes for medium doneness. Since frankfurters are already fully cooked, they only need to be heated through and browned. Keep a spray bottle of water handy to reduce flare-ups.

Those choosing covered grills have the option of cooking by the direct method already described, or using the indirect method where the fuel is arranged equally on both sides of a foil drip pan. The food goes on the grill directly over the drip pan and the cover is used during cooking. Indirect heat is necessary for cooking larger, thicker foods and for baking.

A quick word about the aromatic chips now available for adding a variety of subtle flavors to the foods being cooked: All require soaking, then draining, before sprinkling directly over charcoal or placing inside a tube of foil with open ends for use with gas grills.

Recipes taken from cookbooks were not tested by The Times. The remaining recipes were prepared on a covered kettle grill fueled by charcoal briquettes. The unit’s cooking grill is stationary, five inches above the fuel grid. All vents were fully open.

GRILLED PORTERHOUSE STEAKS

4 porterhouse steaks, cut 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 inches thick

Salt, pepper

Slash fat on edge of steaks at 1 1/2- to 2-inch intervals to prevent curling during cooking. Using direct heat, place steaks on grill over medium-hot coals. Cover and cook 9 to 11 minutes for rare, 13 to 15 minutes for medium, turning once with tongs or spatula. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Makes 4 servings.

Note: To sear steak, leave cover off for first 1 to 2 minutes per side.

RED PEPPER HOLLANDAISE

(From “Cooking With Fire & Smoke”)

1 sweet red pepper

2 egg yolks

2 tablespoons lemon juice

1/4 teaspoon Dijon mustard

6 tablespoons unsalted butter, frozen

1/4 teaspoon hot pepper sauce

Salt

Roast pepper over gas flame, on grill or under broiler until charred. Carefully wrap in paper towels and place in bag. Let cool 5 minutes.

Rub off pepper skin with paper towels. Core, seed and roughly chop pepper. Place in food processor container and process until smooth.

Beat egg yolks with lemon juice and mustard in top of double boiler. Place over simmering water and stir in pureed pepper. Stir until mixture begins to thicken. Stir in butter, 1 tablespoon at time, until smooth and thick. Stir in hot pepper sauce and season to taste with salt. Makes about 1 cup.

-- -- --

The following recipe won a first prize of $1,000 in the barbecue category of the 1986 California Beef Cook-Off held last weekend.

BELL’S BARBECUED BLUE CHEESE BEEF TENDERLOINS

2 (8-ounce) beef tenderloin steaks, cut 1 inch thick

1 clove garlic, cut in half

Salt

1 tablespoon cream cheese

2 teaspoons finely chopped onion

2 teaspoons blue cheese

2 teaspoons plain yogurt

Dash white pepper

Chopped parsley

Rub each steak on both sides with cut garlic. Sprinkle with salt to taste. Combine cream cheese, onion, blue cheese, yogurt and pepper. Set aside.

Using direct heat, grill steaks over medium-hot coals 5 to 7 minutes per side or until desired degree of doneness. Top with blue cheese mixture and sprinkle with parsley. Makes 2 servings.

GRILLED CORN ON COB

4 ears corn on cob, with husks

Unsalted butter or margarine

Salt, pepper

Gently peel back corn husks and remove silk. Spread corn with butter, then pull husks back over ears and tie with piece of husk, string or fine wire. Soak ears in cold water 30 minutes.

Remove corn and shake well to remove excess water. Using direct heat, grill corn, covered, over medium-hot coals 20 to 30 minutes, turning frequently. Use insulated mitt to remove husks. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Makes 4 servings.

CHEESE HERB BUTTER

(From “Barbecue”)

1/2 cup softened butter

3 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese

1 tablespoon finely chopped parsley

1/2 teaspoon crushed basil

1/4 teaspoon garlic powder

Combine softened butter, Parmesan, parsley, basil and garlic powder. Makes about 1/2 cup.

Note: Use on corn on cob and other grilled vegetables.

GRILLED PARMESAN TOMATOES

4 large tomatoes

2 tablespoons melted butter or margarine

Salt, pepper

1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese

2 teaspoons chopped parsley

Stem, wash and cut tomatoes in halves crosswise. Brush cut surfaces with melted butter. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Sprinkle Parmesan and parsley over tomatoes. Using direct heat, place tomatoes on grill over medium-hot coals. Cover and heat through, about 10 minutes. Makes 4 servings.

GRILLED TROUT WITH FRESH DILL

3 to 4 trout

1 bunch dill

6 to 8 thin lemon slices

Rinse trout and pat dry with paper towels. Line hinged wire basket with dill. Place trout over dill and top each with 2 lemon slices.

Using direct heat, grill fish, covered, over medium-hot coals 16 to 18 minutes, turning once. Makes 3 to 4 servings.

GARLIC AND HERB FRENCH BREAD

1 loaf French bread

1 cup butter or margarine

5 cloves garlic, crushed

1/2 teaspoon crushed sweet red pepper

Thyme sprigs

Cut bread in half horizontally. Process butter, garlic and red pepper in food processor until well blended. Spread butter mixture onto bread. Top with thyme sprigs. Wrap bread in foil.

Using direct heat, grill, covered, over medium-hot coals 15 to 20 minutes. For crisp crust, loosen foil on top and ends 5 minutes before end of heating time. Makes 4 servings.

GRILLED CHICKEN WITH

GREEN ONIONS

1 chicken, halved

2 cloves garlic

1 shallot

1/2 cup dry white wine

1/2 cup butter or margarine

1 bunch green onions

Rinse chicken and pat dry with paper towels. Thinly slice garlic and shallot and insert under chicken skin. Combine wine and butter.

Using indirect heat, place chicken halves on cooking grill, cut side down, directly over drip pan. Cover and cook 55 to 60 minutes, brushing occasionally with wine and butter mixture. (Do not turn chicken during grilling.)

Just before chicken is done, grill green onions over direct heat. Serve as accompaniment to chicken. Makes 4 servings.

BERT GREENE’S FREETOWN

BARBECUE SAUCE

(From “Cooking With Fire & Smoke”)

2 tablespoons oil

1 onion, finely chopped

1 clove garlic, minced

1 1/2 teaspoons minced ginger root

1 (8-ounce) can plum tomatoes

1/2 cup chili sauce

2 tablespoons dark brown sugar, packed

3 tablespoons honey

3 tablespoons soy sauce

3 tablespoons dry Sherry

2 teaspoons chili powder

Dash cayenne pepper

Dash oregano

Heat oil in medium saucepan over medium-low heat. Add onion and cook 1 minute. Add garlic and ginger and cook 4 minutes.

Drain tomato juice into pan. Mash tomatoes and stir in with chili sauce, brown sugar, honey, soy sauce, Sherry, chili powder, cayenne and oregano. Heat to boiling, then reduce heat and simmer, uncovered, 30 minutes. Makes about 2 cups.

Note: Use for poultry, beef and pork.

CORNISH GAME HENS

3 to 4 Cornish game hens

1/2 cup butter or margarine

1 clove garlic, minced

1 tablespoon shredded ginger root

Juice of 1/2 lime

Rinse hens and pat dry with paper towels. Combine butter, garlic, ginger and lime juice.

Using indirect heat, place hens on cooking grill directly over drip pan. Cover and cook 1 hour, without turning, brushing occasionally with butter mixture. Makes 3 to 4 servings.

RASPBERRY VINEGAR MARINADE

(From “Grill Book”)

3/4 cup red raspberry vinegar

1/2 cup dry white wine

1/4 cup olive oil

Juice of 1/4 lemon

2 shallots, coarsely chopped

2 tablespoons chopped basil

Freshly ground pepper

Combine vinegar, wine, oil, lemon juice, shallots and basil. Season to taste with pepper. Marinate food in mixture up to 4 hours before grilling. Makes 1 3/4 cups.

Note: For more pronounced raspberry flavor, add 1/2 cup lightly mashed raspberries. Use for Cornish game hens and other small game birds.