From Cuba, Brazil, Chile and elsewhere in Latin America come cuisines that are capturing imaginations and taste buds in the Los Angeles area : LATIN ’86

Do you hear that Latin beat? Cha, cha, cha? Mamba? Samba? Tango? Bossa nova? Do you hear Desi Arnaz’ distant nasal, “aiiyee ay ya-ya”?

Can you whiff the velvety aroma of fried platanos or the trailing fires of chiles wafting in the air? Have you noticed the mushrooming of restaurants coming up with Latin themes? The growing number of Latin markets?

The reasons? For one, a dramatic rise in the Latin population in Greater Los Angeles, which now equals the Latin population growth of New York City. Los Angeles boasts a 17% increase in its immigrant population from throughout Latin America since 1980, making a total population of 816,076 in Los Angeles and about 5.3 million in California.

Only this year, emissaries from Brazil, a country that takes up half the land area of South America, came to California to promote Bahia, a Brazilian port that has a colorful culture and Afro-Creole-European cuisine now in demand. Festivals throughout California using Bahian cooks featured such dishes as Casquinha, crab shells filled with crab meat and coconut cooked in coconut milk; egg puffs of shrimp and chicken called frigideira, and black beans and shrimp patties fried in palm oil called akaraje. In the recipe given here (Ensopado de Lagosta), lobster is cooked in coconut milk and cilantro.

At a Bahian party given at the Meridien Hotel in Newport Beach, potent fruit juice drinks spiked with cachaca, a sugar-cane liqueur (available in markets here), were passed. Meanwhile, a band reproduced the Afro-Brazilian music and dances brought to Brazil by the first West African slaves in the New World, shortly after the Portuguese discovered Brazil in 1550.

According to Mario Massinelli of BrazUSA, a Brazilian travel-promotion agency in Los Angeles, an increasing political and cultural consciousness toward Latin America is developing in North America, particularly on the West Coast where the Latin American population is growing dramatically. In Los Angeles, he says, sales of Brazilian and Costa Rican beers have doubled in the last year, and today, more than ever, interest in Brazilian restaurants has suddenly skyrocketed.

“We get dozens of queries daily,” he said.

In Los Angeles, Barbara Lazaroff of Spago, Chinois on Main and now Zapotec, a Latin restaurant being built in Indian Wells near Palm Springs, conceived of a Latin cuisine with loosely interpreted food from regions throughout Latin America.

“We’re going to do with Zapotec what we did with Chinois--a mirror of the Latin cuisine rather than an authentic representation. There will be some authentic and many loosely translated dishes from Peru, Guatemala, Mexico and other countries in Latin America. I don’t think Latin American cuisine has yet reached the consciousness of the rest of the nation, but I think it has here,” she said. She thinks the rich cuisines of Mexico and other Latin American countries have been sorely underestimated by their North American neighbors.

Basic Ingredients

Mario Tamayo and chef Toribio Prado (he was formerly with the Ivy restaurant), who now operate Cha Cha Cha, a new Caribbean-California nouvelle restaurant, make use of the basic Central and South American ingredients, among them black beans and rice, plantains (platanos), yucca (yuca), small round red potatoes from the mountains of Colombia (papas choriadas) and small green bananas called tostones , which become crunchy when fried.

The touch is light with a definite California stamp.

“I had begun to miss Caribbean cooking I used to enjoy when living in New York and decided it was time to do a restaurant in Los Angeles,” said Tamayo, who is a native of Colombia.

Chef Prado prepares chicken marinated in lime juice, cilantro, garlic and cumin served with julienne vegetables sauteed in olive oil. There is a chicken mole in which the chicken is grilled then dipped in mole sauce, and a grilled steak served with a topping of julienned sauteed vegetables. Plantains are deep-fried in corn oil instead of lard, and olive oil is used in place of other fats for sauteing foods.

Many restaurants, such as Trumps and some relatively new restaurants, such as City restaurant, Rebecca’s, Columbia Bar and Grill and American Sampler, are translating Latin ideas in many dishes served. Chef Michael Roberts of Trumps created a Cuban sandwich to assuage nostalgia for the vendor food of the East Coast. At Columbia Bar and Grill, chef Tim McGrath prepares pasilla chiles stuffed with shrimp, corn and cilantro. At American Sampler, chef Tim Cushman uses black beans instead of pinto beans for the standard house beans, and at Rebecca’s, a loosely interpreted Mexican-California restaurant, owner Bruce Marder offers Peruvian-style ceviche.

Argentine Cuisine

A strong--and growing--Argentine population in Los Angeles is responsible for a number of restaurants serving Argentine cuisine. Parrillada, the traditional outdoor gaucho Argentine barbecue almost always featured in the cuisine, is made up of skirt steaks, short ribs, sweetbreads and chorizos grilled on a brazier and served with a hot and spicy vinaigrette called chimichuri. Filled crepes with a thick sweet cream called panqueques con de leche also have made a hit in Los Angeles among Argentine restaurant customers.

Today Los Angeles has a wealth of Latin American restaurants, offering everything from authentic Cuban to Chilean cuisines. Many of them are often reviewed on our pages.

We give some recipes gathered from various sources, including those from restaurants mentioned above, as well as authentic Latin American restaurants, such as Rincon Chileno, a Chilean restaurant featuring wonderful cushion-shaped buns ( pan amasado ) and tamales called humitas, which are available along with many other Chilean specialties at the adjacent takeout store.

From El Dorado, a Colombian restaurant in Los Angeles, there is a corn chowder. El Colmao, a Cuban restaurant in Los Angeles (some diners think El Colmao is like dining in Havana), features a wonderful fried plantain as a side dish.

Also, see the glossaries defining many of the foods and specialties of the cuisines found in restaurants and Latin markets on Page 22.

BAHIAN LOBSTER IN COCONUT MILK

1/2 cup olive oil

1/4 cup lemon juice

3 sprigs cilantro, chopped

1 clove garlic, minced

1/2 teaspoon salt, optional

2 (2-pound) lobsters, halved

2 medium onions, chopped

1 green pepper, seeded and chopped

3 medium tomatoes, peeled and chopped

1/2 cup coconut milk

Combine 1/4 cup olive oil, lemon juice, half of cilantro, garlic and salt in large glass baking dish.

Place lobster in marinade, turning to coat pieces well. Let stand 2 hours in refrigerator. In Dutch oven, heat remaining 1/4 cup olive oil. Add onions, green pepper, tomatoes, remaining cilantro and lobsters with marinade. Cook, stirring occasionally, about 15 minutes. Add coconut milk. Simmer 10 minutes. Makes 4 servings.

BAHIAN BATIDA

(Spiked Fruit Drink)

1 teaspoon granulated sugar

1 small passion fruit or other fruit, peeled and chopped

1 ounce cachaca (sugar cane liqueur)

Ice

Combine sugar, fruit and cachaca in blender container. Blend until fruit is pureed. Serve over ice. Makes 1 serving.

CHA CHA CHA CHICKEN

1/4 cup lime juice

2 oranges, sliced

1/4 medium onion, sliced

1/2 bunch cilantro, chopped

1 tablespoon minced garlic

1/2 teaspoon ground cumin

6 boneless chicken breasts

Sauteed Vegetables

Combine lime juice, oranges, onion, cilantro, garlic and cumin in shallow pan. Add chicken breasts, turning to coat well with marinade. Cover and let stand in refrigerator at least 2 hours.

Remove chicken from marinade and grill over medium-low coals or under broiler 4 inches from source of heat, until golden on both sides, turning often and basting with marinade. Arrange on plate and top with Sauteed Vegetables. Makes 6 servings.

Variation: For Cha Cha Cha Bifstec Picado, substitute 6 (6-ounce) New York steaks for chicken.

Sauteed Vegetables

2 tablespoons olive oil

1/2 teaspoon minced garlic

1 sweet red pepper, cut into thin strips

1 green pepper, cut into thin strips

1 yellow pepper, cut into thin strips

2 oranges, sliced

Salt, pepper

Heat oil. Add garlic and cook until browned. Remove garlic and discard. Add red, green and yellow peppers and orange slices to pan. Saute until peppers are bright in color and tender-crisp. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Makes 6 servings.

FRIED PLANTAINS

(Platanos)

4 plantains

Corn oil for deep-frying

Salt

Peel and slice plantains diagonally into long thin slices. Heat oil until very hot. Drop plantains in oil and fry until golden brown. Remove immediately and sprinkle lightly with salt. Drain on paper towels. Serve as side dish vegetable with meat, fish or chicken. Makes 6 to 12 servings.

CRUNCHY SMALL GREEN BANANAS

(Tostones)

6 small green bananas (tostones)

Corn oil for deep-frying

Salt

Peel and cut bananas into 1/2-inch round slices. Heat oil until very hot. Drop banana slices into hot oil and cook until pale in color. Remove immediately and place on paper towels.

Press lightly with spatula to flatten. Sprinkle lightly with salt and return hot oil to refry until golden brown. Remove at once and drain on paper towels. Serve as side dish vegetable with meat, fish or chicken. Makes 6 to 8 servings.

CHA CHA CHA YUCCA FRIES

1 pound yucca roots

Salt

Corn oil for deep-frying

Peel and cut yucca roots in halves lengthwise. Cook in boiling salted water until just tender but not too soft. Cut like French fries into 2-inch lengths.

Heat oil until hot. Drop yucca strips in hot oil and fry until golden brown. Remove at once and drain on paper towels. Sprinkle lightly with salt. Serve like French fries with meat, fish or chicken. Makes 6 to 8 servings.

CHA CHA CHA MOLE

3 tomatoes, halved

1/2 onion

3 cloves garlic

2 serrano chiles

1/4 pound Mexican chocolate, chopped

1 teaspoon ground cumin

3 whole cloves

2 or 3 small hot chiles, seeds removed and finely chopped

1/2 to 1 cup chicken broth

Broil tomato halves, onion half, garlic and chiles until brown. Peel chiles. Place tomato-chile mixture in blender container with chocolate, cumin, cloves, chiles and broth. Blend until smooth.

Turn into saucepan and cook over low heat 15 minutes. Serve over any desired meat, such as grilled or poached chicken breasts, steak, pork or fish. Makes enough sauce for 4 to 6 servings.

PARRILLADA

(Argentine Barbecue)

Skirt steaks

Short ribs

Chorizos

Sweetbreads

Chimichuri

Arrange skirt steaks and short ribs (allowing 1 per person) at edge of barbecue grill to cook slowly, turning occasionally. When almost done, add chorizos and sweetbreads. To serve, place 1 skirt steak, 1 short rib, 1 sweetbread and 1 chorizo on each plate. Pass Chimichuri to drizzle on meats. Serve with wine, French bread and green salad, if desired.

Chimichuri

1/2 cup oil

1/4 cup wine vinegar

1 onion, chopped

1 teaspoon minced garlic

1/4 cup chopped parsley

1 teaspoon ground oregano

1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper

1 teaspoon black pepper

1 1/2 teaspoons salt

Combine oil, vinegar, onion, garlic, parsley, oregano, cayenne, pepper and salt. Shake in covered jar and serve with barbecued meats.

PERUVIAN ANTICHUCHOS

1 pound beef heart or beef sirloin

1/2 cup vinegar

1 clove garlic, minced

1/4 teaspoon ground cumin

1/4 teaspoon marjoram

1/4 teaspoon black pepper

1/4 teaspoon chili powder

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 sweet red pepper

1 green pepper

24 button mushrooms

Cut beef heart into 1/2-inch cubes and place in bowl. Mix vinegar, garlic, cumin, marjoram, pepper, chili powder and salt. Pour over meat. Cover and marinate in refrigerator overnight or as long as 24 hours.

Remove meat from marinade. Cut red and green peppers into 1/2-inch squares. Place meat on skewers, alternating with squares of red and green pepper. Top each skewer with button mushrooms.

Cook over coals or broil about 3 inches from source of heat 3 minutes on each side. If desired, use acorn squash, small pumpkin or grapefruit as holder, cutting off bottom to make secure stand. Pierce skewers into holder. Allow 1 or 2 skewers per serving. Makes 12 appetizer servings.

RINCON CHILENO CORN TAMALES

(Humitas)

12 ears corn

2 or 3 basil leaves or 3/4 teaspoon dried basil

2 tablespoons lard or butter

Paprika

1 onion, chopped

3/4 cup milk

Dash sugar

Salt

24 dried corn husks

Cut corn kernels from ears and place in blender with basil to puree or grind in grinder. Set aside.

Melt lard with paprika. Add onion and saute until golden brown. Add corn, milk and sugar and season to taste with salt. Bring to boil. Reduce heat. Cook, stirring constantly, 10 minutes or until thickened. Cool.

Soak husks in warm water until tender and pliable, about 30 minutes. Drain and pat dry. Trim 1 end of large, wide husks. Place 2 husks, cut ends facing each other and overlapping slightly, to form rectangular sheet. If husks are too narrow, widen sheet by adding more husks. Place 1/6 of corn mixture on center of each sheet of husks. Fold in sides, then fold over ends, envelope fashion. Tie with string or strips of husks.

Place tamales in deep saucepan. Cover with salted water. Bring to boil. Reduce heat. Cover and simmer 30 minutes. Remove tamales from pan. Drain on paper towels. To serve, untie and unwrap husks. Tamales may be eaten from husk or transferred to serving dish. Makes 6 tamales.

EL DORADO CORN CHOWDER

4 ounces salt pork, diced

1 small onion, diced

1/2 cup diced celery

1 1/2 cups cubed peeled potatoes

2 cups water

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon sugar

1/4 teaspoon black pepper

2 cups milk

2 cups fresh corn kernels or 1 (1-pound) can whole kernel corn

Chopped parsley or paprika, optional

Cook salt pork in large kettle until lightly browned and crisp. Add onion and celery and cook in pork drippings until tender, but not browned.

Add potatoes, water, salt, sugar and pepper. Cover and simmer until potato cubes are tender. Add milk and corn and bring to boil. Serve in warm bowls and sprinkle with parsley. Makes 4 to 6 servings.

GRILLED STUFFED PASILLAS

WITH TOMATILLO SALSA

4 large green pasilla chiles

Shrimp-Corn Stuffing

Oil

Tomatillo Salsa

Cilantro sprigs

Cut pasilla chiles around ridge of chile stem end to make cap. Remove seeds. Fill with Shrimp-Corn Stuffing almost to rim. Replace chile cap. Fasten tops with wood picks to keep filling from falling out.

Brush lightly with oil. Place on grill over coals and cook 6 minutes, turning chiles often until almost charred. Place Tomatillo Salsa in bottom of serving platter. Arrange chiles over salsa. Garnish with cilantro sprigs. Makes 4 servings.

Shrimp-Corn Stuffing

1/2 pound shrimp, coarsely chopped

3 green onions, minced

2 cloves garlic, minced

2 tablespoons olive oil

1/2 teaspoon ground cumin

4 ounces Jack cheese, grated

2 ounces blue cheese, crumbled

Kernels from 1 ear corn

1 tablespoon coarsely chopped cilantro

Saute shrimp, green onions and garlic in olive oil until shrimp turns pink. Cool, then add cumin, cheeses, corn and cilantro.

Tomatillo Salsa

1/2 cup chopped onions

2 cloves garlic, chopped

1 pound tomatillos, peeled and quartered

1 pound plum tomatoes, quartered

1/2 teaspoon ground cumin

1 teaspoon salt

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 sweet red pepper, roasted, peeled and seeded

1 green pepper, roasted, peeled and seeded

1/2 avocado, coarsely chopped

1 tablespoon coarsely chopped cilantro

Cook onions, garlic, tomatillos, tomatoes, cumin and salt in olive oil in saucepan about 15 to 20 minutes. Add red and green peppers and place mixture in food processor. Process, using metal blade until coarsely ground. Bring to room temperature, then add avocado and cilantro. Leftover salsa can be used on grilled or roasted meats. Makes 1 pint.