CHUTNEY

My desk dictionary dismisses chutney as “a relish made of fruits, spices and herbs.” Ha! Little do they know. Chutney is the ambrosia that turns a plain, unadulterated piece of broiled chicken into a glorious and memorable meal. It’s the sweet or spicy or pungent condiment that gives the perfect flavor lift to such bland foods as scrambled eggs, steamed rice with vegetables or simple seafood dishes. And it performs additional miracles when added to innocuous salad dressings or even to some batter breads.

If that sounds as though I am a chutney lover, so be it. I plead guilty. And to dismiss any condiment as varied and versatile as chutney as a mere “relish” is downright wicked in my admittedly prejudiced opinion.

Chutneys are flavor enhancers of East Indian origin. In general, Westerners tend to think of chutneys as a bottled chunky fruit mixture seasoned with a most unsubtle amount of ginger root and chiles. Technically, these products really aren’t true chutneys, according to Julie Sahni, Indian chef, cookbook author and teacher. Sahni says in her latest book, “Classic Indian Vegetarian and Grain Cooking” (William Morrow & Co.: $22.50), that the fruit and vegetable chutneys so popular in the Western world really are a form of pickle. “The difference between chutney and pickle (both of which may contain salt, vinegar, sugar, seasonings, spices and vegetables or fruits) is the texture. Chutney . . . can be in the form of a sauce, dip, thick pulpy spread or finely minced preserve, while a pickle contains clearly distinguishable pieces of vegetables or fruit,” she explains.

Semantics notwithstanding, the mixture Indians consider a pickle and we think of as a chutney is a condiment that fits nicely into today’s simple, unsauced and often unseasoned menus.

With a wide range of fruits and vegetables to choose from at the moment, this is an ideal time to bottle some chutneys, not only for personal use, but also for the inevitable small gifts needed at the holiday time. The preparation time needed and the actual cooking time it takes for most chutneys really isn’t as long as you might think. Nor do chutneys have to be prepared in huge quantities. Most of the recipes given here make less than a quart, although it would be an easy matter to double or even triple many of the recipes, if a larger quantity is desired.

If you prefer not to preserve chutney for future use, it will usually keep for about a week, and sometimes even longer if refrigerated in a covered container. How long it lasts depends on the amount of preservatives, such as vinegar or sugar, in the recipe. When bottling chutney for future use as gifts or personal enjoyment, do make sure it will keep properly by following the water bath method of canning once you have the chutney sealed in sterilized jars. You’ll find simple directions for water bath canning in the You Asked About . . . column on Page 2.

Some of the following chutneys are spicy hot, others are sweetly mild. Each has characteristics that make it ideal for specific uses. Because chutney is usually associated with curry more often than other foods, we chose to combine a mixed fruit chutney called, appropriately enough, Chutney for Curry, with a creamy golden curry sauce and serve it with plain lamb chops broiled to a medium-rare state. The chutney-curry sauce added just the right amount of zesty flavor to the delicate lamb without overpowering it.

To enhance broiled chicken, however, an unusual chutney made with dried figs, ginger root and raisins was used as a last-minute glaze. Because of the amount of sugar in the recipe the chutney was brushed on only about 10 minutes before the broiled chicken was done. That was long enough for the flavors to penetrate, yet not so long that the sugar could develop a bitter, burned taste.

Other suggestions for using some of these chutneys include mixing one with cream cheese and serving it with crackers as a quick--and very tasty--hors d’oeuvre. Or stir a heaping spoonful into some plain yogurt for a flavor-packed light lunch. For a more filling meal, spoon a dollop of chutney into fresh peach or pear halves and serve them with a curry-flavored mayonnaise for a refreshing main-dish fruit salad.

But first you have to make the chutney. The following recipes show how diverse the ingredients that go into chutneys can be. Also included is the recipe for the rich curry sauce that we liked with the broiled lamb chops. It is equally good with chicken, pork, hard-cooked eggs and some vegetable mixtures.

CURRY SAUCE WITH CHUTNEY

1/2 cup minced onion

3 tablespoons butter or margarine

3 tablespoons flour

1 tablespoon curry powder

1 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon sugar

1/4 teaspoon finely minced peeled ginger

1 cup coconut milk

1 cup milk

3/4 cup chutney

Cook onion in butter until tender. Add flour, curry powder, salt, sugar and ginger and blend well. Slowly add coconut milk and regular milk to onion mixture. Cook over low heat, stirring constantly, until sauce is smooth and thickened. Stir in chutney. Serve hot. Makes about 3 1/4 cups.

CHUTNEY FOR CURRY

5 cups cut fruits (apples, pears, peaches, candied fruit peel, etc.)

1 lemon, seeded and finely chopped

1 cup chopped dried apricots

2 cups brown sugar, packed

2 cups cider vinegar

1 1/2 cups raisins

1 clove garlic, minced

1/4 cup minced onion

1 1/2 teaspoons salt

1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper

4 ounces candied ginger, chopped

Combine cut fruits, peel, lemon, apricots, brown sugar, vinegar, raisins, garlic, onion salt, cayenne and ginger in large sauce pan. Simmer, uncovered, until fruit is tender but not mushy, about 1 1/2 hours. Stir occasionally with wooden spoon during cooking period. Ladle into hot sterilized pint jars, leaving 1/4 inch head space. Seal according to manufacturer’s directions. Process in boiling water bath 10 minutes. Makes about 3 pints.

Note: Fruits may be used in any proportion or amount. Select underripe pears, and do not peel them or apples, if used.

TOMATO PEAR CHUTNEY

3 1/2 cups chopped peeled tomatoes

3 cups chopped peeled firm pears

3 cups chopped peeled firm apples

1 cup chopped green pepper

1/2 cup chopped onion

1 1/2 teaspoon salt

1 cup raisins

1 teaspoon dry mustard

1/2 cup vinegar

3/4 cup honey

Combine tomatoes, pears, apples, green pepper, onion, salt, raisins, mustard and vinegar in large enamelware or stainless steel saucepan. Bring to rolling boil, reduce heat and simmer 30 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add honey and mix well. Simmer 30 minutes longer or until thickened, stirring often. Ladle boiling chutney into hot sterilized 1/2-pint or pint jars, leaving about 1/4 inch head space. Seal according to manufacturer’s directions. Process in boiling water bath 10 minutes. Store away from light in cool place. Makes about 2 1/2 pints.

MELON CHUTNEY

4 quarts finely chopped peeled cantaloupe or other melons

1 cup raisins

1 cup chopped onions

1 clove garlic, minced

2 to 3 cups brown sugar, packed

5 cups vinegar

1/4 cup mustard seeds

2 tablespoons ground ginger

2 teaspoons salt

1 small jalapeno chile, stem removed

Combine cantaloupe, raisins, onions, garlic, brown sugar, vinegar, mustard seeds, ginger, salt and chile in heavy saucepan. Cook, stirring frequently, until thick, about 40 minutes. Remove jalapeno from mixture and discard. Ladle boiling chutney into hot sterilized pint jars, leaving about 1/4 inch head space. Seal according to manufacturer’s directions. Process in boiling water bath 10 minutes. Makes about 6 pints.

CARROT CHUTNEY

3 cups carrots, cut julienne

Water

1 cup raisins

2 cups brown sugar, packed

1 cup granulated sugar

1 cup vinegar

1 lemon, thinly sliced

1 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon ground cloves

1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg

1/2 teaspoon ground ginger

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

Parboil carrots in water to cover just until tender. Reserve 2 cups cooking liquid. Combine reserved liquid, carrots, raisins, brown sugar, granulated sugar, vinegar, lemon slices, salt, cloves, nutmeg, ginger and cinnamon in heavy saucepan. Cook over low heat, stirring occasionally, until mixture thickens, about 45 to 50 minutes. Ladle into hot sterilized 1/2 pint or pint jars, leaving about 1/4 inch head space. Seal according to manufacturer’s directions. Process in boiling water bath 10 minutes. Makes about 1 1/2 pints.

MOLASSES-APPLE CHUTNEY

3 cups peeled tart apples

1/2 cup water

1/4 cup molasses

2 tablespoons vinegar

1 teaspoon curry powder

1/4 teaspoon ground ginger

1 cup raisins

Place apples in heavy saucepan and add water and molasses. Blend vinegar, curry powder and ginger and stir into apples. Add raisins, cover and bring mixture to boil. Reduce heat, remove cover and simmer gently until apples are tender, about 15 minutes. Stir occasionally. Ladle chutney into hot sterilized 1/2 pints or pint jars and seal according to manufacturer’s directions. Process in boiling water bath 10 minutes. Makes about 1 1/2 pints.

PINEAPPLE CHUTNEY

1 large pineapple

1/4 cup unsalted butter or margarine

1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes

1/2 teaspoon cumin seeds

Dash salt

1 teaspoon turmeric

Dash ground ginger

3/4 cup sugar

Grated peel of 1 lemon

Peel and core pineapple. Cut edible flesh into 1/2-inch cubes. Melt butter and stir in red pepper flakes and cumin. Add pineapple chunks, salt, turmeric and ginger. Cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until liquid forms. Cover, reduce heat and simmer mixture 1 hour, stirring occasionally. Add sugar and simmer about 10 minutes longer, uncovered, until liquid in mixture becomes syrupy. Ladle into hot sterilized 1/2 pint or pint jars, leaving about 1/4 inch head space. Seal according to manufacturer’s directions. Process in boiling water bath 10 minutes. Makes about 2 pints.

GINGERED FIG-RAISIN CHUTNEY

2 cups chopped dried figs

2 cups water

1 cup finely chopped onions

Sugar

1 1/2 cups white vinegar

1 tablespoon peeled chopped ginger

1 teaspoon curry powder

1 stick cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon salt

2 cups golden raisins

Combine figs, water, onions and 1/4 cup sugar in heavy saucepan. Bring to boil, reduce heat and simmer until liquid is absorbed, about 20 to 25 minutes. Mash figs a bit with back of spoon.

In separate sauce pan combine vinegar, ginger, 2/3 cup sugar, curry powder, cinnamon stick and salt. Simmer 5 minutes. Add raisins, remove from heat and let stand 5 minutes. Discard cinnamon stick and stir in fig mixture. Add more sugar, if desired. Cook and stir over medium heat until mixture is heated through and thickens. Ladle into hot sterilized pint jars, leaving about 1/4 inch head space. Seal according to manufacturer’s directions. Process in boiling water bath 10 minutes. Makes about 2 pints.

HAWAIIAN PAPAYA CHUTNEY

1 cup white vinegar

1 3/4 cups brown sugar, packed

1 medium onion, chopped

2 limes or lemons, thinly sliced

1 cloved garlic, mashed

1 cup golden raisins

2 large tomatoes, peeled and coarsely chopped

1 green pepper, chopped

1/2 cup preserved ginger, cut in strips

1/2 cup whole blanched almonds

1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper

1 1/2 teaspoons salt

1 cup dry white wine

3 very firm papayas, peeled and cubed

2 cups pineapple cubes

Combine vinegar, brown sugar, onion, limes, garlic, raisins, tomatoes, green pepper, ginger, almonds, cayenne, salt and white wine in large heavy kettle. Cook over low heat about 1 hour, stirring frequently, until liquid is clear and syrupy. Add more wine or water, if needed, to prevent sticking. Add papayas and pineapple. Continue cooking about 15 minutes or until fruit is tender. Ladle mixture into hot sterilized pint jars, leaving about 1/4 inch head space. Seal according to manufacturer’s directions. Process in boiling water bath 10 minutes for pints. Makes about 4 pints.