coffee : Brewing the ideal cup of coffee involves carefully combining many different components to satisfy personal taste for flavor, body, aroma and acidity.

Little did I know when I bought “the coffee machine to end all coffee machines” that it would practically require going back for an engineering degree to regain my reputation. Unlike the poor woman in those television commercials, people had regularly commented favorably on my coffee.

I had probably become a bit smug. But after all, I began grinding my own beans long before it was in vogue and through experimenting with various kinds had developed a signature blend.

Although I had opted for the convenience of an electric filter drip coffee maker over the purist’s cone and filter, transferring the freshly brewed coffee to a thermos-style carafe kept it from continuing to heat on the warming pad. The end product was something I was proud to serve.

Then out of the blue all sorts of things began happening. I chipped the top of my coffee bean grinder. Well, so what--it still worked. Then I broke the glass pot to the coffee maker. Still unscathed, I bought another made of metal.

All this should have told me something, but the final blow came only days later when the coffee maker switch gave out completely. That was the last straw--time to buy a new machine.

It had been a while since I shopped for a coffee maker, and the sheer number available was a bit overwhelming. After perusing the displays for some time I recalled a friend had recently raved about a model that did absolutely everything--programmed the start time, ground the beans and made the coffee. It even had a built-in filter so you didn’t need the paper variety. When I spied it with a sale tag, I was hooked.

Home I went and just about had to pick my spouse up off the floor when he got a look at the sales receipt. Perhaps he was in shock, but he did listen as I pointed out all the features and rationalized how much time it would save. Eventually .

The instruction book was really very clear. It was easy to follow step by step and get the digital clock working, run the first pot of water through the system and set the automatic timer. After measuring the suggested amount of coffee beans into the grinder and filling the water reservoir, I fell asleep that night believing we would wake in the morning to freshly brewed, flavorful coffee.

In truth, we woke to an unbelievably loud whirring noise. (Mind you we live in a two-story house and our bedroom is on an entirely different floor than the kitchen.) Seconds later, peace once again fell over the house, followed by the smell of freshly brewed coffee.

Off to the kitchen to pour it ceremoniously into the carafe. Triumphantly I presented coffee and two cups for the taste test. It totally failed--it was so strong--it was undrinkable. Thus began a saga to produce a satisfactory pot of coffee.

No doubt there are many who wonder why anyone would bother to go to so much trouble--after all, a cup of coffee is a cup of coffee, right? Make it from instant or buy a can of ground. Not to those of us who enjoy the subtle flavors of different beans, the aroma when they’re freshly ground and the taste when it is brewed correctly. These were the goals that spurred me on.

By decreasing the amount of beans, I eventually managed to make four decent cups of coffee. But when I tried for six cups, it was back to the drawing board. It was the same story when I attempted a full pot of coffee. Apparently we enjoy our coffee milder than average, because I used less than what the manufacturer recommended in each case. It required keeping copious notes on the amount of beans used in relation to water.

All went well for awhile, until I made the mistake of taking a closer look at the grounds. They were not as fine as those produced with our previous grinder, so it seemed advisable to change the number of seconds for milling. The standard was 12; I upped it to 20.

Logic told me that grinding the coffee finer would increase the flavor extracted when the water came in contact with the ground beans. But just how fine should it be ground? Using the same amount of beans and water just determined by trial to be correct, once again the coffee turned out too strong. Was it possible to use still fewer beans for the same amount of coffee?

Realizing help was needed, I swallowed what pride was left and sought out some experts. It was many conversations and resource books later that I began to fully comprehend the many components that combine to produce good coffee. It also became evident that a lot of experimentation is the norm--actually viewed by many as a challenge.

A good place to begin the quest for a good cup of coffee is with an explanation of coffee beans. The two most common types of beans on the market are arabica and robusta. Varieties of both types are raised in a belt that extends around the world, about 20 degrees on either side of the Equator. Most coffee aficionados consider the arabica superior in quality and flavor.

As with all agricultural crops, soil and weather play an important part in not only the size of the yield, but the flavor of coffee beans. One variety of bean can change considerably over time, or even within a single year.

These same conditions affect the price of coffee. A recent drought in Brazil reduced the world supply and caused prices to rise in January and February of this year, according to Chuck Shell, district sales manager for Coffee Bean International. Prices dropped somewhat throughout the spring and summer, but Shell expects a strong supply of gourmet beans and stable prices through the rest of this year.

A different view is held by Herbert B. Hyman, board chairman of International Coffee & Tea Inc. He predicts the supply of fancy coffee will go down, thus raising the average cost of a pound as much as 50 cents to 75 cents during the next six months. “I pray that I’m wrong,” Hyman added.

The length of time the beans are roasted is another critical factor affecting the final flavor obtained from the harvested beans--medium roasting produces a milder flavor, darker (longer) roasting a stronger flavor. American (also called Full City) and Continental (also called Vienna) are examples of medium roasts. Espresso, Italian, French and Turkish are dark roasts.

Coffee speciality stores usually have a list and description of the coffees they stock. Sometimes names are taken from the bean, other times from the way the beans are roasted. The best way to learn which varieties you enjoy is to purchase small amounts of those that sound appealing and give them a try. Some coffee stores offer samples for tasting.

Often, coffee blends are available. Mocha-Java is a popular example; stores may also develop a house blend. One of these may be to your liking, or once familiar with different beans you may decide to design your own coffee blend.

After beans are purchased, they should be stored in a closed container in the freezer to retain their flavor. Although the beans don’t actually freeze, this helps to retain their freshness longer.

The next step is grinding the beans. Our new coffee machine has what is termed an electric blade grinder that actually slices the beans into long, flat-faceted fragments. It seems to do an adequate job, although from research I’ve learned the mills that grind beans produce grounds that are more uniform, expose more surface and brew faster and stronger.

How fine to grind the beans is determined mostly by the type of coffee maker used for brewing:

Method--Type of Grind

Filter--Very Fine

Espresso--Fine

Drip--Fine

Vacuum--Fine

Percolator--Medium

Steeped--Medium

The key word is mostly, because personal preference can also come into play. Also, what one person terms fine may differ from another or the manufacturer.

The following is a general guide to the number of seconds used to produce each grind:

Grind--Seconds

Coarse--6

Medium--10

Fine--15

Very fine--30

A few words of caution about grinding beans. The finer grinds expose more surface to the air and lose flavor quickly. Beans ground too fine can clog the filter and cause the water to overflow. There is also a risk the coffee will be bitter because of overextraction.

The water used for brewing also influences the flavor. Many people choose to use the purified bottled variety rather than tap water. Artificially softened water should not be used because the chemical additives will flatten the coffee taste. Whatever water is selected for brewing, it should be freshly drawn and cold. The job of the coffee maker is to bring this to a boil, then facilitate contact with the grounds.

If the coffee maker is working properly, the right grind of beans used and the proportion of water correct, the end result should be a delicious pot of coffee. Experts use four attributes to assess the quality of coffee: aroma, acidity, body and flavor. Aroma and flavor are easy to understand. Acidity refers to the tartness or snap, whereas body is the feeling of heaviness or thickness on the palate.

Even using these attributes as a guide, individual taste is still a major factor in evaluating a good cup of coffee. What is delicious to one person may not be at all pleasing to another. The type of beans, grind and proportion of water all need to be adjusted to suit your taste and a machine’s capabilities--it takes time and experimentation.

This story does have a happy ending. There’s good coffee once again being served in our home. In addition to enjoying coffee as a beverage, the flavorful brew can be used to enhance a variety of recipes.

ESPRESSO GRANITE

1/4 cup sugar

3 tablespoons instant espresso coffee

2 cups boiling water

Lemon peel

Combine sugar and espresso powder. Add water, stirring to dissolve. Pour into 1 or 2 ice cube trays with dividers removed. Freeze until very firm, stirring frequently.

To serve, remove from freezer and let stand at room temperature just until mixture can be broken up with fork. Spoon into dessert glasses and garnish with lemon peel. Makes 4 to 6 servings.

COFFEE ICE CREAM BONBONS

3 tablespoons instant espresso coffee powder

3/4 cup sugar

2 tablespoons cornstarch

1/4 teaspoon salt

2 cups milk

2 eggs

4 cups whipping cream

1 1/2 tablespoons vanilla

2 (7.25-ounce) bottles chocolate fudge hard shell topping

Combine coffee powder, sugar, cornstarch, salt and milk in saucepan. Cook, stirring constantly, until mixture thickens.

Beat eggs. Slowly add small amount of hot mixture to eggs while continuing to beat. Add eggs to hot mixture in saucepan. Continue to cook, stirring, 2 minutes. Cool.

Add whipping cream and vanilla to cooled mixture. Churn-freeze according to manufacturer’s directions. Freeze until firm.

Place wire rack on jellyroll pan. Using 1 1/4-inch scoop, form 36 ice cream mounds. Flatten bottom of each and place on wire rack. Freeze until firm.

Remove wire rack from jellyroll pan and place over wax paper. Turn hard shell topping bottles upside down and shake well. Carefully drizzle topping over bonbons, entirely covering tops and sides. Spoon excess topping from wax paper and reuse.

Replace wire rack on jellyroll pan and return bonbons to freezer if topping is not completely hardened. Transfer completed bonbons to covered freezer container. Makes about 3 dozen bonbons.

Note: Commercially produced coffee ice cream may be substituted, if desired. Ice cream recipe makes 1/2 gallon. Serve remaining as desired.

BRAZILIAN COFFEE-CHOCOLATE

2 ounces unsweetened chocolate

3 tablespoons sugar

1 cup very strong hot coffee

3 cups milk

1 quart coffee or chocolate ice cream

Whipped cream

Melt chocolate in top of double boiler over hot water. Add sugar and blend well. Slowly stir in coffee.

Scald milk, then combine with coffee mixture. Cook over hot water 10 minutes. Remove from heat and beat with rotary beater until frothy. Chill thoroughly.

Serve in tall glasses with large scoop of ice cream. Garnish with whipped cream. Makes 5 to 6 servings.

SOUTHWESTERN CHILI

4 to 5 dried California chiles

3 pounds coarsely ground beef

2 onions, chopped

3 to 4 cloves garlic, minced

1 (15-ounce) can tomato sauce

1 cup coffee

1 teaspoon hot pepper sauce

3 to 3 1/2 tablespoons chili powder

4 teaspoons crushed oregano

1 1/4 teaspoons ground cumin

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon cayenne pepper

1 teaspoon paprika

12 small dried red chiles (japones, pico de parjaro or others)

Cook California chiles in boiling water until softened. Remove stems, seeds and veins. Scrape pulp from skins with knife, chop fine and set aside.

Saute ground beef, onions and garlic in Dutch oven until meat is browned. Add tomato sauce, coffee, hot pepper sauce, chili powder, oregano, cumin, salt, cayenne, paprika and reserved chile pulp.

Break small red chiles apart. Discard seeds, then crumble chiles and add to chili mixture. Cover and simmer 1 hour 15 minutes. Uncover and continue cooking 30 minutes or until chili is thickened. Makes 8 to 12 servings.

RED-EYE GRAVY

Drippings from baked country-smoked ham

1/2 cup hot coffee

Hot grits, biscuits or rice

Remove most of fat from drippings, using spoon or bulb baster. Heat drippings, add coffee and bring to boil, scraping any brown bits from pan. Simmer about 2 minutes. Serve with grits, biscuits or rice. Makes 4 servings.

VIKTOR BENES HAZELNUT MOCHA TORTE

4 eggs

3/4 cup granulated sugar

2 cups finely ground hazelnuts

1 cup graham crackers crumbs

1/2 cup sifted cake flour

1 tablespoon instant coffee powder

1 teaspoon boiling water

2 cups whipping cream

1/4 cup powdered sugar

Beat eggs and sugar until almost stiff. Blend together 1 1/2 cups ground hazelnuts, graham cracker crumbs and cake flour. Fold into egg-sugar mixture. Pour into 2 greased, parchment-lined, 8-inch round baking pans. (Mixture should not be more than 1 inch deep.)

Bake at 375 degrees 15 minutes or until center is set and light golden brown. Cool, then split each layer in half horizontally.

Combine coffee with water to make thick paste. Whip cream, powdered sugar and coffee paste until stiff. Spread mixture on each cake layer. Stack and frost with same cream. Sprinkle sides of cake with remaining 1/2 cup ground hazelnuts. Place remaining cream in pastry bag with decorative tip and make crisscross pattern on top and rosettes around outer edge of cake. Makes 12 to 16 servings.

COFFEE TOFFEE PIE

2 ounces unsweetened chocolate

1/2 package pie crust mix

1/4 cup light brown sugar, packed

3/4 cup finely chopped walnuts

1 tablespoon water

1 teaspoon vanilla

1/2 cup butter or margarine, softened

3/4 cup granulated sugar

Instant coffee powder

2 eggs

2 cups whipping cream

1/2 cup powdered sugar

Chocolate curls

Grate 1 ounce chocolate. Combine with pie crust mix, brown sugar and walnuts. Add water and vanilla and mix with fork until well blended.

Turn dough into well-greased 9-inch pie plate and press firmly onto bottom and sides. Bake at 375 degrees 15 minutes. Cool on wire rack.

Melt remaining 1 ounce chocolate and cool. Place butter in small mixing bowl and beat until creamy. Gradually add granulated sugar and beat until light and fluffy. Blend in cooled melted chocolate and 2 teaspoons coffee powder. Add 1 egg and beat 5 minutes. Add remaining egg and beat 5 minutes longer. Turn filling into baked pie shell, cover and refrigerate overnight.

Combine whipping cream, 2 tablespoons coffee powder and powdered sugar in bowl. Cover and refrigerate 1 hour. Beat cream until stiff. Place in pastry bag with decorator tip and pipe onto pie in desired design. Garnish with chocolate curls. Refrigerate pie at least 2 hours before serving. Makes 8 servings.

BLACK RUSSIAN BREAD

4 cups rye flour

3 cups all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon sugar

2 teaspoons salt

2 cups whole-bran cereal

2 tablespoons caraway seeds, crushed

2 teaspoons instant coffee powder

2 teaspoons onion powder

1/2 teaspoon fennel seeds, crushed

2 packages dry yeast

3 cups water

1/4 cup vinegar

1/4 cup dark molasses

1 ounce unsweetened chocolate

1/4 cup butter or margarine

1 teaspoon cornstarch

Combine rye and all-purpose flours. In large bowl, thoroughly mix 2 1/3 cups flour mixture, sugar, salt, cereal, caraway seeds, coffee and onion powders, fennel seeds and yeast.

Combine 2 1/2 cups water, vinegar, molasses, chocolate and butter in saucepan. Heat over low heat until liquids are very warm (120 to 130 degrees). Butter and chocolate do not need to melt.

Gradually add liquid to flour-herb-yeast mixture and beat 2 minutes at medium speed of electric mixer, scraping bowl occasionally. Add 1/2 cup remaining flour mixture. Beat at high speed 2 minutes.

Stir in enough remaining flour mixture to make soft dough. Turn out onto lightly floured board. Cover and let rest 15 minutes.

Knead dough until smooth and elastic, about 10 to 15 minutes. Dough may be sticky. Place in greased bowl, turning to grease top. Cover and let rise in warm place free from drafts until doubled, about 1 hour.

Punch dough down and turn out onto lightly floured board. Divide in half. Shape each half into ball about 5 inches in diameter. Place each ball in center of greased 8-inch round cake pan. Cover and let rise in warm place free from drafts until doubled, about 1 hour.

Bake at 350 degrees 45 to 50 minutes. Combine cornstarch with remaining 1/2 cup cold water and brush mixture over top of loaves. Return bread to oven and bake 2 to 3 minutes longer until glaze is set. Remove from pans and cool on wire racks. Makes 2 round loaves.

CHOCOLATE-BRANDY MOUSSE

4 ounces semisweet chocolate

5 egg yolks

1/3 cup sugar

1 tablespoon coffee brandy

1 cup whipping cream

1 teaspoon vanilla

Chocolate shavings

Melt chocolate in top of double boiler over hot water. Beat egg yolks with sugar until light and smooth. Slowly pour in chocolate, beating mixture well until blended. Stir in brandy.

Whip cream with vanilla until stiff. Slowly fold into chocolate mixture. Chill.

Spoon into dessert goblets and garnish with chocolate shavings. Makes 6 to 8 servings.

Note: If marbled effect is preferred, only partially fold whipped cream into chocolate mixture.