Served whole or in parts, duckling is a versatile holiday alternative to chicken and turkey : Duckling for the Holidays

In the past, the duckling on the holiday table usually came from the depths of the supermarket frozen food bin, beside the rock-hard Cornish game hens and stacked turkeys.

But things are looking up for duck.

In recent years, farmers have considered the market profitable enough to provide fresh ducklings the year-round.

Why the change of heart?

Until recently, the annual consumption of duckling was less than half a pound per capita, compared with 110 pounds per capita for beef and 40 pounds per capita for chicken. However, America’s duckling industry has grown by more than 50% within the last few years, producing more than 24 million ducklings annually today, compared with 16 million in 1980. Of those, 25% are today sold fresh, compared with 13% in 1980.

“People today have a stronger feeling that fresh is better,” said Jack Clune, national sales manager of Concord Farms in North Carolina, which sells fresh white Pekin duckling (also known as Long Island duck).

Duckling parts are also commercially sold to food service institutions, including restaurants, but a small percentage reaches the retail trade in the form of fresh tray packs sold at the meat department counters in supermarkets throughout the country. The Long Island duckling being farmed today comes not only from the Carolinas and New York State, their original home, but also from Sonoma County in California.

On the West Coast, an influx of French and Italian professional chefs created a demand for fresh duck, especially large, full-breasted varieties that could be presented sliced on a plate. The demand prompted boutique farmers to try their hands in the breeding and introduction of the large-size Moulard, a superior species created by crossing the Pekin and Muscovy ducks. The residual benefits have, since, filtered to the consumer.

Today, large-breasted Moulards are available fresh the year-round. Higher-priced fresh or frozen boneless breasts weigh from six ounces to 18 ounces and range in price from $6.25 to $7.99 per pound, about half the price of fillet of beef or veal cutlets. Actually, it is a good buy for solid meat. Whole Pekin duckling is also available in fresh form at about $1.45 per pound at some specialty markets.

Duckling, incidentally, was first domesticated in Egypt, but traveled to China, where it became a staple for thousands of years before reaching Colonial America.

According to the National Duckling Council, duckling requires special care and feeding but has a short life span--about 49 days. Within that brief period, the duckling consumes about 20 pounds of feed and reaches a total weight of six to seven pounds at its prime when the meat is considered most tender. Dressed weight ranges from 3 1/2 to 5 1/2 pounds.

Although storing and cooking methods vary widely (as you will note in the recipes given here), duckling producers, such as Concord Farms, suggests thawing frozen duck 24 hours in the original package inside the refrigerator, or for quick thawing, placing the packaged duckling into a pan of cold water.

After the duckling is completely thawed, remove from the package, take the giblets and neck from the cavity and rinse with water inside and out. Drain and dry with paper towels, then gently scratch a fork over the skin of the duckling, so the duckling will baste itself during cooking. Be careful the fork tines do not penetrate through the skin into the meat since it will cause the duckling to lose its natural juices and become dry.

After sprinkling with desired seasonings, the duck is ready to cook. For roasting on a rack or trivet, place breast side up in a roasting pan. Roast, uncovered, at 350 degrees for 30 to 35 minutes per pound or until crisp.

Because there is no single desirable cooking method, it may be necessary for the cook to experiment before arriving at a suitable method.

Whole ducks are wonderful roasted with some liquid to keep the meat moist and savory, as the recipe given here suggests. The recipe was inspired by the duck dinner eaten at Michel Pasquet, a charming one-star restaurant in Paris last summer.

It was duck for two, brought to the table whole on a plank, where it was carved roughly, then passed to the waiter to finish carving. The unusual, but efficient carving procedure is described in the photographs shown on Page 10. The carving requires using only the duck breast and legs, which are boned. The meat is served sliced with the sauce in which it cooked.

The ducks, cooked with olives, cepes and shallots in a richly browned duck sauce, were done to a perfect medium, which, by French standards, is overdone. “Medium?” the waiter had asked, no doubt having learned to understand the American distaste for duck on the rare side.

Duck breasts alone are ideal for grilling, roasting or stir-frying to serve with traditional or exotic sauces as you would whole duck. Concord Farms recommends the direct heating method with coals. Arrange 30 to 40 hot charcoal briquets in a layer over the fire bowl of the grill. Place the grilling rack five to six inches above the coals. Then place the duckling parts, skin-side down, over the coals. Cover the grill, leaving drafts open. If the grilling unit does not have a hood, make one from heavy foil. Baste the duckling each time the parts are turned. Cook, skin-side down, for 30 minutes, then turn every 15 minutes thereafter. The suggested cooking time for quarters or halves is 60 to 90 minutes; or 60 to 75 minutes for whole or boned breasts.

Duck breasts also lend themselves to sauteing and stir-frying in minutes if thinly sliced or if small pieces are used. We give a Chinese recipe for stir-fried duckling with chiles and fermented black beans.

Hosts planning duckling dinners for the holiday season will enjoy a group of recipes in which traditional sauces such as currant sauce, orange sauce and cranberry sauce are part of the recipe.

For those anxious to use the barbecue grill, there is a recipe for barbecued duckling using lemon and bottled steak sauce, a trick used by chefs (this one came from a famous chef) to enhance flavors simply. We’ve also included a very simple duckling a l’orange for the novice cook.

Duckling menus are highly flexible. A spit-roasted or plain roasted duck is especially good with potatoes au gratin. Saucy duckling would be better with small new potatoes plainly boiled, buttered and parsleyed. Wild rice is wonderful with wild duck as well as some saucy duck dishes because of its dryness. Also try plain rice or noodles tossed with slightly browned butter. A tossed green salad with marinated mushrooms, haricots verts or green, red and yellow peppers added, or an artichoke vinaigrette appetizer, would be a good preliminary to the meal. A chocolate souffle or pie or any kind of fruit tart would be a fitting finale to the meal.

We’ve added a few recipes to accompany your duck dinner as served to us last summer at Michel Pasquet restaurant in Paris. The recipes include a salmon tart using a layer of puff pastry so thin that it almost crackled. It was spread with a seasoned mixture of cream cheese and a layer of thinly sliced smoked salmon, which was dolloped with caviar. We give instructions for both the puff pastry shell and filo dough, which also works well. A ginger-juniper berry sorbet would be a nice touch before, during or after the duck is served. A tart that is both souffle and chocolate pie was an unexpected treat as a finale to our Parisian dinner. DUCK WITH GREEN OLIVES, CEPES AND SHALLOTS

2 (4 1/2- to 5-pound) ducklings

Salt, pepper

3 tablespoons applejack liqueur, warmed and flamed, or apple juice

1/2 pound bacon, chopped, or salt pork, diced

4 shallots, chopped

3 1/2 cups white wine

1/2 cup chicken broth

Pepper

1/4 cup chopped parsley, rosemary, sage, bay leaf, and peppercorns tied in cheesecloth

1/4 pound cepes, sliced, or 1 (7/8-ounce) box porcini mushrooms

1/2 cup green olives

3 tablespoons flour

2 tablespoons butter

1 (7-ounce) can foie gras

Rinse ducklings and pat dry. Sprinkle with salt and pepper inside and out. Place in large casserole or roasting pan. Bake at 450 degrees 15 minutes until sizzling.

Remove ducklings from oven. Heat applejack liqueur in small saucepan and pour over ducklings. Ignite. Let flames die down.

Saute bacon until browned. Add shallots and saute until shallots are tender. Pour off excess fat. Add wine and chicken broth and continue to cook, stirring, until sauce is reduced and slightly thickened, about 15 minutes. Add freshly ground pepper to taste and herbs tied in cheesecloth. Add to casserole.

Reduce oven heat to 350 degrees. Pour wine mixture over ducks. Cover and bake 1 hour longer. Stir in mushrooms and olives and bake, uncovered, 20 minutes longer or until tender. Remove from oven. Remove ducklings and set aside.

Mix flour and butter and stir with foie gras into duckling sauce in casserole until sauce is shiny and thickened. There will be about 3 cups sauce. Skim off fat.

Serve ducklings whole to carve at table. Remove duckling legs and breast. Slice breasts and legs. Serve slices with olive-mushroom sauce. Makes 4 to 8 servings. CURRANT-GLAZED DUCKLING

1 (4 1/2- to 5-pound) duckling

3/4 teaspoon salt

1 1/2 cups diced celery

1/4 cup butter or margarine

2 cups chopped, peeled apples

2 cups bread cubes

1/2 cup chopped walnuts

2 tablespoons brown sugar

Currant Sauce

Wash and dry duckling with paper towels. Sprinkle skin with 1/2 teaspoon salt. Cook celery in butter until tender. Add apples, bread cubes, walnuts, brown sugar and remaining 1/4 teaspoon salt. Mix well.

Fill neck and body cavities loosely with stuffing. Skewer neck skin to back. Cover opening of body cavity with foil. Place bird on rack in shallow roasting pan. Bake at 325 degrees until tender, about 2 to 2 1/2 hours, basting with Currant Sauce during last 30 minutes. Serve duckling with remaining sauce. Makes 3 to 4 servings. Currant Sauce

1 cup currant jelly

1/4 cup red wine vinegar

4 whole cloves

1 (3-inch) stick cinnamon

Combine jelly, vinegar, cloves and cinnamon in saucepan. Bring to boil, reduce heat and simmer 3 minutes. Discard cinnamon and cloves. Makes 1 cup. DANISH DUCKING WITH PRUNES AND APPLES

1 (4- to 5-pound) duckling

Coarse salt

3 apples, peeled and coarsely chopped

1 (1-pound 9-ounce) jar prunes, drained

1/2 orange

Rub inside of duck with coarse salt. Combine apples and prunes and stuff duck with as much mixture as possible. Close cavity. Place duck, breast-side down, in roasting pan and cook at 325 degrees 2 1/2 hours or until tender. After 10 minutes of cooking, squeeze juice of orange over duck and baste with drippings every 10 to 15 minutes. Makes 3 to 4 servings. SHERRIED DUCK BREASTS

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

4 (8-ounce) duckling breast halves, skins removed

1/2 cup dry Sherry or Madeira

1 cup whipping cream

Salt, pepper

Chopped parsley

Melt butter in large skillet over medium heat. Add duck breasts and saute 2 minutes on each side. Reduce heat, cover and cook 4 minutes longer for rare, or longer for medium or well-done, depending on desired doneness. Transfer breasts to serving platter. Cover and keep warm.

Add Sherry to skillet. Cook over high heat 1 minute, stirring with wooden spoon to scrape up any brown bits stuck to bottom of pan. Add cream and continue to cook over high heat, stirring occasionally, until sauce is reduced by half and coats back of spoon. Add salt and pepper to taste. Pour sauce over breasts. Garnish with parsley. Makes 4 servings. DUCK WITH BLACK BEANS AND CHILI SAUCE

4 (8-ounce) duck breasts

1/4 cup black beans, rinsed and minced

4 teaspoons ginger root, minced

4 cloves garlic, minced

2 tablespoons dark soy sauce

1/4 cup dry white wine

4 teaspoons bottled chili paste with garlic

2 tablespoons cornstarch

1/2 cup cold water

2 tablespoons oil

1/2 teaspoon salt

Cut duck meat into thin slices. Meat can be partially frozen, if desired, to make it easier to slice thin.

Combine minced beans, ginger and garlic. Set aside. Combine soy sauce, wine and chili paste and set aside.

Combine cornstarch and water until smooth. Set aside.

Heat oil in wok over high heat until smoky hot. Add salt, reserved bean mixture and duck meat. Stir-fry 2 to 3 minutes or until meat starts to curl at edges and changes color. Add soy sauce mixture. Add 2 to 4 tablespoons water if mixture is dry. Stir-fry about 1 to 2 minutes longer or until meat is no longer pink. Add enough cornstarch mixture to thicken sauce. Serve with hot cooked rice, if desired. BARBECUED DUCKLING

2 ducklings

Lemon juice

Salt, pepper

1/2 cup honey

2 tablespoons bottled steak sauce

Split ducklings and rub each portion with lemon juice. Salt and pepper cut sides. Broil, skin side up, over medium-hot coals about 15 minutes, using drip pan underneath to catch drippings. Combine honey and steak sauce and continue cooking, basting and turning ducklings until meat is fork tender, about 1 hour. Makes 4 servings. DUCKLING QUARTERS WITH CRANBERRY-ORANGE SAUCE

1 (4 1/2-to 5-pound) duckling, quartered

Salt

Cranberry-Orange Sauce

Wash, drain and dry duckling quarters or breasts. Sprinkle with salt. Arrange quarters or breasts, skin side up, on rack in shallow roasting pan. Bake at 325 degrees 2 hours for quarters or 1 hour for breasts until meat is tender. Serve with Cranberry-Orange Sauce and hot cooked rice, if desired. Makes 2 to 4 servings. Cranberry-Orange Sauce

2 tablespoons cornstarch

1/2 cup water

1 cup sugar

3/4 cup orange juice

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon vinegar

2 cups washed fresh or frozen whole cranberries

3/4 cup orange sections

1 tablespoon grated orange peel

Combine cornstarch and 1/4 cup water. Mix well. Combine sugar, orange juice, remaining 1/4 cup water, salt and cornstarch mixture. Bring to boil. Cook until thickened, stirring constantly.

Stir in vinegar. Add cranberries. Cook until skins pop. Add orange sections and orange peel. Makes about 3 cups. HOLIDAY ROAST DUCKS

2 (4 1/2- to 5-pound) ducklings

1 cup chopped celery

1/4 cup chopped onion

1/4 cup butter or margarine

4 cups crumbled corn bread

1/2 cup chopped pecans

Salt, pepper

Honey Glaze

Poached or canned pears, apricots or peaches

Thaw ducklings if frozen. Rinse and pat dry. Cook celery and onion in butter until onion is tender but not brown.

Add corn bread, pecans, salt and pepper to taste and 1/4 cup Honey Glaze or 2 tablespoons each of honey and water. Toss lightly.

Stuff duckling cavities loosely and roast at 350 degrees about 2 hours or until meat on drumstick is tender, brushing often with Honey Glaze several times during last 30 minutes of cooking. Garnish with poached pears, apricots or peaches. Makes 4 to 8 servings. Honey Glaze

1/2 cup honey

1/4 cup bourbon

Combine honey and bourbon, blending well. Makes 3/4 cup. DUCKLING A L’ORANGE AMERICAN STYLE

1 (4 1/2- to 5-pound) duckling

Salt

2/3 cup orange marmalade

1/3 cup barbecue sauce

Sprinkle both sides of duckling with salt to taste. Place duckling, breast side up, on rack in shallow roasting pan.

Cover loosely with foil and bake at 425 degrees 45 minutes. Pierce skin occasionally to allow excess fat to drain. Reduce temperature to 325 degrees and bake 1 1/2 hours. Pour off drippings. Remove foil cover.

Combine orange marmalade and barbecue sauce. Brush duckling with sauce and roast 45 minutes longer, basting often. Serve on hot rice garnished with pineapple, apricots and watercress, if desired. Makes 2 to 3 servings. CRANBERRY ORANGE STUFFING FOR DUCKLING

1/2 cup chopped celery

1/4 cup chopped onion

1/4 cup butter or margarine

1 cup cranberries

1/4 cup sugar

1/3 cup orange pieces, drained

1/4 cup orange juice

1 teaspoon grated orange peel

4 cups bread cubes

1/4 teaspoon salt

1 (4 1/2- to 5-pound) duckling

Saute celery and onion in butter until tender but not brown. Add cranberries and sugar and cook slowly until cranberry skins begin to break. Stir in orange pieces, juice and peel. Add bread cubes and salt and mix carefully. Use to stuff 1 (4 1/2- to 5-pound) duckling. Makes 4 servings. SALMON TART

1 package frozen puff pastry shells

1/4 cup butter, melted

1 (8-ounce) package cream cheese or fresh chevre

1/4 cup sour cream or creme fraiche

1/2 pound sliced smoked salmon

1/4 cup black caviar

Roll out puff pastry shells to thin circle, about 8 inches in diameter. Brush circles on both sides with butter. Bake at 375 degrees about 20 minutes or until golden brown.

Blend cream cheese with 2 tablespoons sour cream. Spread 1/6 of cheese mixture over each hot pastry shell. Top with layer of salmon slices. Dollop each tart with remaining sour cream and dot with caviar. Makes 6 tarts.

Note: For a filo crust, stack 36 sheets filo. Cut into 8-inch rounds. Separate into 6 separate stacks of 6 sheets each and butter each sheet. Roll edges to form rim. Pierce with fork. Place shells on baking sheets and bake at 375 degrees 10 to 12 minutes or until golden brown. Fill as directed in recipe above. GINGER-VODKA SORBET

1 (1-inch) piece peeled ginger root, quartered

1 cup sugar

2 1/2 cups water

1/4 cup juniper berries

1 1/2 teaspoons lemon juice

1/4 cup vodka

Combine ginger, sugar, water and juniper berries in medium saucepan. Stir well. Heat to boiling. Cover and simmer 8 to 10 minutes until syrupy. Uncover, remove from heat and refrigerate to cool.

Strain, discarding ginger and juniper berries. Stir in lemon juice and vodka. Cover and freeze until half frozen.

Using metal knife blade in food processor container, process partially frozen sorbet mixture 1 minute, stopping once to scrape down container sides. Place in freezer container and freeze until 3/4 firm. Reprocess 1 minute. Refreeze to 3/4 firm. Then reprocess 2 minutes. Pack into airtight container and freeze at least 8 hours. For best results, let stand in freezer 2 days to allow flavors to meld. Makes about 1 pint.

Note: Juniper berries are often available at specialty gourmet foods stores. TARTS SOUFFLES AUX CHOCOLAT

2 egg yolks

1/2 cup granulated sugar

2 drops vanilla

1/2 cup flour

1 cup milk

1 ounce unsweetened chocolate, melted

4 egg whites

Baked Tart Shells

Powdered sugar

Sweetened whipped cream

Beat egg yolks with 1/4 cup granulated sugar and vanilla until light and fluffy. Gradually beat in flour until paste is formed.

Meanwhile, bring milk to boil. Add egg mixture all at once to milk mixture and bring again to boil. Beat vigorously with wire whisk to incorporate milk into dough until smooth. Continue to stir with wooden spoon until mixture is as thick as light chou paste or pastry cream.

Add melted chocolate and stir until blended. Cool. Beat egg whites until frothy. Gradually add remaining 1/4 cup granulated sugar until meringue is formed. Egg whites should not slide if bowl is tipped. Fold egg whites into souffle batter.

Pipe or spoon into Baked Tart Shells, filling to rim. Bake at 350 degrees 20 to 25 minutes or until souffles are puffy and crusty on top. Dust with powdered sugar and serve with whipped cream. Makes 6 to 8 servings. Baked Tart Shells

1 1/2 cups pastry flour

1/2 cup unsalted butter, very cold, cut into 1/2-inch pieces

1 1/2 tablespoons sugar

Dash salt

1 egg yolk

1 tablespoon whipping cream, very cold, about

Place flour, butter, sugar and salt in food processor container. Process, using quick on and off motion, until mixture resembles coarse meal.

Combine egg yolk and cream in small bowl. With motor running, add egg mixture. Process until dough begins to form. Add more cream, if necessary, to form dough that holds together. Scrape dough onto piece of foil. Wrap airtight and refrigerate until well chilled, at least 1 hour.

Divide dough into 6 to 8 portions, depending on whether size of pan is 3 or 4 inches. Roll each portion out onto lightly floured pastry cloth.

Transfer pastry carefully to tart pans. Press against bottoms and sides of pans, then trim excess from rims. Refrigerate until ready to use. When ready to bake, place tarts on baking sheet and bake at 350 degrees 10 to 12 minutes or until dough is pale golden and set but not browned. Makes 6 to 8 tart shells. OEUFS A LA NEIGE ALASKA

4 egg whites

1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar

Sugar

1 pint raspberry sherbet

Warm egg whites to room temperature. Add cream of tartar and beat until frothy. Gradually add 1 cup sugar and continue to beat until very stiff and glossy.

Place small scoop or rounded tablespoon sherbet in 6 (2 1/2- to 3-inch) souffle dishes. Freeze in dish. Cover with meringue. Sprinkle with sugar. Bake at 450 to 500 degrees about 2 to 3 minutes or until meringue is set. Sprinkle with sugar. Place under broiler and broil until golden brown. Makes 6 servings.