Historical Menu Offers Dishes of Charm and Taste from Philadelphia

Old recipes hold many surprises, and the Library Co. of Philadelphia, founded in 1731, is the source of several. Some of their treasures are currently revealed in “The Larder Invaded,” a charming exhibition of prints, portraits, artifacts and cookbooks composed around local Pennsylvania cooking. The recipes in the following menu were developed by William Woys Weaver, curator of the exhibit.

Supper opens with Potted Ham, a spicy pate named for the pot in which it is packed for storage. Potting was a popular 18th-Century method of preserving foods through the winter. Meat or fish would be thoroughly cooked, then pureed with butter or fat and packed tightly to exclude all air. Potted has nothing to do with alcohol, although in this particular recipe liquor is not lacking.

The term fricassee is even older and always means a delicious savory stew. In this particular recipe, cooked mutton or lamb is simmered with red wine and flavored with bacon, anchovy, ginger and thyme, and then sprinkled with grated orange peel. Strange bedfellows, but in this case remarkably happy ones.

Served on Pennsylvania Rusks

The fricassee is served over a famous Pennsylvania specialty--Germantown rusks. They are made of a slightly sweet yeast bread, highly spiced with caraway and coriander, which is sliced and baked to slivers of golden brown rusk. Whether toasted or served fresh, the bread is also excellent with the Potted Ham or a cheese spread.

I was instantly attracted by the idea of Cranberry Tarts. These winter berries are so little used, yet offer a wonderful touch of color in the cold months. This recipe consists basically of fresh cranberry sauce baked in shells of your favorite pie pastry. For me, they are a nostalgic throwback to the jam tarts of my English childhood.

Indeed, reminiscence of days gone by is half the charm of this historical supper. The other half is some unexpectedly good dishes.

HISTORICAL PHILADELPHIA SUPPER Potted Ham Brown Fricassee of Mutton Frances McDougall’s Germantown Rusks Cranberry Tarts Suggested Drink: Mulled or plain apple cider The provident cook leaves no room for last-minute mistakes, and every dish in this supper is prepared well ahead.

Up to two weeks ahead, make the Potted Ham. Seal with butter, then refrigerate. Bake the rusks. Store in an airtight container.

Up to three days ahead, cook the fricassee, then refrigerate.

In the morning, bake the Cranberry Tarts. Keep in an airtight container.

About one hour before serving, let the Potted Ham come to room temperature. Transfer the tarts to a platter, then refrigerate. Set the table.

About five minutes before serving, reheat the fricassee on top of the stove. Make the mulled cider.

POTTED HAM

1 pound lean cooked country ham, cut into chunks

3 cloves garlic, chopped

3/4 cup butter, melted

1 tablespoon Cognac

1 tablespoon tarragon vinegar

1 teaspoon dried thyme

Dash white pepper

Salt, optional

5 to 6 tablespoons butter (for storage), optional

Finely puree ham with garlic in food processor. Combine 3/4 cup melted butter, Cognac, vinegar, thyme and white pepper in container with pouring spout. With machine running, pour mixture through feed tube. Stop machine, then taste to adjust for seasonings. Ham is salty so more salt may not be needed. If lacking food processor, work ham through fine blade of meat grinder, then beat in garlic, butter, Cognac, vinegar, thyme, white pepper and salt, if needed.

Pack mixture into 3 (1-cup) crocks, then smooth tops. Cover and refrigerate 2 days for flavors to mellow.

Potted Ham can be kept up to 2 weeks, if sealed with clarified butter. Melt remaining 5 to 6 tablespoons butter in small saucepan. Skim froth from surface. Spoon butter over ham mixture so it is completely sealed. Discard milky whey in bottom of pan.

Note: Use good country ham for this recipe, not water-cured type.

BROWN FRICASSEE

OF MUTTON

1 pound lean cooked lamb, trimmed of fat

Flour

1 teaspoon ground ginger

1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper

4 ounces bacon, chopped

1 tablespoon oil

1 onion, finely chopped

2 tablespoons butter

8 anchovy fillets

2/3 cup dry red wine

2 cups lamb or veal stock

1 teaspoon dried thyme

Grated peel of 1 orange

Frances McDougall’s Germantown Rusks

Cut lamb into strips. Mix 3 tablespoons flour with ginger and pepper. Toss lamb with flour mixture until well coated.

Fry bacon in Dutch oven, stirring until fat runs. Add lamb and cook 3 to 4 minutes, stirring until browned. Remove lamb and bacon with slotted spoon. Add oil, heat and saute onion until browned.

To make sauce, work butter and 1 1/2 tablespoons flour to paste using fork. Mash in anchovy fillets. Add wine and stock to browned onions. Bring to boil. Whisk anchovy paste gradually into boiling sauce so it thickens. Stir in thyme.

Add lamb and bacon to sauce. Taste to adjust for seasonings. Simmer 5 to 10 minutes for flavors to mellow. Lamb can be kept up to 3 days in refrigerator.

Reheat lamb, if necessary. Transfer to serving dish. Sprinkle with orange peel. Serve with Germantown Rusks, spooning lamb over rusks on individual plates. Makes 6 servings.

Note: Beef and pork may be cooked this way, too.

Frances McDougall’s

Germantown Rusks

1/2 ounce cake yeast or 1/4 ounce dry yeast

2 cups warm milk

5 cups bread flour, about

1 large egg, lightly beaten

1/4 cup sugar

2 tablespoons ground coriander

2 tablespoons caraway seeds

1 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon ground ginger

Crumble or sprinkle yeast over milk. Let stand 5 minutes or until dissolved. Sift about 2 cups flour into large mixing bowl. Make well in center, then add yeast mixture. Stir, gradually drawing in flour to make batter. Any lumps will disappear when dough is kneaded. Cover bowl with wet cloth. Leave in warm place until batter is bubbly, about 1 hour. Grease 2 (8-inch) square cake pans or 4 medium loaf pans.

Beat egg, sugar, coriander, caraway seeds, salt and ginger into batter. Sift over remaining flour. Beat in flour, adding more, if necessary, to make soft, not sticky, dough. Turn dough onto floured board. Knead 5 minutes or until smooth and elastic.

Divide dough into 4 parts. Shape each into shallow brick shape. Set 2 side-by-side in cake pans, or singly in loaf pans. Cover with wet cloth. Let stand to rise about 25 to 35 minutes or until doubled.

Bake at 375 degrees 25 to 35 minutes or until browned and loaves sound hollow when tapped on bottom. Transfer to rack to cool. Bread can be eaten freshly baked or it can be frozen for storage.

To make rusks, let loaves dry several hours so they are easier to slice. Slice loaves as thinly as possible. Place on baking sheets in 150-degree oven. Dry 3 to 5 hours until rich cream color. Can be stored up to 2 weeks in airtight container. Makes 4 loaves or 70 to 80 rusks.

Note: Dough is shaped in shallow loaves to give classic rusk shape when sliced.

CRANBERRY TARTS

2 cups flour

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/3 cup shortening

1/2 cup butter

2 cups fresh or frozen cranberries

1 1/4 cups dark brown sugar, packed, about

Grated peel and juice of 1/2 lemon

1 teaspoon ground nutmeg

Ground cinnamon

To make pastry, sift flour with salt into mixing bowl. Add shortening and butter, cutting in with pastry cutter to very small pieces. Do not work mixture with fingertips or it will be sticky. Stir in 3 to 4 tablespoons water to make stiff dough.

Knead dough lightly until comes together. Wrap, then chill at least 1 hour. Dough can be kept up to 2 days in refrigerator, or frozen.

Roll out dough. Line 12 to 14 (3 1/3-inch) tartlet molds with dough. Chill 15 minutes.

Fill shells with parchment paper or foil, then weight down with uncooked rice or beans. Bake at 375 degrees 12 to 15 minutes until pastry is firm but not brown. Remove paper and rice or beans.

Mix cranberries, 1/2 cup water, brown sugar, lemon peel and juice and nutmeg in 2-quart saucepan. Simmer, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until berries soften and begin to burst, 8 to 10 minutes. Taste to adjust for seasonings, adding more sugar if necessary. Cool.

Fill tartlet shells with cranberry mixture. Return to oven to bake at 375 degrees until pastry is browned, 10 to 15 minutes. Tarts are best eaten day of baking, but can be kept 1 day in airtight container. Sprinkle with cinnamon just before serving. Makes 12 to 14 tarts.

Note: These are also good topped with whipped cream.