FULL STEAM AHEAD

There’s something missing in many American kitchens that always has been an essential cooking tool in the kitchens in Europe, Asia, the Middle East and countless other parts of the world.

Remember the pressure cooker?

Is it finally slowly being rediscovered? Again?

“It’s a cycle, and the cycle has turned with more women in the work field . . . when people are thinking about health,” says Homi Moghtaderi, president of Kuhn Rikon Swiss Gourmet Collection, which distributes Duromatic pressure cookers. Claiming to have sold more than a million pressure cookers in his life, Moghtaderi commented that the cooker is basic equipment in the Swiss kitchen, where three to four units of varying size are owned per household.

A smashing hit during the last war, the pressure cooker re-emerged when fuel supply was rationed. Much improved from its crude beginnings in 1682 when it was introduced in London as a “digester” by Frenchman Denis Pepin, the World War II cooker was smaller in size, more lightweight and equipped with fewer screws and clamps.

As the need for fuel efficiency became recognized at that time, the principle of rapid cooking by raising the boiling point and temperature of steam (up to 250 degrees) through increased pressure of 15 pounds per square inch above atmospheric pressure gained popular acceptance. After the war, sales volume of the pressure saucepans increased even higher.

Where did all the cookers go?

Excitement about the revolutionary utensil died down with the spread of stories about lids and food blowing up to the ceiling and jets of steam bursting from the pressure pots. This may be explained by the fact that product quality was not always maintained through the years that followed. In clamoring for equal success, cheaper, dangerous products flooded the market, forcing more expensive, quality merchandise off home shelves.

Today we’re seeing the rebirth of superior quality, safe pressure cookers. Followers continue to spread the cooker’s true values, instilling confidence in younger generations through more worthy equipment.

“Pressure cookers are undergoing a strong revival,” says Carl Sontheimer, Cuisinarts Inc. president. Justifying his move toward the development and sales of the new Cuisinart pressure cooker/steamer, he says, “With a doubled population and smaller kitchens, we’re looking at energy-saving ways, space-saving ways and, with busy working men and women, more time-saving ways in the kitchen.”

Like the Belgian-made Cuisinart cooker, several advanced European-made, and some American-made, units display marked improvements. Valves and pressure regulators that could usually fly off the pots have been replaced with built-in ones.

Vents and multiple holes and slots located in various spots in the unit back up safety valves to ensure the release of steam when too much pressure builds.

Lids have automatic safety locks so they won’t open until pressure is released completely to avoid any burst of steam.

Rubber gaskets on the lids that add tightness to the seal are now more lasting and effective.

Heavy-duty cookers are constructed of stainless steel, which affords durability. Sandwiched between the stainless base layers are aluminum or copper, either one of which improves heat conductivity and promotes even heat distribution.

”. . . and bless them, they’re quiet!” Sontheimer said. Instead of the bothersome and fear-provoking rattle in earlier models, a faint hissing sound is all you’ll hear in these newer versions when the heat needs to be turned down.

In addition to the low noise level, less liquid is needed in the new cookers since there is minimal escape of steam.

Aside from energy conservation (you can save about two-thirds of the gas or electricity) and time savings (which is about a third of the normal time), what made the pressure cooker click in the ‘40s and ‘50s?

Believers advocate there’s nothing like making flavorful chicken, beef or veal stocks in the cooker.

“You can make delicious stock in 30 minutes instead of at least three hours in a regular pot,” Sontheimer said. “If you pressure-cook bones for three hours they become so soft that you can puree them to make great pet food. Just be careful that it is not too concentrated and too rich for your pet.”

If you remember pressurized Boston brown bread the Betty Crocker or “Joy of Cooking” way, visualize it as another classic accomplishment of the cooker. Almost a perfect combination is that of legumes and the pressure cooker. Some people don’t like the idea of soaking beans or lentils overnight, so the legumes may first be parcooked in the pressure cooker for 15 minutes with water, salt and oil. The oil is necessary to reduce foam that might clog the vent tube. Use one tablespoon of oil for each cup of beans.

A favorite usage of the pressure cooker is to tenderize meats for stews, particularly tougher cuts of meats or meaty ribs and bones that are flavorful. One-pot, complete-meal cooking also is popularly advocated with pressure cookers, since one can saute garlic and onions or brown meat in the uncovered pot before pressurizing and adding the softer ingredients.

Instant Pressure Release

Modern cookers are designed with an instant pressure release mechanism so that one doesn’t have to rush to the sink to cool the unit. With a push of a fingertip on a button or valve, steam can escape from the pan through a vent to release pressure. The lid unlocks only after depressurizing. At this point, a vegetable ingredient may be added at the final stage of cooking without losing much time.

“Artichokes are unbelievable . . . they turn out so moist and tender in a few minutes,” says Margaret Radochay, a Los Angeles Cuisinarts adviser. In testing the new gadget, Radochay rediscovered the pressure cooker as the missing tool in her kitchen. “As everyone knows, the microwave is wonderful for quickly cooking vegetables,” she said. “But in the pressure cooker, you don’t have to double up or increase the time when doubling a recipe as you do in the microwave.”

Caramel custards or flans have been proved to cook well and fast in the pressure cooker. To add to one’s dessert files, Cuisinarts contributed pressure cooker dessert recipes for surprisingly sumptuous cheesecake and a flourless egg cake.

It also seems apparent that many men like to cook in the pressure cooker. Il Son New, a San Francisco bachelor lawyer, had acquired a German-made Fissler cooker recently and didn’t take long to influence his two friends, who are vegetable freaks, in obtaining a cooker. He finds it useful for fixing rice, chili and wild game stew to serve to his hunter friends.

“I have my deer butchered into portions--brisket shoulder, front legs and lower portions, shoulder legs, etc.--and cut each into two-inch pieces so that I can make deer rib stew in the cooker,” Il Son New said. He sometimes throws in beans, herbs, potatoes and a little jalapeno and garlic. “I think men accept the pressure cooker more easily as they understand the mechanics more than women,” he said.

Steaming, which is becoming even more popular in Europe, according to one French kitchen product research specialist, is not to be missed as an important function of the pressure cooker. Many new pressure saucepans come with steaming basket inserts with handles and feet for instant steaming of vegetables, fish and other foods.

Aside from retaining bright colors and natural flavors in vegetables, the very brief cooking period, minimal steam escape and less liquid used account for some vitamin and mineral retention in pressure-steamed foods. However, some experts say high heat destroys vitamins. Addressing this question, Cuisinart food and product adviser Sidney Kahn, former Food and Drug Administration consultant who now runs a commercial laboratory, “Raising the heat from 212 to 220 or 250, at the most, is not a major factor. Cooked foods never contain as much nutrients as raw foods, anyway, and even though it is a higher temperature, it’s a much shorter time. Water-soluble vitamins like Vitamin C will be more affected than fat-soluble ones.”

The future of the pressure cooker sounds promising with this modern technology. Particularly with the younger generation. Sontheimer says, “You had an older generation that still remembers the problems with the old cookers, but the need is created from the working younger generation and they can easily be educated because they don’t have the fear of the older group.”

SPANISH CHICKEN

3 pounds chicken pieces, skinned, if desired

2 tablespoons oil

1 tablespoon butter

2 large onions, sliced

4 cloves garlic, crushed

1 medium green pepper, chopped

4 large tomatoes, peeled and chopped

1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce

1 teaspoon chopped rosemary

1 teaspoon sugar

Salt, pepper

2 cups sliced mushrooms

1 (7-ounce) jar green olives

2 teaspoons cornstarch

Divide chicken into 3 batches. Heat oil and butter in pressure cooker about 2 minutes. Brown and remove each batch of chicken. Away from heat, sprinkle 2 tablespoons water in pressure cooker. Stir to remove any frying residues attached to base.

Return cooker to heat. Add onions, garlic and green pepper. Stir-fry about 4 minutes. Add chicken, tomatoes, Worcestershire, rosemary, sugar, salt and pepper to taste and mushrooms. Stir to mix. Cover cooker and lock lid according to manufacturer’s directions.

Bring to full pressure (15 pounds) on high heat. Reduce heat and cook 6 minutes. Remove cooker from heat. Allow to cool naturally and pressure to be released. Open cooker and place chicken on serving dish. Keep hot.

Return cooker to high heat. Add olives and boil until liquid is reduced to about half, stirring occasionally. Combine cornstarch with 2 teaspoons water and add to sauce. Cook until just thickened. Adjust seasonings to taste. Pour over chicken. Makes about 8 servings.

TROPICAL TENDER RIBS

3 pounds country-style pork spareribs

2 tablespoons oil

2 tablespoons sugar

2 (6-ounce) cans pineapple juice

1 tablespoon lemon juice or rice vinegar

2 teaspoons dry mustard

6 tablespoons soy sauce

1/2 teaspoon minced ginger root

3 cloves garlic, minced

1 1/2 tablespoons cornstarch

2 tablespoons chopped green onions

Brown ribs on both sides in hot oil in pressure cooker set over medium-high heat. Combine sugar, pineapple juice, lemon juice, mustard, soy sauce, ginger, garlic and ribs in pressure cooker.

Cover and lock pressure cooker according to manufacturer’s directions. Place over high heat to full 15-pound pressure. Reduce heat and pressure-cook 15 minutes. Let pressure drop of its own accord or cook 20 minutes and release pressure according to manufacturer’s directions. Remove cover carefully. Remove ribs from sauce and place on platter. Blend cornstarch with hot sauce in cooker and cook just to thicken, stirring frequently. Stir in green onions. Serve over ribs with pineapple slices and tomato wedges, if desired. Makes about 4 servings.

Note: This recipe is adapted from Nordic Ware Tender Cooker booklet.

FLOURLESS CHOCOLATE CAKE

9 ounces semisweet chocolate, broken into pieces

1 1/2 cups sugar

1 cup unsalted butter

5 eggs

Dash salt

1 teaspoon vanilla

Coffee Whipped Cream

Raspberries or raspberry puree, optional

Toasted almonds, optional

Process chocolate and sugar in food processor until reduced to consistency of sugar.

Melt butter in microwave until bubbly hot. Pour into small feed tube of food processor and process with chocolate mixture 45 seconds. Scrape down work bowl. Add eggs, salt and vanilla and process 15 seconds.

Transfer to buttered 8-inch springform pan. Place circle of wax paper on top of batter. Cover pan with foil.

Add 1 1/2 cups water to pressure cooker with trivet in place. Lower pan in pressure cooker and cover pressure cooker, locking lid according to manufacturer’s directions. Place on high heat and bring to high pressure, 15 pounds. Lower heat and pressure-cook, maintaining full pressure, 20 minutes. Release pressure and carefully remove cover.

Leave cake in springform pan and refrigerate up to 24 hours. Remove from pan and frost with Coffee Whipped Cream. Garnish with raspberries and toasted almonds or serve with raspberry puree, if desired. Makes 12 to 16 servings.

Coffee Whipped Cream

1 cup whipping cream

2 tablespoons instant coffee

2 to 3 tablespoons powdered sugar

Whip cream with coffee and powdered sugar until stiff.

MEXICAN BEEF STRIPS

(Using Nordic Ware

Tender Cooker)

1 1/2 to 2 pounds round steak, cut into thin strips

1 teaspoon garlic salt

1/2 teaspoon chili powder

1/2 teaspoon ground cumin

1/2 cup green pepper strips

1/2 cup sweet red pepper strips

1/2 small onion, cut into rings and separated

Dash hot pepper sauce

1/3 cup water

Salt, pepper

Warm flour or corn tortillas

Mix beef with garlic salt, chili powder and cumin. Place meat in Tender Cooker microwave pressure cooker, arranging in doughnut shape, with center left open. Add green and red peppers, onion, hot pepper sauce and water.

Place single layer of 7-inch-diameter circle foil on top of food. Cover and add red pressure regulator weight. Microwave on HIGH 15 minutes. Allow pressure indicating stem to drop. Remove red pressure regulator weight and uncover. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve with warm tortillas and, if desired, lettuce, chopped tomatoes, sliced avocado and sour cream. Makes 4 servings.

LEMON LAMB SHANKS

3 tablespoons oil

4 (1/2-pound) lamb shanks

1/2 cup white wine

1 cup chicken stock, bouillon or water

1 tablespoon grated lemon peel

1 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon black pepper

1/2 teaspoon sugar

1 clove garlic, crushed

1/2 cup chopped parsley

Thin lemon slices

Hot cooked rice

Heat oil in 6- to 8-quart pressure cooker and brown lamb shanks. Add wine, stock and lemon peel. Sprinkle with salt, pepper and sugar.

Cover and lock cooker according to manufacturer’s directions. Place over high heat and set at 15 pounds pressure. When pressure is reached, reduce heat and cook 20 to 25 minutes. Release pressure and carefully remove lid. Remove lamb to serving platter.

Add garlic to cooker placed on high heat. Boil sauce rapidly, uncovered, to thicken. Add parsley and spoon over shanks. Garnish with lemon slices. Serve with rice. Makes 4 servings.

Note: If using larger lamb shanks (about 12 ounces each), set control at 10 pounds and cook 35 minutes.

ZESTY TOMATO SAUCE

(Ma Cuisine Cooking School, Pamela Sheldon)

3 tablespoons olive oil

4 hot Italian sausages, casings removed

3 cloves garlic, minced

1 large leek, white part only, chopped

2 pounds Roma tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped

1 (6-ounce) can tomato paste

1 bay leaf

1/2 bunch oregano, chopped

1/2 bunch thyme, chopped

1 bunch basil, chopped

3 tablespoons rosemary, chopped

Salt, pepper

Heat olive oil in large heavy skillet. Cook sausage to brown. Stir in garlic and leek. Add tomatoes, tomato paste and bay leaf. Simmer 20 to 30 minutes. Add oregano, thyme, basil and rosemary. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Pack into pint jars, leaving 1 inch head space. Remove air bubbles with knife.

Place jars on rack in large pressure cooker. Pour about 2 inches water into pressure cooker. Process under 10 pounds pressure 20 minutes. Remove jars from canner and cool on rack. Do not tighten screw bands. Test for seal. Makes about 4 pints.

Note: Sauce may be cooked in pressure cooker instead of skillet, but add 1 cup broth or stock to mixture and pressure-cook at 15 pounds pressure 10 minutes. Boil sauce 10 minutes when reheating.

PRESSURE COOKER CHEESECAKE

3 double graham crackers, chopped to fine crumbs

1 large orange

1 medium lemon

1 1/3 cups sugar

4 (8-ounce) packages cream cheese, cut into 1-inch cubes

4 eggs

1 egg yolk

2 tablespoons whipping cream

1 teaspoon vanilla

2 tablespoons flour

2/3 cup sour cream

Place crumbs in buttered 8-inch springform pan and shake to coat bottom evenly. Do not remove excess crumbs. Set pan aside.

Remove outer peels of orange and lemon with swivel-bladed peeler, leaving pith on fruit. Place peels and 1/3 cup sugar in processor fitted with metal blade. Chop fine, about 1 minute. Scrape work bowl and add remaining 1 cup sugar and cream cheese. Process 1 minute. Add eggs, egg yolk, whipping cream, vanilla and flour. Process 20 seconds. Pour batter into prepared pan and cover with buttered wax paper.

Pour 1 1/2 cups water into pressure cooker and place trivet in bottom. Place cheesecake on trivet. Cover cooker and lock lid according to manufacturer’s directions. Place over high heat. When 10- or 12-pound pressure is reached, reduce heat. Pressure-cook 35 minutes. Release pressure and carefully remove cover. Remove pan from cooker. Remove wax paper and spread top evenly with sour cream. Cover and refrigerate in pan at least 12 hours. Serve cold. Makes 12 to 16 servings.

Note: To remove pan easily, cut piece of foil 12 inches wide by 24 inches long and fold lengthwise in quarters. Center strip on trivet and place cheesecake on trivet. You should have about 8 inches foil strip extending upward on each side.

CHICKEN STOCK

2 pounds chicken gizzards, hearts, necks, backs or any combination of these

2 quarts water

1 medium onion

2 medium carrots, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces

2 medium stalks celery, cut into 1-inch pieces

2 whole black peppercorns

1 teaspoon salt

2 sprigs parsley

Insert drainer basket in pressure cooker and combine chicken parts, water, onion, carrots, celery, peppercorns, salt and parsley in basket.

Cover cooker and lock lid according to manufacturer’s directions. Place over high heat. As soon as pressure indicator reaches medium or 12 pounds pressure, reduce heat, but allow pressure indicator to stabilize at high or 15 pounds pressure.

Pressure-cook at least 30 minutes. Longer cooking time, up to 2 hours, produces richer stock. Release pressure and remove cover. Makes 8 cups in 4-quart cooker.

Note: Amounts may be doubled using 8-quart pressure cooker to make 17 cups stock. Cooking time will be the same.

EASY CHILI

2 tablespoons oil

2 pounds lean beef chuck, coarsely chopped

3 tablespoons chili powder

2 teaspoons ground cumin

1 teaspoon dried oregano

1 tablespoon salt

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 large cloves garlic, minced

2 large onions, chopped

1 (28-ounce) can whole tomatoes, drained

1 (6-ounce) can tomato paste

1 (14-ounce) can clear beef broth

1 (15-ounce) can red kidney beans, drained and rinsed

6 ounces Cheddar cheese, shredded

1 medium red onion, chopped

Crusty bread

Heat oil in pressure cooker, uncovered, over medium-high heat. Add meat and brown. Stir in chili powder, cumin, oregano, salt and pepper. Cook 30 seconds. Add garlic and onions, sauteing with meat mixture. Mix in tomatoes, tomato paste and beef broth.

Cover pressure cooker and lock lid according to manufacturer’s directions. Place over high heat. As soon as pressure indicator reaches medium or 12 pounds pressure, reduce heat and allow pressure to stabilize at 15 pounds. Pressure-cook 10 minutes.

Release pressure and carefully remove cover. Stir in kidney beans. Serve with cheese, red onion and crusty bread. Makes 6 to 8 servings.

LENTIL SOUP WITH SMOKED TURKEY

1/4 cup olive oil

2 teaspoons salt

1 pound lentils

6 cups chicken broth

2 cloves garlic, crushed

1 medium tomato, diced

1 cup chopped onions

1/2 cup chopped, peeled carrots

1 cup chopped leeks

2 cups smoked turkey or chicken

1/4 teaspoon black pepper

2 cups spinach leaves, optional

Buttered croutons

Add oil and salt to lentils. Cover with water and let soak overnight. Drain.

Place lentils in pressure cooker. Add chicken broth, garlic, tomato, onions, carrots, leeks, turkey and pepper. Cover and lock pressure cooker according to manufacturer’s directions. Allow pressure to reach 15 pounds pressure. Reduce heat and pressure-cook 20 minutes.

Release pressure and carefully remove lid. Stir in spinach leaves. Adjust salt to taste. Serve with buttered croutons. Makes about 8 servings.

Food styling by MINNIE BERNARDINO and DONNA DEANE / Los Angeles Times