BRINGING IN THE LAMB : More Americans are discovering delights of lamb as chefs make use of the nutritious meat in unusual ways

If you believe Wild West movie lore, the Turn of the Century was filled with bloodthirsty, vengeful tales of how beef barons prevented sheep farmers from infiltrating the kingdom of precious cattle lands.

In the movies, the beef barons were so successful that the lamb industry was forced to remain small, unassuming and not fully understood.

And that’s not far from the truth.

Lamb had only a brief period of popularity in the ‘30s and ‘40s, before the advent of cattle feedlots in America and before grain-fed beef developed the marbling that enticed Americans away from all other meat, according to Polly Hayes of the American Lamb Council in Denver.

Since then, lamb has had little chance of luring Americans away from beef--a robust 97.1 pounds per capita consumption of beef (as of 1985), compared with lamb’s measly 1.5 pounds per capita (as of 1986).

The lamb industry has remained deadlocked for the past 10 years, with neither any dramatic increase nor decrease in production or sales. According to the latest U.S. Department of Agriculture and Department of Commerce production figures, lamb production remains steady at 6.3 million heads, compared with 36.6 million heads for beef cattle sold to market. In addition, lamb from New Zealand and Australia, which has not found high acceptance by Americans because of its small size and gamy flavor, is sold in amounts of about 35.4 million pounds yearly to American markets.

The lamb industry, in fact, has had a difficult time combatting misconceptions about lamb. “The most objectionable thing about lamb, according to consumers, is that it has a gamy odor, which is why we recommend cooking lamb at low temperatures to prevent lamb fat from burning,” Hayes said.

Cooking lamb hasn’t come easy, either. Indeed, Americans prefer the lamb served in restaurants rather than having to figure out how to cook it at home, as one study reported by the American Lamb Council indicates.

But things are looking up for lamb.

You can almost hear the drums roll when you open a menu in today’s top-flight restaurants and find lamb featured with flair and imagination never before seen. In the old days, few of the best continental restaurants dared to stray from lamb chops or rack with mint jelly.

Restaurants, in fact, have done for the lamb industry what the lamb industry could not do for itself--inspire home cooks to try their hands at this little-known, but highly desirable meat.

“Restaurant usage holds great potential for use of lamb or for consumers trying it out for the first time,” a recent American Lamb Council study pointed out.

“Actually, about three in 10 households remember eating lamb in restaurants in the last year,” said Hayes of the lamb council.

But concern about health is probably an even more potent force in the changing attitudes toward lamb today.

A consumer tracking study prepared by Keith Murphy and Associates, an independent marketing company in New Jersey, shows that health concerns have begun to turn more Americans to lamb. “Nutrition is a powerful positioning” for the use of lamb in the future, the study said.

Three ounces of lamb contain 176 calories, compared with 192 for beef. Cholesterol, however, remains comparable to that of beef, with a difference.

Trimming the Fat

“Most of the fat on young lamb, which is the only lamb sold in markets today, can be trimmed off, thus reducing fat and cholesterol content, while much of the fat in beef is inherent in the marbling,” Hayes said.

Because lamb is a tender meat, it can be prepared using methods that don’t call for added fat. Saturated fat makes up 56% of the fat content in a three-ounce lamb serving that has been trimmed of fat. The remaining 44% is polyunsaturated.

Another attractive nutritional feature is that it is nutrient-dense, meaning it has a large share of nutrition for a low share of calories. Like beef, lamb is an excellent source of high-quality protein, Vitamin B-12, riboflavin, niacin, iron and zinc.

Some experts believe that lamb, basically a foraging animal with low maintenance and feeding needs, will dominate the meat market as land for both keeping beef and growing grain becomes more scarce. Today’s lamb, however, is both grain- and grass-fed, with no appreciable difference in flavor or quality.

Lamb, one of the first animals to be domesticated 8,000 years ago, has been sanctified and sacrificed in religious ceremonies throughout history. It also has been adored as the ultimate feast wherever sheep are raised throughout the world. Roast lamb is part of the Easter festivities of the Greek Orthodox religion and a staple holiday banquet meat from India to the Balkan Peninsula. In the United Kingdom, where lamb is a principal product, it is served as a prized meat throughout the holiday seasons.

Chefs With New Ideas

The British, in fact, gave Americans their initial culinary appreciation of lamb with their love of mint jelly as a seasoning and garnish. And there culinary experimentation remained glued until an international influx of chefs in recent years introduced new ideas for ways of preparing, presenting and enjoying lamb.

Today’s restaurants are not only serving choice cuts imaginatively, but lesser lamb cuts as well. At City restaurant in Los Angeles, for instance, lamb shanks are served with noodles cooked with exotic seasonings. But the tender cuts still remain the popular choice. At La Maison du Caviar in Beverly Hills, the latest arrival among many status restaurants, chef Lionel Deniaude serves lamb in the forms of Russian chachlik and French sautes. At Bistango in Los Angeles, chef Dale Payne adds a bourbon sauce to a deviled rack of lamb, and at Chianti/Cucina in Los Angeles, executive chef Antonio Tomasi features lamb in ragouts, pasta sauces and unusual sautes, as the following one with balsamic vinegar.

From ethnic strongholds such as Trader Vic’s restaurants, they’ve learned to enjoy roasted Indonesian lamb marinated in spices and served crisp outside and somewhat pinkish inside with peanut sauce.

A recent influx of Southeast Asian chefs has been tempting palates in California with such culinary delights as lamb satay and curries adapted from East Indian settlers. Indian settlers to the United States have left their mark with interesting and spicy lamb curry dishes and other meat and vegetable concoctions.

Door Opened for Rare Lamb

Perhaps it was the recent move by professional French chefs to the United States that has most helped to open the door to a taste for exotically prepared lamb cooked rare, usually as medallions, racks or chops.

Most French preparations call for sauces, which are sometimes surprising fruit or liqueur concoctions.

Greeks, who have probably contributed greatly to the appreciation of and education about lamb in this country, serve lamb whole or by the leg with plenty of garlic and herbs. We give such a recipe as prepared by Sofi Constantinidis of Sofi’s restaurant in Los Angeles. Slivers of garlic and rosemary (sometimes mint leaves are used) are stuffed into incisions made throughout the leg and baked in parchment until the meat almost falls apart.

Contrary to misconceptions, today’s young lamb is available all year, thanks to year-round breeding techniques. Most of the lamb found in markets comes from animals slaughtered at 6 to 8 months and weighing 120 pounds. Yearlings (1- to 2-year-old lambs) and mutton (more than 2 years) never find their way to the marketplace in the United States. They are, instead, exported to foreign countries.

“People have the misconception that only spring lamb is young lamb. Actually, young lamb is the only lamb available year round to consumers today,” Hayes said.

Admittedly a more expensive meat than beef, lamb price ranges depend on market and area, from $1.99 to $3.99 per pound for lamb leg (bone in) and $5.99 for boneless leg of lamb. Loin lamb chops can be as high as $8.99 and rack of lamb costs $9.99 per pound in specialty markets. Supermarket prices vary from area to area but are considerably lower than those at specialty markets.

Lamb shanks, a lesser cut, cost almost as much as a steak--about $2.49 in some quality markets. Lamb shoulder might range from $2 to $3 per pound.

Meeting Consumer Needs

You’ll notice that the bone-in legs of lamb are beginning to disappear in many markets. Why? “Markets are trying to meet the needs of today’s consumer looking for convenience,” Hayes said.

In many states, so-called miniature boneless leg roasts weighing two pounds are becoming more popular among small family consumers.

“One of the problems was also that consumers didn’t want to buy a whole leg for a small family. The mini-roast is the answer for these consumers,” Hayes said. So you’ll find legs of lamb sold without the shank bone in more markets today. Those consumers who prefer legs of lamb with the long shankbone to use as a handle for carving may be out of luck.

Americans, Hayes said, prefer lamb cooked medium to medium rare. Less-tender meat cuts, such as shank, shoulder and breast, require longer cooking time in liquid than do tender choice cuts and are cooked until fork-tender. Please see the related story on Page 26 for times and temperatures for cooking lamb cuts.

Here are some recipes for various lamb cuts which might inspire expansion of your lamb repertoire, as well as make it become an occasional alternative to other meats.

The first recipe by chef Lionel Deniaude of La Maison du Caviar in Beverly Hills is served with an Eggplant Caviar that is typical of the Russian cuisine. At the restaurant, Deniaude adds pilaf and savory marmalade to the meat dish. A salad of radicchio, mache and arugula is also served.

Spinach seasoned with lemon juice and olive oil is an accompaniment to Antonio Tomasi’s three-meat dish.

Bistango’s chef, Dale Payne, serves Bourbon Rack of Lamb at the restaurant with grilled polenta and a bouquet of steamed baby vegetables.

Gordon Drysdale of Philippe Philippe restaurant in Los Angeles prepares filleted rack of lamb medallions similarly to pepper steak and serves the medallions with cabbage seasoned with horseradish and caraway seeds.

Sofi Constantinidis of Sofi’s restaurant in Los Angeles is a native of Greece. The lamb cooked in parchment is typical of the northern regions of Greece, where bandits stealing lambs would conceal their booty in parchment--or so goes the legend.

Food styling by MINNIE BERNARDINO and DONNA DEANE / Los Angeles

LA MAISON DU CAVIAR CHACHLIK

(Lionel Deniaude)

2 pounds fillet of lamb or boneless leg of lamb

Juice of 1 lime

Juice of 1 lemon

1/2 cup olive oil

1 clove garlic

3 tablespoons butter

1/2 cup dry white wine

1 cup lamb or other meat stock

Few leaves mint, chopped

Few leaves tarragon, chopped

Salt, pepper

Eggplant Caviar

Cut lamb into 3/4-inch cubes. Thread on 6-inch wood skewers. Combine lime and lemon juices, olive oil and garlic in shallow pan. Place skewered lamb in marinade and turn to coat well. Cover and marinate 2 to 3 hours, turning often.

Melt 2 tablespoons butter in large skillet. Add brochettes, a few at a time, and cook until browned and cooked to desired doneness. Set aside in warm place.

Add white wine to pan drippings and reduce to glaze. Add lamb stock, mint and tarragon and reduce by half. Add remaining 1 tablespoon butter, salt and pepper to taste and cook until butter melts. Pour into blender container and blend until smooth.

Pour sauce on platter and arrange lamb fillets over sauce. Serve with Eggplant Caviar. Makes 6 servings.

Eggplant Caviar

1 or 2 cloves garlic, minced

1 tablespoon chopped thyme

1/4 cup oil

1 eggplant, chopped

2 tomatoes, chopped

1 zucchini, chopped

Salt, pepper

Saute garlic and thyme in oil. Add eggplant, tomatoes and zucchini and cook until very soft, about 20 to 25 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Makes 6 servings.

LAMB CHOPS WITH TARRAGON SAUCE DENIAUDE

(Lionel Deniaude)

1 or 2 shallots, minced

2 clove garlic, minced

1 1/2 tablespoons chopped tarragon

Butter

1/2 cup vermouth

1/2 cup white wine

1/2 cup lamb or other meat broth

Salt, pepper

12 to 18 baby lamb chops

1 teaspoon chopped thyme

Saute shallots, half of garlic and 1 tablespoon tarragon in 2 tablespoons butter until shallots are translucent. Add vermouth and wine and reduce by half. Add lamb broth and reduce by half. Add 1 tablespoon butter and simmer until butter melts. Pour into blender container and blend until smooth. Add salt and pepper to taste. Set aside.

Sprinkle lamb chops with remaining garlic, thyme and remaining 1/2 tablespoon tarragon. Saute chops in 2 tablespoons butter until browned on both sides and done as desired. Pour sauce on platter and arrange lamb chops over. Allow 2 or 3 chops per person. Makes 6 servings.

CUCINA’S THREE-MEAT SAUTE WITH BALSAMIC VINEGAR

(Antonio Tomasi)

1 1/2 pounds combination of lamb, beef and veal fillets

Salt, pepper

2 tablespoons oil

5 ounces balsamic vinegar

1/2 cup Port

1 cup prepared brown sauce

Sprinkle lamb, beef and veal fillets with salt and pepper. Heat oil in skillet. Add meat fillets and cook until lightly browned on both sides or until done as desired. Remove fillets and keep warm.

Add Port and balsamic vinegar to pan. Cook until reduced to glaze. Add brown sauce and simmer until sauce thickens. Makes 6 servings.

Note: Prepared brown sauce is available in frozen form at some gourmet grocery stores.

BISTANGO BOURBON RACK OF LAMB

(Dale Payne)

1 carrot, finely diced

1 stalk celery, finely diced

1/2 small onion, finely diced

3 sprigs parsley, minced

1 clove garlic, mashed

1 cup bourbon

2 (1 1/2-pound) racks of lamb

Dijon mustard

Bread crumbs

Bourbon Sauce

Combine carrot, celery, onion, parsley and garlic in bottom of shallow pan large enough to hold lamb racks. Add bourbon to cover.

French lamb rack bones (remove gristle from bone in lower portion of lamb chops). Add lamb racks to marinade and turn to coat well. Cover and marinate in refrigerator 6 to 8 hours or overnight.

When ready to cook, remove lamb racks from marinade and grill over hot coals or under broiler 2 inches from source of heat until seared on both sides.

Brush tops of rack with Dijon mustard. Sprinkle with bread crumbs and roast at 375 to 400 degrees 30 minutes or until well browned, covering exposed bones with foil when they begin to brown to prevent scorching. Serve with Bourbon Sauce. Makes 6 servings.

Bourbon Sauce

2 shallots

Butter

2 tablespoons bourbon, about

1 3/4 cups veal or lamb stock

Salt, pepper

Saute shallots in 1 tablespoon butter until translucent. Add 1 tablespoon bourbon and stock and cook until reduced by half. Remove from heat. Stir until butter melts. Return to heat and add salt and pepper to taste. Thin with small amount of bourbon, if necessary. Makes about 1 cup sauce.

MOROCCAN LAMB TAJIN

2 pounds lamb stew meat

2 tablespoons butter or margarine

1 medium onion, chopped

1 1/2 tablespoons flour

1/4 teaspoon powdered saffron

1 (2-inch) stick cinnamon

1 teaspoon salt

1/8 teaspoon black pepper

1 cup large dried prunes

2 teaspoons grated orange peel

2 teaspoons sugar

Cut meat into 1 1/2-inch cubes and brown in butter. Remove meat with slotted spoon. Add onion to drippings and cook until tender, but not browned. Stir in flour and cook, stirring, until well browned.

Add meat and 2 cups water and bring to boil, stirring until smooth. Stir in saffron, cinnamon, salt and pepper. Cover, reduce heat and simmer 1 1/2 hours, adding water if too thick. Meanwhile, cover prunes with cold water and let stand 1 hour. Drain and add to stew. Stir in orange peel and sugar. Heat thoroughly. Remove cinnamon. Makes 6 servings.

PHILIPPE PHILIPPE SEARED LAMB WITH PEPPERCORNS AND CABBAGE

(Gordon Drysdale)

2 pounds lamb loins

Salt

1/2 teaspoon cracked black peppercorns

1/2 teaspoon cracked green peppercorns

Olive oil

2 ounces brandy or Cognac

4 cups Lamb Stock or other meat stock

2 tablespoons butter

Pepper

Caraway Cabbage

Watercress sprigs

Season lamb loins with salt to taste. Press black and green peppercorns onto surface of lamb.

Brush large skillet with olive oil. Add lamb loins and sear until deep brown on 1 side. Turn and place skillet in oven and roast other side at 400 degrees 6 to 7 minutes or until meat is done as desired. Set meat aside in warm place.

Meanwhile, pour fat from pan. Add brandy and cook until reduced to glaze. Add Lamb Stock and cook until reduced by half. Stir in butter until melted. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

To serve, place Caraway Cabbage in center of platter. Slice lamb and arrange slices around cabbage. Garnish with watercress. Makes 6 servings.

Lamb Stock

2 lamb saddles

1 carrot, finely diced

1 stalk celery, finely diced

1 small onion, finely diced

1 bay leaf

Dash black peppercorns

1/2 head garlic

Have butcher fillet lamb loin from bones and cut bones into pieces. Reserve filleted portion. Sprinkle carrot, celery and onion in bottom of large roasting pan. Place lamb bones over mixture and roast at 350 degrees until browned, about 30 minutes.

Fill large pot with water. Add bones, bay leaf, black peppercorns and garlic. Bring to boil. Reduce heat and simmer over low heat 2 to 4 hours. Strain and discard bones.

Caraway Cabbage

1/2 head cabbage, shredded

1 large shallot, minced

1/4 cup butter

2 tablespoons white wine

2/3 cup whipping cream

1 (2-inch-long) piece fresh horseradish, shredded

1 teaspoon caraway seeds

Salt, pepper

Dash cayenne pepper

Saute cabbage and shallot in butter until wilted. Add wine, cream, horseradish and caraway seeds. Bring to boil. Reduce liquid to 1/3. Season with salt and pepper to taste and cayenne. Keep warm.

SOFI’S BANDIT-STYLE LAMB

(Sofi Constantinidis)

1 (4 1/2- to 5-pound) leg of lamb

1/2 lemon

6 cloves garlic, slivered

Rosemary leaves

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon cracked black pepper

1/2 teaspoon dry mustard

1/2 cup butter, melted

Juice of 1 lemon

Dash oregano

12 potatoes, peeled and quartered

Rinse lamb and pat dry. Rub leg with cut side of half lemon. Make incisions in several places around lamb. Insert garlic sliver and a few rosemary leaves in each incision.

Combine salt, pepper and dry mustard. Rub all over lamb. Mix butter with most of lemon juice and rub over lamb. Sprinkle lightly with pepper and oregano.

Wrap airtight with large pieces parchment paper or 3 or 4 sheets wax paper. Cover with foil and seal airtight. Place in baking pan and bake at 325 degrees 3 hours, until meat falls off bone.

About 1 hour before done, place potatoes around foil-wrapped lamb. Sprinkle with remaining lemon juice. Add small amount water to bottom of pan while cooking potatoes. Potatoes will steam with meat.

Unwrap leg of lamb. Bones will pull easily off leg. Cut meat into portions and serve with potatoes and juices from roast. Makes 6 servings.

ROLLED SHOULDER OF LAMB WITH VEGETABLES

1 (4- to 6-pound) lamb shoulder, boned, rolled and tied

Salt, pepper

1/4 cup butter or margarine

1 beef bouillon cube

1/2 pound white onions, peeled and cooked, or 1 (16-ounce) can white onions, drained

1/2 pound mushrooms

2 cups diced cooked turnips

1/2 pound fresh green beans, cooked, or 2 (9-ounce) packages frozen French-style green beans, thawed

Sprinkle lamb with salt and pepper to taste. Place on rack in roasting pan. Roast at 325 degrees 30 to 35 minutes per pound or until meat thermometer registers 140 degrees for rare, 160 degrees for medium or 170 for well done.

Meanwhile, melt butter. Add bouillon cube and cook over low heat, stirring constantly, until bouillon cube dissolves.

About 30 to 35 minutes before end of lamb roasting time, arrange onions, mushrooms, turnips and green beans around lamb. Brush vegetables with bouillon mixture. Continue cooking until lamb reaches desired degree of doneness. Makes 6 to 8 servings.

ORANGE GLAZED LAMB SHANKS

4 lamb shanks

Flour

Salt, pepper

2 tablespoons oil

3 cups water

1 cup orange juice

2 tablespoons lemon juice

1 tablespoon soy sauce

1 cup chicken bouillon

2 tablespoons brown sugar

2 tablespoons cornstarch

1/2 teaspoon garlic salt

2/3 cup finely chopped carrots

1/4 cup chopped green onions

Hot cooked rice

Dredge shanks in flour, salt and pepper. Brown on all sides in hot oil. Add water, cover and cook over low heat 1 hour or until meat is almost tender. Drain.

Combine orange juice, lemon juice, soy sauce and bouillon with brown sugar, cornstarch and garlic salt. Add to lamb with carrots and green onions. Simmer over low heat, stirring, until vegetables are tender-crisp and sauce is translucent. Serve over hot rice. Makes 4 servings.

INDONESIAN LAMB KEBABS

(Satay Kambing)

3 shallots, peeled and finely chopped

2 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed

3 tablespoons dark soy sauce

1/2 teaspoon crushed red pepper

2 teaspoons ground coriander

2 teaspoons ground ginger

2 tablespoons vinegar

2 tablespoons oil

3 pounds boned leg or shoulder of lamb, cut into 3/4-inch cubes

Peanut Sauce

Combine shallots, garlic, soy sauce, red pepper, coriander, ginger, vinegar and oil in large, deep bowl. Add lamb cubes. Mix until lamb is thoroughly coated with spices. Cover and refrigerate at least 3 hours or up to 12 hours.

Thread lamb cubes on 12 wooden or metal skewers. Grill over hot coals until brown on outside but pink in center, 4 to 6 minutes on each side. Serve with Peanut Sauce. Makes 12 kebabs.

Note: Beef, preferably tender cut of steak is excellent grilled as satays, too.

Peanut Sauce

(Bambu Satay)

1 1/2 cups shelled peanuts

2 tablespoons peanut oil

1/2 onion, peeled and chopped

1 clove garlic, peeled

1/2 teaspoon crushed dried chiles

1 tablespoon ground ginger

1 teaspoon brown sugar

2 tablespoons lemon juice

2 cups hot water

Salt, pepper

Saute peanuts in oil in skillet, stirring constantly, until browned. Transfer to food processor bowl or blender. Add onion, garlic, chiles, ginger, brown sugar and lemon juice. Puree until very smooth, adding some hot water, if necessary. Work in remaining hot water, adding enough to make sauce that is thick enough to coat spoon.

Transfer sauce to saucepan. Simmer 2 minutes, stirring. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Peanut Sauce can be made up to 2 weeks ahead and stored, covered, in refrigerator. Makes 3 cups sauce, or enough for 12 servings.