Ocean Ave. Seafood Menu Quite a Catch

At first glance you can’t believe that the place is open, the building still looks so raw and new. Then you realize that there is a big bar, and that it is packed with people. On second glance you notice that the bar actually curves outdoors, and that half the people sitting at it are basking in the balmy evening air. And then you look inside again, beyond the bar, and discover that there is a huge restaurant lurking back there filled with warm wood and a serious-looking kitchen. And so you ask to see the menu--and you are hooked.

Ocean Ave. Seafood, 1401 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica, (213) 394-5669, has an extremely appealing menu. “We print it daily,” our waitress said earnestly, handing us a huge sheet of paper printed with what seemed like hundreds of fish dishes. There were at least five kinds of oysters and a couple of kinds of clams. There were tile fish and ahi, swordfish, spearfish, salmon, crab cakes . . . the list went on and on. You could have these creatures baked or grilled, fried or steamed; there was even a clambake for the truly hungry. The wine list was pretty enticing, too.

It all sounded wonderful. I can’t remember seeing so many different varieties of fish on a menu in California. Unfortunately the printed word was a lot more impressive than the reality. The concept is good--but Ocean Ave. Seafood needs a little time to test the waters.