FOR THE FOURTH DAY OF JULY...

Barbecuing is like cooking chili. Each devotee is absolutely, incontrovertibly convinced he or she does it best. It is a personal accomplishment that can be equaled by no one and, of course, each is equally certain that his or her personal recipe for barbecue sauce (usually a tightly held secret) cannot be matched by anyone anywhere.

We are talking fanatics here. These are grilling and smoke-cooking experts who have no peers. There’s only one way to grill or smoke foods for this group . . . and that’s their way!

But what about those of us who like to try new foods on the grill and new techniques? Should we skulk around our patios and light up the barbecue only when the wind is blowing upwind from where the neighborhood expert lives? Not at all. Go right ahead and light up the charcoal. Do your own thing. Chances are good that that educated neighborhood nose will be drawn to your backyard to see what can be learned. And who knows, maybe you can teach the expert a thing or two.

For the last six months or so, I’ve been collecting interesting and unusual recipes for outdoor barbecuing. Friends from all over the country have shared their favorites and, believe me, barbecue is not the same everywhere. I even spent a weekend fighting my way through the mud and smoke of a true Mid-South pork barbecue cook-off in Memphis during the big Memphis in May celebration.

This was smoke-barbecuing at its best, but it was not for the casual cook counting pennies. The least expensive of all the smoke ovens used tallied in at between $1,200 and $1,400, and most of them were so large they had to be carted around on trailers or trucks.

All cooking was based on three pork cuts: whole hog, pork shoulder and ribs. At judging time, showmanship was an important part of the event, and some went so far as to serve slabs of ribs on silver platters and offer the judges chilled glasses of Champagne. When it came to the cooking, however, that’s where the game-playing stopped.

Each team of barbecuers had its resident expert whose instructions were followed without question. The results meant a lot of marvelous tasting for those lucky enough to sample the various offerings.

It also was interesting to see how widely barbecue differs across the country. Throughout the Southeast and Mid-South, pork is the most popular choice of meat. In Texas and across the Southwest, as well as in the cattle states of the North, beef is the favorite barbecue choice. In the Northwest and most coastal regions, fish is a favorite, whereas chicken rates high as a popular grill item all across the country.

In some parts of the country the word barbecue is synonymous with long, slow, covered smoke-cooking, usually of large pieces of meat. In others, notably the West, barbecuing tends to mean tossing a steak or slab of ribs or half-broiler on an open grill. And the seasonings differ greatly. Southeasterners who barbecue a lot of pork and chicken prefer a mustard-vinegar style of basting sauce. No tomatoes for them. As you move across the country to the Mid-South and Midwest, however, tomato tends to be the dominant flavor in most basting sauces, which also are much sweeter than those used elsewhere. (See related story on Page 29.)

One of the most unusual barbecue sauces we ran across was a basting sauce that came from Charlotte Hansen, food editor of the Jamestown (N.D.) Sun. “This is the sauce used in the famous Alaskan Salmon Bake at the Alaskaland recreation area in Fairbanks, Alaska,” Hansen said. “Everyone questions it because of the brown sugar. But we’ve tried it at home and it really works.”

We tried it too, and although it certainly is an unusual choice for a fish basting sauce, our tasters heartily approved of the results.

In some parts of the country, barbecuers prefer to marinate meats to be grilled in wet marinades for 30 minutes to overnight before grilling them. In other areas, a dry rub is preferred. But almost everywhere, a good barbecuer will admonish you not to baste with any type of tomato or sugar-laden barbecue sauce until close to the end of the cooking time. Most of the thicker sauces do contain some form of sweetener, whether it’s molasses, honey or sugar, and these ingredients will burn quickly. So wait until whatever you’re grilling or smoking is almost done before adding them.

The way barbecue is served is still another interesting regional characteristic. In Memphis, for instance, the pork shoulder chefs smoke-cooked the shoulders for hours (almost an hour per pound by most reckonings). It was all done by indirect heat, and the meat stayed moist and shrunk very little. By the time the pork was considered done, it shredded easily, thus making it possible for the cooks to remove any fat that remained. The barbecue sauce was not added to the meat but was slathered over half a hamburger bun and then the shredded pork was heaped on that bun half. A large spoonful of a cream-style coleslaw was placed on the other half of the bun, and it was up to the diner to figure out how to get the two halves together and eat this meal-in-one concoction.

A variation of this type of service is one I was raised with in the Midwest. We smoke-cook beef brisket in a foil package with onions and beer until it shreds. But the difference in the way we serve it is that we mix the barbecue sauce--a slightly sweet tomato-based sauce--in with the shredded beef before spooning it onto the bun. And sometimes, particularly if the shredded and sauced beef is soupy, we prefer to serve the slaw on the side. It does take a while to do this type of barbecue, but the flavor is out of this world.

With the three-day holiday coming up, this will be a good weekend to try some new ideas on your family grill. Just remember that no two barbecue units work quite the same, so you may have to adjust the following recipes slightly to make them work on your particular barbecue.

CHARLOTTE HANSEN’S ALASKAN BARBECUED SALMON

2 ounces butter or margarine

2 cups brown sugar, packed

2 tablespoons lemon juice, about

2 dashes dill weed

Dash cayenne pepper

6 (1-inch-thick) salmon steaks or fillets

Green onions

Salt, pepper

Combine butter, brown sugar, lemon juice, dill weed and cayenne in saucepan. Heat over medium-low heat until sugar dissolves. Sauce should be consistency of pancake batter. Add lemon juice if too thick.

Place salmon steaks on well-oiled grill over hot coals. Place green onion stalks on grill. Cook fish 5 to 7 minutes on one side. Turn fish and onions and brush sauce lightly over grilled side of fish. Cook another 5 to 7 minutes or just until salmon can be flaked with fork. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve fish with onions on side. Makes 6 servings.

SMOKED BARBECUED BEEF BRISKET

1 (3-pound) beef brisket

1 tablespoon dry mustard

2 tablespoons brown sugar

1 teaspoon chili powder

1/2 teaspoon ground ginger

Salt, pepper

2 large onions, peeled and sliced

1 to 2 (12-ounce) cans beer

Bottled or homemade barbecue sauce

3 cups cream-style coleslaw

10 to 12 hamburger buns or Kaiser rolls, heated

Trim any excess fat from brisket. Combine dry mustard, brown sugar, chili powder and ginger and rub into meat on all sides. Sprinkle meat lightly with salt and pepper.

Place 3/4 of onions in bottom of foil pan large enough to hold brisket and onions easily. Place brisket on onions and top with remaining onions. Place pan in center of double sheet of heavy foil large enough to wrap around brisket and pan and seal well. Add 1 can beer to pan, then bring foil up over meat and wrap, sealing well so no steam or liquid can escape.

If using a deep smoker-barbecue unit, place foil package on center of grill rack 10 to 12 inches from coals that have heated to ashy gray stage. If using shallower closed grill unit, coals should be placed for indirect heat (around sides of grill and not directly under meat). Close grill cover and open top and bottom vents just enough to maintain 250- to 300-degree (low to medium) heat.

Replace charcoal as needed during cooking period. Cook brisket 4 to 5 hours or until meat shreds when flaked with fork. Open package after about 3 hours to see if more liquid is needed. If so, add beer, making sure some of liquid gets under meat. Reseal package well and return to grill rack.

When meat can be shredded, open package and fold foil back. Add drained water-soaked hickory chips to coals. Add additional beer to meat if liquid has cooked out of pan. Return meat pan in foil to grill rack, close grill cover and cook meat 45 minutes to 1 hour longer, adding hickory chips once or twice, if desired.

To serve, remove meat, onions and liquid to baking dish. Cut brisket in half lengthwise and shred thoroughly, discarding any fat. Stir in barbecue sauce to taste. Mixture should be fairly moist. Spoon large dollop coleslaw on half of bun and spoon barbecued meat on other half. Makes about 10 to 12 servings.

BUFFALO CHICKEN GRILL

2 chickens, halved or quartered

Salt, pepper

Oil

1/4 cup butter or margarine

2 to 5 tablespoons hot pepper sauce

1 to 2 tablespoons white vinegar

Blue Cheese Dressing

Celery sticks

Sprinkle chicken pieces with salt and pepper. Oil lightly. Grill over medium-hot coals until done, about 15 to 20 minutes on each side.

Melt butter in saucepan and add hot pepper sauce and vinegar. Remove barbecued chickens from grill, place in shallow baking dish and pour butter mixture over them. Turn to coat chicken well. Serve with Blue Cheese Dressing and celery sticks. Makes 4 to 8 servings.

Note: When full amount of hot pepper sauce is used, chicken will be very spicy, so it’s advisable to add gradually until desired degree of heat is reached.

Blue Cheese Dressing

1 cup mayonnaise

2 tablespoons finely chopped onion

1 teaspoon minced garlic

1/4 cup finely chopped parsley

1/2 cup sour cream

1 tablespoon lemon juice

1 tablespoon white vinegar

1/4 cup crumbled blue cheese

Salt, optional

Freshly ground black pepper

Cayenne pepper

Combine mayonnaise, onion, garlic, parsley, sour cream, lemon juice, vinegar and blue cheese. Add salt, pepper and cayenne to taste in mixing bowl. Mix and chill 1 hour or longer. Makes about 2 1/2 cups.

LEMON-GLAZED BARBECUED TURKEY THIGHS

4 (1/2-pound to 3/4-pound) turkey thighs

1/4 cup oil

1/2 cup white wine

1 tablespoon fresh rosemary leaves

2 tablespoon soy sauce

1/4 cup lemon juice

Salt, pepper

Rinse turkey thighs and pat dry. Combine oil, wine, rosemary, soy sauce and lemon juice and season to taste with salt and pepper. Place turkey thighs in plastic bag and pour oil mixture over. Close and seal bag. Refrigerate, turning occasionally, 6 to 8 hours or overnight.

At grilling time, remove thighs from bag, reserving marinade. Place thighs on squares of heavy foil, dull side out, and wrap loosely but well. Place on grill over slow coals and grill, turning occasionally, about 45 minutes to 1 hour. Add charcoal to grill as needed to maintain temperature.

While thighs are grilling, place marinade in small saucepan and place pan on grill to heat through. Remove thighs from foil and place directly on grill rack. Baste with marinade. Continue cooking, turning once and basting every 5 minutes until thighs are tender and cooked through, about 30 minutes. Makes 4 servings.

MARINATED STEAK STRIP APPETIZERS

1 pound (1-inch-thick) boneless sirloin steak

1/4 cup oil

1/2 cup soy sauce

1/4 cup dry white wine

1 clove garlic, minced

1 teaspoon sugar

Chill meat until almost frozen, then slice in thin strips across grain. Place meat in plastic bag with oil, soy sauce, wine, garlic and sugar. Seal bag and shake to coat meat strips well with marinade. Refrigerate mixture, turning occasionally, several hours or overnight.

To grill, remove meat from bag, reserving marinade. Thread meat strips on metal skewers or well-soaked bamboo skewers. Grill over hot coals, turning frequently, until done as desired. Brush with marinade occasionally as strips cook. Makes 8 to 10 appetizer servings.

GRILLED HAM AND ORCHARD SAUCE

3 large cooked ham slices, cut 1/2 inch thick

3 plums

3 peaches

1/2 cup orange juice

1 teaspoon grated lemon peel

1 tablespoon sugar

1/4 teaspoon ground ginger

With sharp knife, slash any fat around edges of ham slices. Place on grill rack 3 to 5 inches above hot coals. Cook 10 to 14 minutes on each side or until lightly browned and heated through.

Meanwhile, halve plums and discard pits. Peel and halve peaches, discarding pits. Arrange plums and peaches in skillet and add orange juice, lemon peel, sugar and ginger. Heat at edge of grill about 10 minutes, turning fruit carefully with wide spatula once or twice. To serve, cut ham slices in halves crosswise and top with fruit sauce. Makes 6 servings.

PINEAPPLE-GLAZED LAMB SPARERIBS

1 (18-ounce) can pineapple juice

1/2 cup chopped fresh or canned pineapple

1/2 cup brown sugar, packed

1/2 cup chicken broth

1/4 cup soy sauce

1/4 cup white wine vinegar

2 tablespoons minced fresh mint leaves

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 clove garlic, crushed

3 (2- to 2 1/2-pound) whole-section lamb spareribs

3 tablespoons cornstarch

1/4 cup water

Combine pineapple juice, chopped pineapple, brown sugar, broth, soy sauce, vinegar, mint leaves, salt and garlic. Marinate lamb ribs in mixture, turning occasionally, several hours or overnight.

Remove lamb, reserving marinade. Cook lamb over hot coals about 5 inches from heat source until tender, 15 to 20 minutes on each side. Baste frequently during cooking with marinade.

Blend cornstarch with water. Just before serving, bring remaining marinade to boil in small saucepan. Add cornstarch mixture and heat, stirring, until thickened. Cut spareribs into 2 rib portions and serve with sauce. Makes about 16 servings.

LAMB SHISH KEBABS

3 pounds boneless leg or shoulder of lamb

1/2 cup olive oil

1/4 cup red wine vinegar

2 tablespoons lemon juice

1 clove garlic, minced

1 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon black pepper

1/4 teaspoon ground thyme

1/2 teaspoon dried mint leaves

2 green peppers

2 medium onions

Cut meat into 1 1/2-inch cubes. Combine olive oil, vinegar, lemon juice, garlic, salt, pepper, thyme and mint. Pour over lamb and marinate 2 hours.

Remove seeds from green peppers and cut into 1-inch chunks. Peel onions and cut into wedges. Remove lamb from marinade, reserving marinade. Alternate lamb chunks, green peppers and onions on metal skewers. Grill, turning occasionally, over hot coals about 5 inches from heat source until tender and desired doneness is reached. Brush occasionally with marinade. Makes 8 servings.

TERIYAKI PORK CHOPS

3/4 cup soy sauce

1/4 cup lemon juice

1 tablespoon chili sauce

1 tablespoon brown sugar, packed

1 clove garlic, minced

6 rib or loin pork chops, cut 1 1/4 inches thick

Mix soy sauce, lemon juice, chili sauce, brown sugar and garlic. Place chops in glass baking dish and add soy sauce mixture. Cover and let marinate in refrigerator 3 to 6 hours or overnight, turning chops occasionally.

Remove chops, reserving marinade. Place chops on grill and cook about 5 inches from heat source 12 to 15 minutes per side or until chops test done. Turn chops and brush occasionally with marinade. Makes 6 servings.

Food styling by MINNIE BERNARDINO and DONNA DEANE / Los Angeles Times