COOKING & ENTERTAINING WITH STYLE : California Collaboration

Is there a perfect menu? A meal so superb that it fulfills an epicure’s exacting expectations? We think so. Particularly if you start with not one but six superb chefs and persuade each to provide a single course for a once-in-a-lifetime meal. To prove that such an objective is within reach, we contacted half a dozen of Southern California’s finest young chefs to determine what they would prepare under such circumstances. The result: A five-course meal (we asked two chefs for entree suggestions so as to provide a choice) that displays the magnificent creativity of each of these culinary artists at his or her best. The surprising part of this project--and certainly a bonus for the non-professional cook--is that none of the recipes provided was too difficult to prepare at home, nor did any require ingredients available only to restaurateurs. And if that isn’t fantasy realized, we don’t know what is.

FOOD STYLIST: NORMAN STEWART

DINO BAGLIONI’S TRE COLORE PASTA

SERVES 8

Chitarra al Pesto

Penne al Pomodoro

Fettucine alla Panna

Prepare Chitarra al Pesto, Penne al Pomodoro and Fettucine alla Panna and keep them warm. At serving time, arrange about 1/2 cup each on each plate.

Chitarra al Pesto

2 1/2-ounce packages fresh

basil leaves, minced

3 cloves garlic, minced

1 1/2 tablespoons grated

pecorino cheese

1/2 cup olive oil

2 tablespoons pine nuts

5 ounces angel-hair pasta

cup whipping cream

1 teaspoon butter

cup grated Parmesan cheese

Combine basil, garlic, pecorino cheese, olive oil and pine nuts in a small bowl. Cook pasta in boiling salted water to al dente state. Drain and keep warm. Heat cream and butter in small saucepan until mixture just begins to boil. Stir in basil mixture and heat through. Remove from stove and add pasta, tossing gently to coat thoroughly. Add Parmesan and toss again. Serve in half cup portions as of appetizer course. If desired, garnish each portion with an additional fresh basil leaf.

Penne al Pomodoro

2 tablespoons minced onion

1/2 small stalk celery, minced

1 small carrot, minced

1 large clove garlic, minced

cup olive oil

1 1-pound, 12-ounce can Italian tomatoes

cup white wine

10 fresh basil leaves, minced

Salt, pepper

Red pepper flakes

1/2 pound penne pasta

2 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese

Saute onion, celery, carrot and garlic in olive oil over low heat for about 15 minutes or until vegetables are very soft but not browned. Stir in tomatoes, cover, and continue cooking for 20 to 25 minutes. Stir mixture frequently, breaking up tomatoes with a wooden spoon as they cook. Add white wine about halfway through cooking period. Add basil and season to taste with salt, pepper and red-pepper flakes. Cook 20 to 25 minutes longer, stirring frequently.

Cook pasta in boiling salted water to al dente state. Drain well. Remove sauce from heat and toss as much as desired with pasta. Sprinkle with Parmesan and toss again. Serve in half cup portions as of appetizer course.

Fettucine alla Panna

1/2 pound fettucine

2 1/2 cups whipping cream

1 tablespoon butter

Salt, pepper

1 cup grated Parmesan cheese

Cook fettucine in boiling salted water to al dente state. Drain well and keep warm. Heat cream and butter together in small saucepan. Let mixture boil until slightly thickened and reduced to about half. Remove from heat, and season to taste with salt and pepper. Combine with pasta and toss to coat well. Add Parmesan and toss again just before serving. Serve in half cup portions as of appetizer course.

PATRICK HEALY’S DOVER SOLE AND MUSHROOMS

SERVES 4

4 shallots, finely chopped

3 tablespoons unsalted butter

4 4-ounce Dover sole fillets

4 medium shiitake mushrooms, stemmed

2 cups white veal stock or chicken stock

2 medium zucchini, cut in small cubes

1 bunch fresh basil leaves, chopped

Salt, pepper

2 tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped

Madeira-Shiitake Essence

Saute shallots in 1 tablespoon butter until soft, but not browned. Let cool. Lightly baste sole fillets with shallot mixture and roll up from short end of fillets. Fasten rolls with wood pick.

Poach mushrooms in simmering stock until very tender. Drain mushrooms and set aside, reserving stock for use in Madeira-Shiitake Essence.

Cook zucchini in boiling salted water to cover until soft but still green, about 8 to 10 minutes. Drain zucchini and return to pan. Cook over medium heat, stirring frequently until most of moisture has evaporated. Press with spoon until zucchini is partially pureed, then add basil and remaining 2 tablespoons butter. Season to taste with salt and pepper and set aside.

Steam or poach sole fillets until cooked through, 3 to 5 minutes.

To serve, spread zucchini in center of plate and sprinkle with chopped tomatoes. Arrange sole fillets in center over zucchini-tomato mixture and top with mushroom cap or sliced mushroom. Spoon Madeira-Shiitake Essence around edges.

Madeira-Shiitake Essence

2 shallots, finely chopped

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

1 cup Madeira wine

Reserved shiitake cooking liquid

Salt, pepper

Saute shallots in butter just until slightly softened. Add Madeira and, stirring occasionally, reduce by . Add reserved shiitake cooking liquid and reduce again by . Season to taste with salt and pepper.

CINDY BLACK’S BELGIAN ENDIVE SALAD WITH GRAPES AND TOASTED WALNUTS

SERVES 4 TO 6

2 heads Belgian endive

1 small head butter lettuce

1 cup mixed red and green seedless grapes, halved

Dressing

4 to 6 clusters red and green grapes

1/2 cup lightly salted toasted

walnuts

Clean and separate endive and lettuce leaves. Set aside 5 or 6 of the larger endive leaves. Combine remaining endive leaves, lettuce and halved grapes in mixing bowl. Add Dressing and toss lightly. Arrange reserved endive leaves around edges of platter. Heap salad mixture in center and garnish platter with grape clusters. Sprinkle salad with toasted walnuts. Makes 4 to 6 servings.

Dressing

1 teaspoon minced shallot

cup balsamic vinegar

cup white grape juice

1 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon coarse black

pepper

1/2 cup walnut oil

Whisk shallots, vinegar, grape juice, salt and pepper together. Slowly whisk in oil. Makes about 1 cup.

LYDIA SHIRE’S RABBIT AND CANNELLINI BEANS WITH HOT OREGANO VINAIGRETTE

SERVES 6

3 rabbits

6 tablespoons fresh oregano

leaves, minced

6 tablespoons fresh thyme

leaves

6 small cloves garlic, minced

6 shallots, minced

Olive oil

2 stalks celery, finely chopped

1 large leek, finely chopped

1 small onion, finely chopped

2 small carrots, finely chopped

1/2 cup white wine

4 cups chicken stock

4 cups water, about

Salt, pepper

2 tablespoons butter, about

Belgian Endive

Sauteed Spinach

Beans in Rabbit Stock

Baby carrots, cooked, optional

Separate loins and hind legs of rabbits, reserving carcass and forelegs for stock. Combine oregano, thyme, garlic and shallots. Rub mixture over loins and legs of rabbit and place in shallow baking dish. Pour 3/4 cup olive oil over seasoned rabbit parts, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate, turning occasionally, several hours or overnight.

Meanwhile, chop rabbit parts reserved for stock and place in roasting pan with celery, leek, onion and carrots. Roast at 400 degrees 1 hour or until bones are lightly browned. Place browned bones and vegetables in large stock pot. Deglaze roasting pan with wine over high heat, stirring to loosen browned bits. Add mixture to stock pot. Add chicken stock and 4 cups water, cover and simmer mixture 3 to 5 hours. Add more water, if needed. Reserve rabbit stock for use in preparing beans.

To prepare rabbit, remove from marinade and season lightly with salt and pepper. In one large skillet or two smaller ones, brown rabbit legs in mixture of butter and remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil. Brown legs on all sides, then place in lightly greased roasting pan and roast at 350 degrees about 15 minutes or until cooked through. When legs are almost done, saute loins over high heat in same skillet. Add more butter and olive oil if needed. Brown loins on one side, 3 to 4 minutes, then turn and cook about 1 to 2 minutes longer. Loins should be medium rare. Remove from heat and let rest for about 3 minutes.

For each serving, arrange Belgian Endive around edge of plate. Spoon Sauteed Spinach on one side of center of plate and spoon Beans in Rabbit Stock on other side. Add baby carrots, if desired. Arrange 1 rabbit leg over spinach. Slice 1 loin on an extreme bias and fan slices around beans. Heat reserved Vinaigrette (from Belgian Endive recipe) and drizzle over rabbit.

Belgian Endive

4 heads Belgian endive

Vinaigrette

Wash and dry endive, then slice on an angle into 1/2-inch strips. Wrap in damp towel and set aside until serving time.

At serving time, toss with about 1 cup Vinaigrette before arranging around edges of serving plate. Reserve remaining Vinaigrette to drizzle over rabbit.

Vinaigrette

1 1/2-ounce package fresh oregano

6 shallots, minced

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

2 tablespoons lemon juice

2 tablespoons champagne vinegar

3/4 cup olive oil

Salt, pepper

Discard any stems from oregano, then combine leaves with shallots, mustard, lemon juice and vinegar. Slowly whisk in olive oil. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Makes about 1 cups.

Sauteed Spinach

2 to 3 bunches fresh spinach

1 clove garlic, minced

2 tablespoons olive oil

Wash spinach well, remove stems and pat leaves dry. At serving time, saute garlic briefly in olive oil. Add spinach and saute just until leaves begin to wilt, about 1 minute. Makes 6 servings.

Beans in Rabbit Stock

1/2 pound dried cannellini or great northern beans

1 bay leaf

Reserved rabbit stock

2 cups water

cup minced carrots

cup minced leek

cup minced celery

1 tablespoon butter

Salt, pepper

6 2-inch pieces marrow bones

1 cup red wine

6 tablespoons soft bread crumbs

Soak beans in water to cover overnight. Drain and place in saucepan with bay leaf. Cover with 2 cups rabbit stock and 2 cups water. Simmer slowly, covered, for about 2 hours or until beans are tender, adding more rabbit stock as needed. Saute minced carrots, leek and celery briefly in butter. Add to beans and cook 5 to 10 minutes longer. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Prepare marrow bones by soaking in water to cover 1 hour. Bring red wine to boil in saucepan. Reduce to about 3/4 cup over high heat. Drain marrow bones and with thin knife or marrow spoon, extract marrow from center. Discard bones and add marrow to wine. Cook until marrow is tender, about 5 minutes. Drain marrow and set aside. At serving time, dot top of hot beans with marrow and sprinkle with bread crumbs. Place pan under broiler until crumbs are crispy and brown. Makes 6 servings.

JOHN DOWNEY’S GRILLED DUCK WITH FRESH PAPAYA CHUTNEY

SERVES 6

2 cups water

Zest from 1 orange

1 cup orange juice

Zest from 1 lemon

1 cup lemon juice

1 cup soy sauce

1 small onion, chopped

1 carrot, chopped

2 stalks celery, chopped

2 tablespoons juniper berries

3 bay leaves

1 teaspoon dried sage

1/2 teaspoon crushed thyme

6 cloves garlic, peeled and flattened

2 teaspoons black peppercorns

1 tablespoon dried tarragon

10 whole cloves

1 tablespoon coarse salt

3 5-pound ducks

Fresh Papaya Chutney

1 bunch cilantro

Combine water, orange zest and juice, lemon zest and juice, soy sauce, onion, carrot, celery, juniper berries, bay leaves, sage, thyme, garlic, peppercorns, tarragon, cloves and coarse salt in a large kettle. Bring to a boil, cover, reduce heat and simmer mixture 15 minutes. Remove from heat and cool completely.

Place one duck on its back and, beginning at cavity, cut horizontally completely through bird along one side at slight downward angle, cutting just above thigh and below breast. (Cut just above wing, leaving it attached to thigh-leg portion.) Repeat on other side. Move thigh-leg portion of duck to edge of table and bend thigh-leg portion down, snapping backbone to separate wing end from thigh end. Cut through skin and discard wings and attached backbone or reserve for other use.

Repeat with remaining ducks. You will now have 6 meaty duck portions and 3 wing and backbone parts for soup or some other use.

When marinade is cool, place breast and thigh-leg duck parts in glass or ceramic container large enough to hold them. Pour marinade over ducks, making sure meaty portions are well coated with mixture. Cover container with plastic wrap and refrigerate for three to five days, turning duck parts once a day, making sure meaty portions are well covered by marinade.

When ready to cook, remove duck parts from container and discard marinade. Working first with thigh-leg portions, truss legs of each duck together loosely with cotton string. Place leg sections of ducks on rack in roasting pan and roast at 425 degrees 1 hour 15 minutes. Duck will be very brown and crisp. Cool completely and trim and discard any backbone section remaining attached to thigh-leg portions.

While legs are cooking, bone breast meat from rib sections, retaining as much skin covering meat as possible. Discard any excess fat and pierce skin covering breasts with fork or paring knife in several places to allow interior fat to drain off during cooking.

To cook breasts, place them skin side toward heat under broiler and cook for about 7 minutes or until meat begins to firm to slight pressure. Turn and cook an additional 4 minutes for rare. Remove breasts to platter and keep warm. Place thigh-leg portions skin side toward heat source and grill briefly, until skin crisps up and meat heats through. Remove from broiler and separate legs from thighs.

To serve, cut 1 breast portion across grain into slices and fan out on plate. Arrange 1 thigh and 1 leg next to several spoonfuls of Fresh Papaya Chutney on same plate and garnish with sprig of cilantro.

Fresh Papaya Chutney

2 1/2 pounds ripe papaya, peeled, seeded and cubed

2 ounces ginger root, peeled and grated

2 Anaheim chiles, seeded and julienned

1 sweet red pepper, seeded and julienned

2 small red onions, julienned

1/2 jalapeno chile with seeds, chopped

1/2 bunch fresh mint leaves, chopped

1 bunch cilantro, chopped

cup honey

1/2 cup lime juice

1 cup rice wine vinegar

Combine papaya, ginger root, Anaheim chiles, red pepper, onions, jalapeno, mint and cilantro in large mixing bowl. Combine honey, lime juice and vinegar in small saucepan over medium heat. Cook until reduced by half. Cool thoroughly.

Combine cooled honey mixture with fruit, mixing gently but thoroughly and let stand at least 1 hour to blend flavors. Makes 16 1/2-cup servings.

Note: Fresh peaches or mangoes may be substituted for the papaya.

JOAQUIM SPLICHAL’S APPLE AND CORN TART

SERVES 12 TO 24

Butter

Sugar

cup water

4 apples

Lemon juice

1 cup fresh corn kernels

Filo dough

Apricot Sauce

Bring cup butter, 1/2 cup plus 1 tablespoon sugar and water to boil in large non-stick skillet. Let boil, without stirring, until caramelized, 5 to 10 minutes. Meanwhile, peel and core apples. Cut french-fry style into -inch thick strips. Sprinkle with lemon juice. When sugar mixture has caramelized, add apples and corn. Cook over low heat about 15 minutes or until apple juices are caramelized and fruit and corn are tender.

Stack 3 sheets of filo dough on cutting board or counter and brush top sheet well with melted butter. Cut 4-inch circles from filo stack and sprinkle lightly with sugar. Repeat with additional filo dough until you have 20 to 24 circles. Place circles on baking sheet and bake at 425 degrees about 3 minutes or until golden brown. With spatula, place filo circle on dessert plate, top with 2 tablespoons apple-corn mixture and serve with Apricot Sauce.

Apricot Sauce

1 8 3/4-ounce can apricot halves in syrup

pound dried apricots

Juice of 1 lemon

Place canned apricots and their syrup and dried apricots in small saucepan. Bring mixture to boil, cover, reduce heat and simmer about 5 minutes or until dried apricots are softened. Place mixture in blender and puree. Strain mixture and stir in lemon juice. Makes about 1 cup sauce.

JOACHIM SPLICHAL’S CORN ICE CREAM AND CORN TUILES

SERVES 12

1 10-ounce package frozen corn

3 cups sugar

1 cup water

1 quart milk

1 vanilla bean

12 egg yolks

8 1/2 cups whipping cream

Corn Tuiles

In skillet, combine corn, 1 cup sugar and water. Cook, stirring, at low temperature for approximately 30 minutes or until corn kernels are slightly brown. Remove from skillet, strain off syrup and roll kernels in 1/2 cup sugar. Set aside.

To make ice cream, bring milk and vanilla bean to boil. Mix egg yolks and 3/4 cup sugar. Add cream. Refrigerate mixture to cool. Fold in 1 cup candied corn, reserving 1/2 cup for Corn Tuiles. Following manufacturer’s instructions, freeze in ice cream freezer. Serve with Corn Tuiles.

Corn Tuiles

pound butter

1/2 plus 1 tablespoon sugar

4 egg whites

1 cup plus 3 tablespoons flour

cup warm water

1/2 cup candied corn

In small saucepan, melt butter. Set aside to cool. Combine sugar, egg whites and flour and stir into butter. Stir in candied corn. Thin with water if batter is too thick. Drop mixture by teaspoonful or tablespoonful (depending on size of cookie desired) onto non-stick baking sheets. Spread evenly with small spatula. Bake at 350 degrees about 8 to 10 minutes until cookies are browned and crisp. Cool 1 minute, then carefully remove cookies from baking sheet with spatula and shape over rolling pin or bottom of small custard cup or other desired shape. Let cookie cool. Slide off and repeat with remaining cookies.