Catch a Glimpse of Catalina’s Buffaloes

In 1602, when Vizcaino’s ship sailed toward the mountains of Catalina, the explorer was certain he had reached two islands. From a distance, the mountainous land on the east end appears to be separated from a smaller portion on the west end; in fact, it’s an optical illusion. The eye is tricked by a low-lying isthmus, the narrowest section of Catalina. Catalina Harbor lies on the ocean side of this isthmus, Isthmus Cove on the channel side, and together this area is called Two Harbors.

As the family of chewing gum magnate and island owner William Wrigley opened Catalina to tourism, Two Harbors pursued a destiny apart from Avalon. In the 1920s and 1930s, it was a peaceful sanctuary for film celebrities and the Los Angeles elite who could indulge in the luxury of yachting.

This hike takes you across the island from the Pacific side to the channel side and offers fine views and a chance to watch buffaloes. Your destination is Two Harbors, popular with campers, boaters and fishermen.

Transportation logistics for this hike are a bit complex, but the route itself is easy to follow.

Directions to trailhead: Several boat companies offer ferry service to Catalina, with departures from San Diego, Newport Beach, Long Beach and San Pedro. Among them is Catalina Cruises, which operates out of San Pedro and Long Beach. The 26-mile crossing to Catalina takes about two hours. Catalina Express, which offers the fastest boats (90 minutes to Avalon), also operates out of both Long Beach and San Pedro. For more information about ferryboat schedules and island services and accommodations, call the Catalina Island Chamber of Commerce, (213) 510-1520.

If you intend to hike into the Catalina back country, you must secure a (free) hiking permit from the Los Angeles County Department of Parks and Recreation. The department operates an information center in Island Plaza, 213 Catalina St., Avalon. You can pick up a trail map here and obtain your permit. For more information about hiking the Catalina backcountry, call (213) 510-0688.

Permit in hand, you must now secure transportation to Little Harbor. Behind the information center is the office for Safari Tours, (213) 510-0303. This company operates a shuttle service from Avalon to Little Harbor and Two Harbors. On weekend mornings, the first shuttle usually leaves Avalon at 9:30 a.m. It’s a little more than an hour’s ride to Little Harbor. Fare from Avalon to Little Harbor is $9; the cost from Two Harbors back to Avalon is $12.50.

A very pleasant way to return to Avalon from Two Harbors is via the Catalina Cruises ferry. For more information about this scenic voyage call (213) 510-BOAT.

The hike: Your walk begins at a former stage stop, Little Harbor, now a popular campground and anchorage. You join Little Harbor Road and ascend higher and higher into Little Springs Canyon.

Buffaloes graze both sides of the canyon and two reservoirs have been developed for the animals. In 1924, when Hollywood movie makers were filming Zane Grey’s classic Western, “The Vanishing American,” 14 buffaloes were brought to the island. Recapturing the buffaloes after filming proved impossible, so the beasts were left to roam. The animals adapted well to life on Catalina and quickly multiplied. Today’s population is held to 400-500, the ideal number for the available pasturage.

Keep in mind the buffaloes can be dangerous. They may look like placid, domesticated animals, but they aren’t. Many people in Montana and other areas are injured by buffaloes every year, so if you see one, avoid it.

At an unsigned junction, one mile past Lower Buffalo Reservoir, you can bear left on Banning House Road, which leads 3 miles to Two Harbors. (Little Harbor Road continues north, then west to Two Harbors, if you prefer to stick to this road, which offers the easier of the two treks to Two Harbors.)

Rough Banning House Road ascends very steeply up a canyon roamed by wild boars. Here again, be aware that these are wild animals, although boars are not likely to stick around in your presence.

At the wind-swept head of the canyon, you are rewarded with superb views of the twin harbors, Catalina Harbor and Isthmus Cove, and you’ll also be able to see both the eastern and western fringes of the island.

A steep, northeasterly descent brings you to the outskirts of Two Harbors. You’ll have no trouble improvising a route past ranchettes and private clubs down to the ferry building.

Little Harbor Trail

Little Harbor to Two Harbors. Seven miles one way; 800-foot elevation gain.