FOOD : Winning Game : Gaylord’s Indian Quail and Cornish Hen Are Fit for a Maharajah

ONLY A RARE few can go hunting with the Maharajahs, but everyone can dine in royal Indian style with these game recipes, which have been matched to American ingredients. Instead of partridge or pheasant there is Cornish game hen, which is combined with exotically seasoned basmati rice in a northern Indian pullao . Quail needs no substitute because it is increasingly available in Southern California markets.

In India, game birds would be roasted in the tandoori oven, simmered in a curry or combined with rice, as in the game hen recipe. Quail, too small and lean for the searing heat of the tandoor, is more suited to a curry sauce.

Barkat Bibiwala, manager of Gaylord’s India restaurant of Beverly Hills, worked out these recipes, which are based on the royal style of cookery that he observed in his native New Delhi. Both recipes employ yogurt, which in Indian dishes is widely used instead of cream, and both present an alluring blend of spices.

Fragrant basmati rice from India is ideal for the pullao and also for the rice that accompanies the quail. Basmati rice is easy to obtain, since it is often stocked by health-food stores and in Asian markets.

GAME HEN PULLAO

1/2 cup plain yogurt 1/2 teaspoon ground cumin 1/2 teaspoon garam masala (Indian spice blend)1 tablespoon lemon juice2 cloves garlic, crushed to a paste 1/2 teaspoon ginger root, crushed to a paste 1/2 teaspoon paprika1 tablespoon oilSalt2 Cornish game hens, skinned and quarteredRice Pullao2 tablespoons sliced almonds Combine yogurt, cumin, garam masala , lemon juice, garlic, ginger, paprika, oil and salt to taste in large bowl. Add game hens, coat with marinade and refrigerate 4 to 6 hours. Broil game hens until almost done, 20 to 30 minutes, basting frequently with the juices. Meanwhile, prepare Rice Pullao. When rice is cooked, remove from heat. Spoon out half the rice. Place cooked hens on remaining rice, then return rice to pot, covering game hens completely. Cover mixture with a damp cloth to seal in steam, and place a tight-fitting lid on pot. Cook over low heat 8 to 10 minutes. Serve hot, garnished with sliced almonds. If desired, fry almonds until golden brown before garnishing. Makes 4 servings.

Rice Pullao

3 tablespoons oil1 onion, sliced1 teaspoon cumin seeds1 (2-inch) stick cinnamon8 cardamom pods8 whole cloves3 cups chicken broth2 cups basmati rice, washed and drainedPinch saffron, optional Heat oil in a Dutch oven. Add onion and fry until golden brown. Add cumin seeds and continue frying until onions are dark brown. Add cinnamon stick, cardamom pods, cloves and chicken broth, and bring to a boil. Add rice and saffron and cook on high heat, covered, until all broth is absorbed. Remove from heat and proceed as directed above.

QUAIL MASALA

cup oil1 small onion, finely sliced 1/2 cup plain yogurt3 cloves garlic, crushed1 teaspoon chopped ginger root, crushed1 teaspoon ground cumin teaspoon turmeric8 cardamom pods8 whole cloves1 (2-inch) stick cinnamon, broken into 3 to 4 pieces6 quails 3/4 cup water 1/2 teaspoon paprikaSalt1 sprig cilantro, choppedCayenne pepperGaram masala Heat oil in medium-size pot. Add onions and fry until lightly browned. Remove from heat and add yogurt. Turn mixture into blender, blend and return to pot. Add garlic, ginger, cumin, turmeric, cardamom pods, cloves and cinnamon. Cook over medium heat 2 to 3 minutes. Add quail and cook 4 to 5 minutes, stirring gently. Add water and simmer over low heat until birds are tender, about 30 minutes. Add paprika and salt and mix well. Place quails on serving platter. Sprinkle with cayenne pepper and garam masala to taste and garnish with chopped cilantro. Accompany with rice. Makes 6 servings.

Photographed by E. K. Waller / Food stylist Stephanie Puddy