Made in Israel : Alternative to Sweet Kosher Wine Is Gaining Recognition in the U.S.

When Passover rolls around each spring, as the traditional seder is being prepared in Jewish homes and temples around the world, custom calls for there to be kosher wine on the table.

The Passover seder service requires participants to consume four glasses of wine during the meal, and in keeping with the spirit of tradition, kosher wine is often part of the table.

In the past, such wine usually was very sweet, and the large purveyors of kosher wine at this season were Manischewitz and Mogen David. Such wine was often made from grape varieties like Concord, which is more often found in jelly than in wine.

Still, tradition dictated that kosher wine be on the table, so in many households very small glasses were used, because four sips of this syrupy wine could cause diabetic shock. Moreover, it generally contained more alcohol than dry table wine.

An alternative dry kosher wine, one that began to gain recognition in this country in the last decade, was from Israel. Wines made by Carmel, one of the oldest wineries of Israel, were imported by Joseph E. Seagram & Sons Inc. and to this day enjoy wide distribution.

More Companies Respond

Carmel’s success in the American marketplace prompted a number of other companies to move into the kosher wine field, and recently, in the two or three months before Passover, a wide range of kosher wines has been available in major cities that have large Jewish populations.

(This short-term availability of kosher wines irritates the more orthodox Jews who strictly follow Jewish dietary laws and who consume nothing that isn’t kosher on a year-round basis. Those who prefer dry kosher wines to the more available sweet wines are upset by the fact that soon after Passover ends, and for months afterward, little kosher wine is widely available.)

Within the last two or three years, kosher wines have improved greatly in quality. Today at least three California wineries specialize in kosher wines, others produce it under contract for a client, and a much wider selection of kosher wines from France have been imported. Add to that the products of two more Israeli wine companies, as well as the products of Kedem of New York.

Clearly, the availability of kosher wines has broadened the choices open to those who desire them. However, it’s necessary to choose very carefully from the available kosher wines since the quality of them varies so much, from excellent to rather abysmal.

In a recent series of tastings I conducted, I sampled almost 30 kosher wines available in the United States. Disappointingly, half of them were poor enough to make my “not recommended” list, and only a half dozen actually were impressive enough to get excited over.

Not Too Much Excitement

Moreover, prices were usually not cheap, so there wasn’t much to get excited about. Two Sonoma County wines stood out, though, as good values and worth seeking out, even if you care not about kosher wine.

The best of them was 1986 Weinstock Chardonnay, a bargain at $7. The wine isn’t extremely complex, but the very clean, fruity aroma is offset by some delicate hints of oak and yeastiness.

Similarly, I liked the 1986 Gan Eden Chardonnay ($7.50), which had lively fruit and a peachy sort of aftertaste. Only a slight plasticky component in the wine dropped it below the Weinstock.

Among the white wines, the best overall effort was a stunningly made 1987 Cabernet Blanc from Yarden, a relatively new brand from Israel produced by Golan Heights Winery. At $7.75, the wine is a tad expensive, but it is a striking example of how the Cabernet Sauvignon grape variety can be styled into a relatively dry wine, yet still reveal a cherry-like aroma and slight herbal quality. Most appealing.

Also very impressive was a 1987 Chenin Blanc from Baron de Herzog ($5.65), which had a delightfully floral/minty aroma and a melony taste. This off-dry wine will appeal to those who like dry wines as well as those who like their wines a bit sweeter.

For those who desire a bone dry white wine, the 1986 Yarden Sauvignon Blanc ($9.75) is very crisp and similar to a French white Graves, though with a rather simple aftertaste. Considering the price, it’s not a great value, but well made wine.

The First to Specialize

Hagafen, the Napa Valley producer that was the first to specialize in premium dry California kosher wines, has an interesting 1987 Pinot Noir Blanc ($5.25) with some fruit and richness. A slight aroma of wheat and olives makes the wine less than traditional, but its off-dry taste is balanced by good acidity.

Hagafen’s 1987 Chardonnay ($11) has decent, straightforward flavors, but its youth makes the wine hard to evaluate right now. (It is possible that releasing this wine in time for Passover hurt it; it tastes like it will improve in another few months.)

Among the red wines, Yarden’s 1984 Cabernet Sauvignon was the class of the tastings. The wine has a strong Cabernet nose of cassis and spice, with plenty of richness and fullness, and a nicely layered taste of chocolate and an earthiness quite appropriate to the structure. This is a better wine than the overpriced 1983 Yarden Cabernet, which tasted slightly burnt and was hard.

Another red wine of charm was a 1986 Beaujolais-Villages ($7) imported from France by M & G Wines. Fresh fruit and uncomplicated softness make it very quaffable, especially when slightly chilled.

Two kosher red Bordeaux offered this year are the 1986 Barons Edmond et Benjamin de Rothschild ($23) and Chateau Les Hauts de Brame (St. Estephe, $16). Both were a bit on the hard side, certainly not wines I would consume this Passover.

In general, a kosher wine--historically made for Jewish consumption--is one that conforms to Jewish law. That law states that it must be made in sterilized vessels, such as stainless steel fermentation tanks and barrels.

But the actual specifics of what constitutes a kosher wine are open to interpretation. (In one interpretation, for instance, a rabbinical group could argue that anyone associated in any way with the production of a kosher wine must be Jewish. Others would argue that only production-line people must be Jewish. Still others say the the only restriction is that the grape juice may be touched only by Jewish people.)

In practice, the production of a kosher wine requires that a certified rabbi be on premises to oversee procedures, at various stages, and to make certain that Jewish law is followed. However, different rabbinical groups may have slightly different interpretations of what fulfills the intent to produce a kosher wine.

Wine of the Week: 1982 Heitz Grignolino ($5)--Joe Heitz may be more famous for his Martha’s Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, but this delightful red wine made from an Italian-leaning grape variety is a charmer. The color gives you a clue that this is wine not to ponder. It’s light red, barely deeper than a dark rose. The aroma has cherries and a slight orange peel hint, and the taste is soft and quaffable. I tried it slightly chilled with pasta last week and found a perfect match. Heitz has had Grignolino planted in his own vineyard for years and he loves this variety. So does famed Italian wine maker Angelo Gaja, who is presently importing Heitz wines to Italy and is asking for the Grignolino at a far faster rate than any other Heitz wine.