Fish Recipes That Boost Heart Health : Seafood: A Collection of Heart-Healthy Recipes by Janis Harsila R.D. and Evie Hansen, (National Seafood Educators: $13.95, 223 pages)

Seafood is enjoying a new place of respect and desirability now that it has been endorsed scientifically as one of the most healthful protein foods for avoiding heart disease.

Health agencies, including the American Heart Assn., now recommend that Americans eat fish frequently (at least two or three times a week according to the AHA), because it contains “omega-3 fatty acid,” a highly polyunsaturated fat that helps reduce the risk of cardiovascular disease. These polyunsaturated fats (even more polyunsaturated than margarine) present in fish act as an antifreeze in fish and have much the same blood-thinning effect, preventing clotting, and, thus, hardening of the arteries in humans.

Studies show that adding more fish to the diet causes triglycerides and cholesterol counts to go down. (A 20-year study in Denmark following 850 middle-aged men in 1985 showed that the mortality rate was more than 50% lower among those who ate an average of one ounce of fish per day.

There is just one thing wrong. Most home chefs have problems handling and cooking fish. Education simply is not there for most people raised on meat, and, in many cases, meat alone. Fish, does, indeed, require skill if it is to be properly purchased, handled and cooked.

If the consumer is eating more--and they are--(about 15.4 pounds in 1987 compared with 11.8 pounds in 1970), most of it is being done in restaurants, not in homes, according to a Better Homes and Gardens 1986 survey showing that 65% of the fish-eating public eat seafood outside of the home. Fear of cooking fish and fear of not purchasing the proper quality fish are reasons for the restaurant dining phenomenon.

To help correct the gap, registered dietitian Janis Harsila and Evie Hansen, both wives of fishermen in Washington state, who eat seafood six to seven days a week, came up with “Seafood: A Collection of Heart-Healthy Recipes.” The cookbook has, so far, been received with open arms by consumers hungry for information on a food that is good for them. With 45,000 copies sold, the book is considered a nationwide best seller.

The reason is simple. The book addresses itself the educational problems consumers face when dealing with fish.

There are about 150 easy recipes, which require less than 20 minutes per recipe to prepare and are also low in fat and calories. More than 35 species of fish and shellfish are discussed in the book.

There also are tips for selecting, handling and preparing all seafood--both shellfish and fish--in its various forms, as fillets, steaks and whole fish.

Hansen, one of the authors, stopped by at The Times during her last book tour to discuss some of the problems most consumers have with fish.

“If people knew how much they could enjoy fresh seafood as fresh as we get it, they would be eating fish seven days a week the way we are,” she said.

Actually, according to Hansen, fresh-frozen fish is as good as “fresh as we get it,” because it is frozen within two to three hours from the time caught. “People have a misconception that frozen fish is not fresh. Actually it is far more fresh than so-called fresh fish you buy at the fish counter where it may have stood under refrigeration for weeks, just as is done with fresh produce,” she said.

Many fishermen today start out making frozen fish their goal as soon as the fish is caught. “If that is their goal, you can be sure that within a few minutes, the fish is bled, gutted, filleted and frozen whole within two or three hours. The fish is then kept at minus 20 degrees, which seals in every fresh quality with no chance of deterioration or nutrient loss,” said Hansen.

Fresh fish kept iced at 32 degrees from the moment caught until it reaches the supermarket shelf would still be considered fresh for 21 days thereafter, according to University of Washington research, Hansen pointed out. Research reported in two separate retail trade publications (Seafood Leader and Seafood Business Report) indicates that flash-frozen fish won out over fresh fish in a test on ultimate freshness.

“If people knew they could have good fish whether fresh or frozen, they would eat more fish,” Hansen said.

To purchase fish with confidence, you have to know what you are looking for, claims Hansen. “One should feel as confident when shopping for fish as when shopping for corn.”

But is one?

According to Hansen, if you are buying frozen fish, look for a label that says “frozen at sea,” indicating that a factory trawler or small boat with freezing equipment on board has caught and frozen the fish within hours if not minutes.

If you purchase fresh fillets, steaks or roasts that have been thawed or are fresh, look for bright, clean, good color. If you are allowed to touch the fish, the flesh should be firm. Fish should not have any offensive odor, except for a whiff of fresh ocean breezes, if at all. If the odor is even slightly offensive, don’t buy it.

When purchasing whole fish, look for scales that are intact, eyes bright and clean. The inside cavity should contain meat firmly stuck to the bone. If bones pull away easily from gutted fish, don’t buy it, as loose flesh is a signal of deterioration.

Shellfish in their shells (oysters, mussels, clams) are sold alive and the shell should be closed tightly. If the shell is gaping, give it a tap. If the muscles constrict, the shellfish is alive and well. If not, the shellfish is dead and should be discarded.

Cleaned shellfish (prawns, Canadian shrimp, lobster from Mexico and around the world, or tiger prawns from Thailand) are generally transported to market in the frozen state, but are thawed at the market site. For value for your money the year around, try to include canned fish on the weekly menu once or twice a week, suggests Hansen. “Consumers should take advantage of the great bargain canned fish really is. It’s good for you and the price is right.”

Watch Seasonal Supply

Wise shoppers watch the seasons when deciding the type of fish they will purchase. “As we become more astute, seafood shoppers will recognize seafood seasons for best buys. In-season fish is generally at its greatest supply and lowest cost, depending on the stability of the dollar in the world market,” said Hansen.

This summer, salmon from Alaska should be available at excellent--and declining--prices until September. Swordfish is abundant and low in cost from now until mid to late August. Halibut is a winner from now until August. Shrimp from Oregon (great for summery shrimp salads) is a good buy now until the end of summer.

Nutritionally speaking, fish contains less cholesterol than shellfish. Shrimp contains higher amounts of cholesterol than some red meats and chicken--about 150 milligrams cholesterol in a 3 1/2-ounce portion, compared with 80 milligrams cholesterol in an equivalent piece of lean beef or chicken or lobster and crab. Fish contains about 30 milligrams to 100 milligrams cholesterol per 3 1/2 ounces, depending on the fish. All seafood is low in fat, ranging from 1% to 10% fat, compared to 10% to 30% fat in packed poultry. Cutting back total fat is considered an important factor in a healthy diet. Type of fat--saturated or polyunsaturated--is also important when selecting meat or fish.

Contrary to what was believed 20 years ago, mollusks, such as mussels, clams and scallops, are lower in cholesterol than any other protein source. Unlike animal sterols, which are high in cholesterol, mollusks contain plant sterols that are low in cholesterol.

Herring and salmon, mackerel and black cod contain the highest amount of omega-3 fatty acids of any fish.

Opaque Flesh That Flakes Easily

A good rule to follow for cooking fish properly is the 10-minutes-per-inch rule for poaching, baking, barbecuing with hot heat methods. Grilling, sauteing and broiling may take slightly longer, but not much. Cut into the center of the fish. If it flakes easily, remove it from heat. The flesh should be opaque.

Poaching is a good way for the novice to cook fish. The moist-heat process allows some leeway with cooking time, with moisture as an aid. Liquid used in cooking or poaching (level of liquid should be 1/2- to 3/4-inch from bottom of fish) can be water with herbs and spices added. You can use tomato juice with oregano and basil, or wine with herbs. Fruit juice, such as apple and orange juice flavored with ginger, goes well with almost any white fish.

Tips for Grilling

As for grilling, no less than a 1-inch thick piece of fish should be used to prevent it from falling apart during cooking and turning.

“It’s better, actually, to grill fish only on one side to avoid ruining its shape,” Hansen said.

When baking fish, don’t bother turning it as it is being cooked with moist heat. Any liquid, including wines and vegetables, is ideal for baking fish.

Ideally, you should plan leftovers, especially after a barbecued salmon meal. Leftover fish or shellfish make excellent additions to salads and sandwiches. Cube, chunk or flake the leftover cooked fish, as needed.

Avoid Odor Transference

To store fish when you get home, wash and store the fish steaks or fillets open in an airtight container with a tight-fitting lid. Place the fish on a grate to avoid drenching the fish in its own liquid.

If you don’t have an airtight container, wrap the fish in plastic wrap. If you eat fish regularly, keep a separate container just for fish to avoid transference of odors to other foods.

How long should you store fish in the refrigerator? Overnight storage is long enough for fish stored properly immediately upon returning from the market. If you are storing cooked fish, wrap it in plastic wrap and store it in an airtight container in the refrigerator. The fish should keep well under these conditions for two days.

If the fish has taken on an offensive odor, is mushy and loose-fleshed or gelatinous, throw it out.

As for imitation crab meat, there are more than 35 producers of imitation crab and all use their own secret recipe. Most use a white fish called Pollock. Their recipe may be a combination of cornstarch, egg white, salt, sugar, MSG, crab and crab extract for flavor. Some use all the ingredients mentioned, and others do not. Some use sugar and MSG, other producers do not. If you want to know exactly what you are getting, ask to see a label. Prices, however, may or may not be an indication of quality.

The book is available at book stores and some supermarkets. You can order it by mail by writing to the National Seafood Educators, P.O. Box 60006, Richmond Beach, Wash., 98160. Send a check for $11.95 plus $2 for handling.