NEW WAVES : New technology and new products promise to make flash cooking the wave of the future.

It’s the year 2001. You’re driving on the maddeningly crowded freeway joining the morning rush. There was absolutely no time to cook and eat breakfast at home so you automatically had to grab a cassette-like packet of ‘heat and eat’ bacon and eggs from your selection of instant breakfast meals.

Zap! You pull this packet from the little microwave oven built into your dashboard and voila --your hot meal is ready. Zap again! Your steaming cup of coffee comes out of the unit, all set to perk you up on this busy day. Vision impossible? No.

The Campbell Microwave Institute predicts that at about that time in the future, 25% of cars will have microwave units. “The idea is not goofy,” said Bill Piscek, manager of marketing research for Campbell Soup Co., claiming that they’ve already received a call from a Ford representative who heard about their idea of putting a microwave in the glove compartment of a car.

The two-year old research institute also projected that around that future time period, microwave ovens will be found in eight out of 10 homes and will be the major driving force in the food-related marketplace.

“Years ago, you were known as a weirdo if you owned a microwave” said Piscek. “Now you are a weirdo if you don’t own one.” The institute’s latest study shows that microwave ownership is now 66%, up 10% in the past year. Piscek disclosed that “there are about 60 million microwave ovens in today’s kitchens, more than dishwashers or VCRs.”

By 1990, 50% of all cooking will be done via microwave, he added. Advances in packaging technology have made possible a startling variety of “zappables.” Just take a look at your grocer’s shelves today. They’re filled with a tidal wave of convenience food cartons that say ‘microwaveable.’ The gamut runs from frozen entrees and vegetables to shelf-stable cake mixes and frostings.

Last year alone, 284 microwave food products were introduced, according to Marketing Intelligence Service Ltd. A promise of double that amount in the next year or so would not be at all surprising.

The number of women joining the work force has led to the successful proliferation of instant meals as well as instant snacks for latchkey children. Adding to their frozen food line of microwave breakfast and dinner sandwiches, Hormel has just rolled out chicken and steak breakfast biscuit sandwiches in addition to fish and chicken dinner sandwiches on sesame yeast rolls. Past selections include flame-broiled hamburger sandwiches with varieties of cheese and bacon.

Popcorn alone is big, big microwave business. According to Sherri Pfefer, media consultant for Sharp Electronics, retail sales of microwave popcorn totaled $350 million in 1987, 44% of the total unpopped popcorn sold. Convenience and taste appeal have contributed to the popularity of these microwave popping corn products.

The only problem is uneven popping results caused by different microwave ovens. “A lot of people scorch popcorn,” Pfefer said. To combat this problem, Sharp has introduced the ESP oven featuring an electronic sensory processor. The new unit senses power levels and cooking times for popular foods such as popcorn, baked potatoes, soft and hard fresh vegetables, frozen vegetables and dinners, bacon, hamburger, chicken pieces and fish.

One of the newest hot summer treats is the microwaveable hot fudge sundae from Steve’s Homemade Ice Cream Inc. A 30-second exposure to microwave energy excites and melts down the fudge-topping molecules while the ice cream stays cold.

Now being test-marketed is Campbell’s Souper Combo, which combines an 8-ounce bowl of soup that can be reheated in about 7 minutes and a sandwich that only takes 30 seconds.

Considered a wet heating system that’s great for high-moisture foods, the microwave oven has limitations; it doesn’t produce crispy foods. Working on a project that will turn out a crisp coating product for microwaved foods, Campbell’s Piscek said: “We’re still a way off; that’s a toughie. The microwave is more of a steamer, not a fryer.”

Other major food companies are already a step ahead in the “crisping” technology. Pillsbury has developed aluminum-layered “susceptor plates” in their microwave pizza packaging for browning crusts. The presence of the metallic film traps microwaves and raises the temperature around the food to browning stage. Lean Pockets, a low-calorie pizza product, has “micro-sleeves” that use the same metal energy technique.

Newly introduced is the Microwave Bacon from Hormel, which has four micro-ready bacon slices set on a tray lined with materials that absorb grease. Co-created by 3M Corp., the plastic bag puffs up upon heating to allow an internal high heat that “fries” the bacon strips.

Sales levels of microwave ovens may be stabilizing, but consumers are trading up to better units suited to their life style. It is not surprising to find compact units in master bedrooms, exercise or play rooms and even bathrooms. Wonderful feedback has also been obtained from the combination microwave-convection ovens that offer the best of both worlds. For wattage, Piscek suggests buying no less than 600 watts. Although the space-saving subcompact units have gained public interest, particularly for singles, the mid-size or at least 600-watt ovens provide more benefit in speed and larger cavities. “It’s like getting a scooter versus a Cadillac,” he said.

Space is another buying factor. An advance that is now available in Japan from Sharp is the three-appliance upright stack, featuring a freezer on top, a microwave in the center and a refrigerator at the bottom.

“Say goodby to the wood-grain microwave,” Pfefer said. “The trend in ’88 is the white cabinet, with more and more manufacturers using Corian marble and going back to traditional white kitchen design.” For cookware and accessories, consumer surveys indicate that most people are content with their Pyrex or earthenware bowls. As a consequence, sales of special microwave cookware have suffered a decline. Two of the most useful accessories are the bacon rack and the carrousel or turntable for even heating.

No Standardization

Since there still has not been any standardization in microwave cooking levels, and probably never will, microwave experts advise following cooking directions, beginning with the shortest recommended length of time to prevent overcooking. “Treat it (a microwaved food) like rare steak, which can be returned to the oven to adjust the degree of doneness,” Piscek commented. The micro-ready indicator from 3M may be a promising solution to irregularities in doneness and oven timing. A tiny strip on top of a food container (such as found in Armour’s frozen dinners) will convert from blue and white to all-blue when the food is done.

Another innovation from Sharp is the bar-code oven. The unit incorporates a wireless optic scanner that the user runs over the recipe’s bar code. This is inserted into the oven’s control panel, and the oven automatically reads the instructions and carries out the cooking program at proper time and power levels.

Some cooks may not opt for convenience foods and would rather prepare everything from scratch. By now microwave users, having gained a little microwave savvy, have gone far beyond peeling peaches and tomatoes; melting chocolate, microwaving scrambled or poached eggs, premicrowaving barbecued chicken and ribs. Those who want to go a step further may venture to try some of the following recipe ideas. Included are a delicious rice-raisin pudding from microwave consultant Billie Sedan. The whole catfish with a savory soy-ginger sauce is a good way of using the microwave as a steamer. To beat the heat, there’s a coffee liqueur topping for ice cream lovers.

Microwave cookbooks now abound and microwave cooking lessons can also be taken from local microwave stores such as Friedman’s, a chain of microwave outlets that has been serving California for years.

STEAMED CATFISH

1 (1- to 1 1/4-pound) whole catfish

3 to 4 tablespoons soy sauce

1 tablespoon lemon juice

1 teaspoon sugar

2 green onions, finely julienned

1 inch slice ginger, finely julienned

1 clove garlic, minced

Salt, pepper

1 shiitake mushroom, rehydrated in warm water and cut julienne

1/2 teaspoon sesame oil

1/2 teaspoon toasted sesame seeds

Place cleaned catfish in microwave-proof platter rectangular dish. Combine soy sauce, lemon juice, sugar, green onions, ginger, garlic, salt and pepper to taste and mushroom. Pour over fish. Cover with film wrap and microwave at HIGH (100% power) 6 to 7 1/2 minutes or until fish is done. Let stand 2 minutes. Pour over sesame oil and sprinkle with sesame seeds. Serve with steamed rice. Makes 4 to 6 servings.

MICROWAVED OLD-FASHIONED RICE PUDDING

4 cups milk

1/2 cup long-grain white rice

1/4 cup raisins

2 tablespoons butter or margarine

3 eggs, beaten

1/2 cup sugar

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/8 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/8 teaspoon ground nutmeg

1 teaspoon vanilla

Combine milk, rice, raisins, butter in 1 1/2-quart microwave safe casserole. Microwave at HIGH (100% power) uncovered 7 to 8 minutes or until steaming hot (190 degrees) stirring once.

Microwave at MEDIUM (50% power) uncovered 25 to 30 minutes or until rice is tender, stirring 2 to 3 times. Mix in eggs, sugar, salt, cinnamon and nutmeg. Microwave at low uncovered 10 to 12 minutes or until mixture begins to thicken, stirring 3 to 4 times. Stir in vanilla. Serve warm. Makes 6 servings.

RATATOUILLE A LA ANNE

1 small eggplant, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch cubes

1 onion, sliced

3 cups combined red, yellow or green sweet peppers, sliced

2 cloves garlic, minced

3 tablespoons olive oil

2 zucchini, sliced

4 tomatoes

1 teaspoon anise seeds

1 bay leaf

1 teaspoon dried basil or 2 tablespoons chopped fresh

1 teaspoon salt

Pepper

In 3-quart microwave-safe casserole, combine eggplant, onion, sweet peppers, garlic and olive oil. Microwave uncovered at HIGH (100% power) until vegetables are tender, 8 to 10 minutes, stirring once or twice during cooking.

Add zucchini, tomatoes, anise seeds, bay leaf, basil, and salt and pepper to taste. Microwave covered at HIGH) until zucchini slices are tender, 5 to 7 minutes. Let stand 5 minutes. Remove bay leaf. Serve hot or cold. Serve hot with rice or cold in pita bread pockets. Makes 6 to 8 servings.

SHARP BARBECUE SAUCE

1 medium onion, chopped

1 tablespoon oil

1 cup beef broth

1 (6-ounce) can tomato paste

1/3 cup vinegar

3 tablespoons brown sugar, packed

3 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce

2 tablespoons prepared mustard

2 teaspoons salt

1/2 teaspoon black pepper

Place onion and oil in medium bowl. Microwave at HIGH (100% power) until onion is tender, about 1 to 2 minutes. Blend in beef broth, tomato paste, vinegar, brown sugar, Worcestershire, mustard, salt and pepper.

Microwave at HIGH until bubbly, about 5 minutes. Reduce power to MEDIUM (50% power). Microwave until thickened, about 5 minutes, stirring occasionally during cooking. Makes 1 1/2 cups.

STUFFED CHICKEN BREASTS WITH HOLLANDAISE SAUCE

2 boneless, skinless chicken breasts, split (about 3/4 pound)

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

1 teaspoon minced shallot or onion

1 (10-ounce) package frozen asparagus spears, thawed

1/4 cup buttery cracker crumbs

1/3 cup butter or margarine

2 tablespoons lemon juice

2 egg yolks

1/8 teaspoon salt

1/4 cup sliced almonds, toasted

Cover chicken breasts with film wrap and pound lightly with meat mallet. Combine mustard and shallot. Spread evenly on inside of each chicken breast. Place 1/4 of asparagus spears on each mustard-coated side of chicken breast and roll up. Coat roll-ups with crumbs. Place seam side down, in 8-inch square glass baking dish. Cover with vented plastic wrap.

Microwave at HIGH (100% power) 6 to 7 minutes, or until chicken is tender. Let stand covered 3 minutes. For hollandaise sauce, place butter in 2-cup glass measure. Microwave at HIGH 45 to 60 seconds, or until melted. Whisk in lemon juice, egg yolks and salt. Microwave at MEDIUM HIGH (70% power) 45 to 60 seconds or until thickened, whisking every 15 seconds. Serve sauce immediately over chicken. Sprinkle with toasted almonds. Makes 4 servings.

Note: To toast almonds in microwave, place 1 teaspoon butter in 1-cup glass measure. Microwave at HIGH 15 to 30 seconds, or until melted. Stir in 1/4 cup sliced almonds. Microwave at HIGH 5 to 6 minutes, or until toasted. Stir every 30 seconds.

COFFEE CARMELO SAUCE

3 cups miniature marshmallows

1 1/4 cups light brown sugar, packed

1 cup whipping cream

1/4 cup butter

1/4 cup coffee liqueur

1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla

In 8-cup microwaveable bowl combine marshmallows, sugar and whipping cream. Cover tightly with plastic film. Cook at HIGH (100% power) 6 minutes, stirring halfway. Carefully remove film, return bowl to microwave and continue cooking at HIGH to soft ball stage, 240 degrees on candy thermometer, about 6 minutes.

Remove bowl from microwave and stir in butter, liqueur and vanilla. Serve warm or at room temperature. Use as dip for fresh fruit, or as topping over ice cream. Makes about 2 1/4 cups.

Note: Store in covered container in refrigerator. Microwave at HIGH 1 minute to reheat.

SUMMER VEGETABLE EGGSTRAVAGANZA

1 medium onion, thinly sliced

1 medium green pepper, cut into julienne strips

1 medium yellow pepper, cut into julienne strips

1 medium sweet red pepper, cut into julienne strips

2 medium tomatoes, cored, seeded and diced

1 teaspoon garlic salt

1 teaspoon basil leaves, crushed

1/8 teaspoon ground red pepper

1 cup nonfat milk

1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese

2 teaspoons cornstarch

4 cups cooked Spaghetti Squash Strands (about 1 medium squash)

8 Poached Eggs

In 2-quart glass baking dish or glass measure, toss together onion and peppers. Cover with plastic wrap, turning back 1 corner to vent. Microwave on full power for 3 minutes or until vegetables are tender-crisp, stirring each minute. Stir in tomatoes, garlic salt, basil and red pepper. Microwave, uncovered, on full power 3 minutes or until thoroughly heated, stirring each minute. Cover and keep warm.

In 2-cup bowl or glass measure, combine milk, cheese and cornstarch. Microwave, uncovered, at HIGH (100% power) 4 minutes or until mixture thickens and boils, stirring each minute. For each serving spoon about 1/4 cup milk sauce over 1 cup hot spaghetti squash strands. Top with about 1 cup reserved vegetable mixture and 2 poached eggs. Serve immediately. Makes 4 servings.

Spaghetti Squash Strands

1 medium spaghetti squash

Pierce squash with fork. Cook at HIGH (100% power) in microwave oven, turning occasionally until fork-tender, allowing 4 to 5 minutes per pound, or cook whole in steamer, or in boiling water to cover, about 20 to 30 minutes. Cool until comfortable to handle. Cut in half crosswise. Scoop out seeds and discard. With fork, pull across squash to loosen strands.

Poached Eggs

Water

8 eggs

Heat 1 cup water to boiling in 1- to 1 1/2-quart microwave-proof casserole at HIGH (100% power). Break and slip 4 eggs into water. Gently pierce yolks with tip of knife or wood pick. Cover and cook on full power or HIGH, rotating each minute, until almost set, 2 to 3 minutes. Let stand 1 to 2 minutes, if necessary, to complete cooking to desired doneness. Lift out eggs with slotted spoon. Drain from spoon or on paper towels. Trim any rough edges, if desired. Repeat with additional 1 cup water and remaining eggs.

Food Styling by Minnie Bernardino and Donna Deane