WINE : The Ups and Downs of Opera, Fennel

In the course of one week I found myself dining at two similarly chic Pacific-bound restaurants situated within yards of each other. The contrast was remarkable, and even though you can’t compare the food at Fennel and Opera, the wine lists offer a fascinating lesson in the hows and how nots of putting together a wine program.

Fennel seemingly chose its wines for name-recognition value and priced them, almost across the board, out of the reach of all but the wealthiest diners. Opera, conversely, operated with intelligence and concern in assembling its list and priced it according to a much more modest--though by no means bargain--formula.

Since neither place is aimed toward super-formal dining, the wine service at both places is not a major concern, though the people at Opera do have some nice touches. And stemware at both places is good.

Fennel’s wine list has all the requisite names--Dom Perignon, Grgich Hills, Sonoma Cutrer, Opus One, Jordan, Stag’s Leap--as well as more than two dozen items with the word chateau in front of them. The problem is the pricing. It’s stratospheric.

Almost every Chardonnay is marked up three times its wholesale price, and some (such as the 1987 Acacia at an outrageous $50) are closer to five times wholesale.

As a comparison between Fennel and Opera, the former offers a bottle of 1986 Sonoma-Cutrer Russian River Chardonnay at an exorbitant $36. Opera has the same wine listed at $20, which is a markup of about 2.4 times wholesale, just a tad under the Los Angeles average markup for currently available wine.

Perhaps another way to look at these lists is to ask why certain wines were chosen. Look, for example, at equivalent white Burgundies, both of which are superb, both from a great vintage, and both of which would likely give equal joy to a wine lover: 1985 Puligny-Montrachet from Louis Jadot at Fennel and 1985 Puligny-Montrachet from Patriarche at Opera.

The Jadot at Fennel costs $68 (2.8 times wholesale); the Patriarche is $38 at Opera (2.5 times wholesale).

Another comparison: 1982 BV Private Reserve at Fennel is $55; 1980 BV Private Reserve at Opera is $45.

And why would Fennel price Dom Perignon Champagne at $160, which makes one ounce worth $6.40? (By way of comparison, Eddie Jacks in San Francisco has the much-better Krug Grande Cuvee at $65 a bottle.)

Fennel has a high regard for top-name wineries; its 125 wines feature the glitz--names like Silverado, Groth, Caymus, Stag’s Leap, Sequoia Grove, and Mondavi Cabernets. Opera, on the other hand, is more selective and thus has more of a cross section of wines.

To show the care with which Opera’s list was assembled, it has Bonny Doon’s rare and delightful red called Le Cigare Volant, and the even rarer Domaine Tempier Bandol Rose (at an unfortunately too-high $25). And every wine on the Opera list has a correct appellation or designation listed on the menu; every vintage-dated wine has a vintage listed; and there are actually a few wines priced below twice wholesale, meaning they are relatively good values (they are expensive wines).

Fennel has a few good values, but they are hard to ferret out. The attractive dry Riesling from Trefethen is listed at $16, 1984 Groth Cabernet Sauvignon at $23, and there is a string of George Duboeuf Beaujolais at prices “only” three times wholesale.

Opera, on the other hand, gets a standing ovation for its half-dozen sherries, including the marvelous Dry, Character and Imperial Corregidor sherries of Sandeman. What a find!

Best white wine value on Opera’s list is the 1986 Byron Chardonnay at $17.50. Best red wine value is a hard choice, but I’d opt for 1985 Lakespring Merlot, a stunning wine with oodles of fruit at $21.

Best red wine is 1979 Heitz Martha’s Vineyard ($70). Other good wines: 1983 Laurel Glen Cabernet ($19.50), 1985 Kenwood Zinfandel ($16.50), 1986 Antinori Galestro ($15), Domaine Mumm Cuvee Napa (sparkling, $24).

Splurge reds: 1983 Chateau Montrose ($45; suggested retail price is $35), and 1983 Chateau Lynch-Bages ($50; suggested retail is $40).

One way around Fennel’s prices is to bring your own wine. Corkage at both Fennel and Opera is $10, and even wholesale reps reluctantly admit that they envision many diners who seek the great tastes of creative cooking bringing their own wine to Fennel instead of being gouged.

One note: A few weeks after my initial visits, and after many complaints from diners about wine prices, the staff at Fennel chose to lower many prices. Those quoted in this article are from the new, lowered list.