Variations on a Hanukkah Favorite: <i> The Latke </i>

Hanukkah, the Festival of Lights, will begin this year at sundown on Dec. 3 and continue for eight days and nights. The holiday is celebrated by candle lighting, exchanging gifts and eating foods fried in oil, an ancient custom commemorating an event at the temple in Jerusalem, where a tiny vial of oil is said to have burned for eight days.

Of course, the favorite Hanukkah food is latkes (pancakes), and most of us are familiar with the kind made from grated potatoes served with sour cream, preserves or applesauce.

This year I decided to interview some well-known chefs and restaurateurs in my search for some new and different latkes. The result was more than I bargained for. I never dreamed there could be so many sensational new recipes, and an added bonus was the delicious new sauces that these food experts provided to serve with the latkes.

Michel Richard, chef/owner of Citrus restaurant is always looking for ways to reduce the use of butter and cream, so he developed wafer-thin, super-crisp Oven-Fried Potato Latkes, which bear absolutely no resemblance to the old-fashioned heavier and more caloric version.

Mark Peel and Nancy Silverton, chef/owners of the soon-to-open La Brea Bakery and Campanile restaurant, created a recipe for wonderful, quick and easy Austrian Dessert Latkes, served with a dash of lemon juice, powdered sugar and marmalade.

Bruce Marder, an innovative chef, came up with Two-tone Potato Latkes, made without eggs and served as a main course along with Lamb and Vegetable Medley. He has added them to the menu at his West Beach Cafe.

Leonard Schwartz of 72 Market Street created a hearty main-course pancake--Whitefish Latkes With Sour Cream-Shallot Sauce.

Jonathan Waxman telephoned from his New York namesake restaurant with a recipe for Red Pepper and Corn Latkes served with Creamy Corn Sauce.

Another substantial main course latke is the inspiration of Michel Oniyon, chef/owner of Restaurant Koutoubia, Moroccan Ground Beef and Potato Latkes. He suggests serving them with harissa sauce, a spicy, hot chili pepper sauce.

Two totally different latkes were provided by Anne Rosenzweig of New York’s famed 21 Club and Arcadia restaurant and Luciano Pellegrini, chef of Piero Selvagio’s Primi restaurant. The former created All-American Corn Cake Latkes, and the latter some exceptional Italian Risotto Latkes served with marinara sauce.

With eight exciting latke recipes, why not plan a festive latke party for family and friends? The cooler weather lends itself to the enjoyment of eating crisp hot latkes, and the Hanukkah candles add a festive glow to the table. Keep the menu simple--after all the latkes are the real stars, and a hearty soup or salad may be the only addition needed. When latkes are served for dessert, invite guests to drop in after dinner for latkes, tea and coffee.

Entertaining a larger group can be made easy by using a food processor or blender. Also, many batters may be made in advance and fried at the last moment when guests arrive.

Add to the party spirit with cookies baked in the traditional shapes of stars and dreidls (spinning tops). Blue and white icing repeats the blue and white color scheme to be found in streamers, gift wrappings and paper plates and cups, all available in specialty shops and stationery stores.

In planning a Hanukkah party, don’t forget the old familiar songs, the custom of giving Hanukkah gelt (money) to the children and exchanging small gifts. Remember homemade latkes in all varieties, old-fashioned or new, sweet, tangy or hearty make a delicious Hanukkah gift that family and friends will enjoy.

MARK PEEL AND NANCY SILVERTON’S AUSTRIAN DESSERT LATKES

1/2 cup flour

1/4 cup sugar

2 teaspoons grated lemon zest

1/4 teaspoon salt

4 eggs, separated

1/4 cup milk

Oil

Lemon juice

Powdered sugar

Marmalade

In mixing bowl, combine flour and 2 tablespoons sugar, lemon zest and salt. Beat in egg yolks and milk.

Beat egg whites with remaining 2 tablespoons sugar until stiff peaks form and fold into flour mixture. Batter will be thin.

Heat oil in skillet until very hot and spoon in 1 tablespoon batter for each latke. Fry only about 1 minute on first side, turn and fry 30 seconds on other side as they brown quickly.

To serve, squeeze fresh lemon juice on each latke, sprinkle with powdered sugar and add dollop of marmalade. Makes about 2 dozen small latkes.

MICHEL RICHARD’S OVEN-FRIED POTATO LATKES

2 large potatoes, peeled

Salt, pepper

Oil

Sour cream

Diced cucumbers

Cut potatoes into long thin julienne strips. (Do not wash or soak in water.) Sprinkle with salt and pepper to taste.

Heat oil in large non-stick skillet over medium high heat. Saute layer of julienned potatoes until tender. Cool and place on large sheet of plastic wrap and cover with another sheet. Flatten with bottom of heavy pot until about 1/8- to 1/4-inch thick.

Remove top sheet and cut potatoes with 3-inch round cookie cutter to make about 16 latkes. Carefully place each potato round on oiled baking sheet. Bake at 325 degrees 20 to 30 minutes or until golden brown. Serve with sour cream and diced cucumbers. Makes about 16 latkes.

BRUCE MARDER’S TWO-TONE POTATO LATKES WITH LAMB AND VEGETABLE MEDLEY

1 large potato, peeled

1 large sweet potato, peeled

Salt, pepper

Lamb and Vegetable Medley

Cut potatoes lengthwise into long thin julienne strips, either with knife, food processor with julienne attachment or mandolin. Place in large bowl. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Mix well.

Shape potato mixture into pancakes about 2 inches in diameter. Heat olive oil in cast iron skillet or griddle over medium high heat. Fry latkes on 1 side until brown. With metal spatula, carefully turn, flatten with back of spatula and brown on other side. Place each latke on heated plate and serve with Lamb and Vegetable Medley. Makes about 12 latkes.

Lamb and Vegetable Medley

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 small onion, finely diced

1 small carrot, peeled and finely diced

2 celery stalks, finely diced

1/2 cup finely diced mushrooms

1 cup roasted diced lamb shoulder

5 sage leaves, coarsely chopped

2 cups lamb or chicken stock

Salt, pepper

Heat oil and saute onion, carrot, celery, mushrooms and lamb until tender. Mix in sage leaves.

Bring stock to boil, skim top and simmer until stock thickens and reduces to about 1/2 cup. Add onion mixture and season to taste with salt and pepper. Makes 4 servings.

LEONARD SCHWARTZ’S WHITEFISH LATKES WITH SOUR CREAM-SHALLOT SAUCE

1 tablespoon butter

2 tablespoons sweet red and yellow peppers

2 tablespoons minced onion

2 tablespoons minced green onions

2 tablespoons minced celery

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

1/8 teaspoon ground white pepper

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper

1/8 teaspoon ground nutmeg

1/8 teaspoon paprika

1 teaspoon lemon juice

1 egg, beaten

1/3 cup whipping cream

1 pound ground whitefish, (skin and bones removed)

1/2 cup bread crumbs

Oil

Sour Cream-Shallot Sauce

Heat butter and saute peppers, onion, green onions and celery until slightly cooked. Cool.

In large mixing bowl, blend together mustard, pepper, salt, cayenne, nutmeg, paprika, lemon juice, egg and cream. Add ground whitefish, pepper mixture and bread crumbs. Mix well.

Shape whitefish mixture into 2-inch round pancakes. Heat oil in skillet and fry pancakes until thoroughly browned on both sides. Using metal spatula, transfer to paper towels and pat dry. Serve immediately. Garnish with Sour Cream-Shallot Sauce. Makes about 10 latkes.

Sour Cream-Shallot Sauce

1 cup sour cream

2 tablespoons minced shallots

2 teaspoons lemon juice

Salt, pepper

In small bowl mix sour cream, shallots and lemon juice. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate. Makes 1/2 cup.

JONATHAN WAXMAN’S RED PEPPER AND CORN LATKES

1 sweet red pepper

3 eggs, separated

1/4 cup fresh or frozen corn kernels

1/2 cup milk

1/2 cup flour

1 tablespoon olive oil

Salt, pepper

Oil for frying

Creamy Corn Sauce

Salmon caviar, optional

Roast sweet red pepper in 375-degree oven 40 minutes, turning once. Skin will puff and brown. Peel, remove stem and discard seeds. Puree in blender or food processor.

In large bowl, combine sweet red pepper puree, egg yolks, milk and corn kernels. Mix well. Blend in flour. Beat egg whites until soft peaks form. Fold egg whites into sweet red pepper mixture. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

In non-stick or heavy skillet heat 1 to 2 tablespoons oil. For each latke, spoon 2 tablespoons batter into hot oil and fry on both sides until golden brown. Drain on paper towels. Serve with Creamy Corn Sauce and salmon caviar. Makes about 2 dozen.

Creamy Corn Sauce

2 tablespoons olive oil

1/4 cup corn kernels

1/2 sweet red pepper, finely diced

1 cup vegetable stock

1 cup whipping cream

Salt, pepper

2 tablespoons minced chives

Heat 1 tablespoon olive oil in skillet. Saute corn kernels until tender, about 2 minutes. Transfer to small bowl. Set aside. Heat remaining tablespoon olive oil. Saute diced sweet red pepper until tender, about 2 minutes. Set aside.

In saucepan, heat stock and reduce to about 1/2 cup. Blend in cream and simmer until thick. Add corn and red pepper. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Mix in chives. Serve warm. Makes about 1 1/2 cups.

MICHEL ONIYON’S MOROCCAN POTATO LATKES

2 pounds potatoes

Oil

1 medium onion, diced plus 1 tablespoon minced onion

Salt, pepper

1 pound ground beef

1/2 teaspoon minced parsley

1/2 teaspoon minced cilantro

Dash nutmeg

Dash mace, optional

Dash saffron, optional

1 egg

Cook potatoes in boiling water 45 minutes. Peel and mash. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in skillet and saute onion until tender. Add to potatoes. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Cool.

Brown ground beef in skillet, draining off excess fat. Add minced onion, parsley, cilantro, nutmeg, mace and saffron and cook until no juice remains. Cool and set aside. Using knife blade of food processor blend meat mixture with egg.

Using heaping tablespoon of mashed potato mixture, place in palm of hand and place teaspoon ground beef mixture in center. Roll potato mixture around meat mixture.

Heat oil in non-stick skillet or deep fry until brown and crisp. (This can be prepared in advance and warmed in oven, or served cold.) Serve with harissa sauce, which is combination of spicy hot pepper sauce made with chiles. It is found in most Middle Eastern markets. Makes about 10 latkes.

ANNE ROSENZWEIG’S ALL-AMERICAN CORN CAKE LATKES

1 1/2 cups fresh or frozen corn kernels

1/2 cup milk

1/3 cup yellow cornmeal

1/3 cup flour

1/4 cup butter, melted

2 eggs

2 egg yolks

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon black pepper

2 tablespoons chopped chives

Oil

Roughly chop corn kernels or process in short bursts in food processor until chunky but creamy consistency is reached. Place in large bowl and whisk in milk, cornmeal and flour, making sure there are no lumps.

In separate bowl, whisk together melted butter, whole eggs and egg yolks. Stir into corn mixture and add salt, pepper and chives.

Heat oil in large saute pan over medium-high heat and spoon in batter to make pancakes size of silver dollars. Fry 2 minutes, or until golden brown on 1 side, then flip over and fry 2 more minutes. Remove from pan using slotted spatula. Place 4 cooked corn cakes on each serving plate. Serve with spicy vegetable or fruit relish. Makes about 2 dozen.

LUCIANO PELLEGRINI’S ITALIAN RISOTTO LATKES

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 tablespoons chopped onion

2 1/2 cups arborio rice

Dash saffron, optional

1/2 cup white wine

1 quart vegetable broth

1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese

2 tablespoons butter

2 tablespoons whipping cream

Salt, pepper

Heat olive oil in large saucepan and saute onion. Add arborio rice and brown. Mix in saffron. Add wine and simmer few minutes until wine evaporates. Add half of broth and cook slowly, stirring until liquid evaporates. When dry add broth 1/4 cup at time about 25 minutes or until, until rice is tender. Remove from heat. Add Parmesan cheese, butter and cream. Mix well. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Cool. (This can be done day ahead).

Shape rice mixture into pancakes. Heat oil in large skillet pan. Fry on both sides until brown and crisp. Drain on paper towels. Serve immediately with favorite marinara sauce. Makes about 12 latkes.

Food Styling by Minnie Bernardino and Donna Deane