L.A.<i> Posadas</i> a Tradition of Mexico

If we can give up thoughts of Scrooge and Santa Claus and pine trees and snow and look south of the border for Christmas inspiration rather than to merry old England, the Mexican tradition of Las Posadas is as close to the real spirit of Christmas as those from colder climates.

Posada means inn, and Las Posadas are the nightly processions that re-create Mary and Joseph’s journey through Bethlehem as they searched for a place to spend the night on Christmas Eve. The charm of the posadas are in their simplicity: no Disneyesque extravaganzas, no commercial claptrap. It is as close to a folk tradition as we get in Los Angeles.

Several Locations

These costumed re-creations of the search for an inn take place on Olvera Street in downtown Los Angeles, in East Los Angeles, San Gabriel, Ventura and other parts of the Southland.

Olvera Street has had posadas for more than 40 years--as much for the merchants and their families who arrange them as for the public. Families hand down their costumes, a homey mix of vaguely biblical outfits, from generation to generation. The angels who lead the procession are chosen from among the youngest children. The clear voices in the crisp night air, the haunting melody, the light of the candles shining on their faces (especially the angels) are what make posadas so special.

The candlelight procession begins at the Avila Adobe at 8 p.m. and makes its way down the brick street to a predesignated shop, where several “innkeepers” are waiting inside. The music of the posada is done in a request-and-response format. The procession sings in Spanish (“Let’s walk, shepherds. We’re going to Bethlehem. . . .”). At the doorway, Mary and Joseph ask for shelter in song. The refusal, from beyond the door, also is sung.

Nightly until Dec. 23, the procession stops at a different door, is refused entry, then continues on its way, around Olvera Street and back to the adobe.

On Christmas Eve, the posada ends not with a refusal but with an invitation. Mary and Joseph are welcomed into the shop and emerge a few moments later with a baby Jesus doll cradled in Mary’s arms. The procession continues to the adobe, where a Nativity scene has been erected. Consuelo de Sousa, one of the shopkeepers, sings “Ave Maria” and the Three Wise Men arrive to pay homage.

Merchants Lead

While the costumed merchants lead the procession, the public is encouraged to follow their path. Unfortunately, voices do not carry far in the night and those in the rear walk without hearing the song. Another possibility is to walk parallel to the merchants on the opposite side of walkway, as a spectator to the procession rather than a participant but more within earshot. Either way, standing outside for a few hours can get chilly: Dress warmly.

The Olvera Street posadas begin at 7 p.m. with an hour of musical entertainment on the front porch of the Avila Adobe. Tonight through Dec. 20, a 30-student group from Guadalajara will sing and play mandolins. Other musicians will perform Dec. 21-23.

After the procession, a pinata -breaking is held in the plaza adjacent to La Luz del Dia restaurant. A sophisticated pulley system and the experienced hands of the merchants combine to make this one of the best-run pinata parties in the city. The “swing” area is roped off and children are picked at random from the group, blindfolded and handed a bat. Smaller children go before the bigger ones, and the pulley quickly whips the pinata safely into the air until a good number of youngsters have had turns. The moment the pinata cracks, kids can dash under the rope to collect the fallen candies.

The pinatas for the posada are more dazzling than most found in shops. They are all star-shaped and uniquely decorated by 84-year-old Clarita Ruiz, who has worked on Olvera Street most of her life. Ruiz makes her pinatas the traditional way, using an olla (clay pot) as the base rather than cardboard, and decorating them with crepe paper from Mexico. “I twist it like a sweet pea,” she says, “and no two are alike.”

Ruiz bemoans the commercialization of pinatas and the resulting lack of craftsmanship. And she’s not too keen on how the younger generation dresses for the posadas either--”They wear high heels instead of huaraches.”

The fourth annual Community Posada takes place tonight in East Los Angeles, beginning at 6 at the corner of 1st Street and Ditman Avenue. The procession (east on 1st, north on Hicks Avenue, west on Michigan Avenue and south on Ditman) will end where it started, culminating in a traditional Latino celebration complete with mariachi music, pinatas , bunuelos and other holiday fare.

Everyone is invited to join the procession, says posada chairperson Ana Maria Tellez: “This is a free community event that brings the entire community together and keeps our children in touch with their Mexican heritage.”

For further information, call (213) 269-5596.

Mission San Gabriel, 537 W. Mission Drive, San Gabriel, (818) 282-5191, will hold posadas Sunday, Monday and Thursday at 7 p.m. Because of earthquake damage, the posada no longer can be held in the picturesque mission itself but rather at the adjacent church. The crowd is divided into two groups to sign the request and response, and those who don’t know the words can simply hum along. Afterward, there will be light refreshments. Pinata -breakings will be held on some nights; call for schedule.

A posada begins at 7 tonight at the Olivas Adobe, 4200 Olivas Park Drive, Ventura, (805) 654-7837. The procession will make its way to the historic building at the park. Tours of the two-story house will be offered, a pinata -breaking follows.

Mission San Juan Capistrano, at Ortega Highway and Camino Real, (714) 493-1111, will begin its bilingual posada at 6 p.m. Sunday. The procession will make its way down the historic arched corridor, stopping at three places to ask for shelter, and end at the Serra Chapel. Visitors should meet in the parking lot between school and chapel at 6 p.m. Afterward, everyone is invited to the gym for refreshments and music.