The World’s Best Champagne--French--Is Spelled With a Capital ‘C’

French Champagne is still the king of the bubblies.

Every country that makes wine also makes some form of sparkling wine, but only that small region called Champagne, east of Paris, seems to have the growing conditions and the know-how to make it to perfection.

Of course there is an interesting argument that says that if California had come along first and had made a sparkling wine that defined what the stuff was all about, the French would be trying to duplicate it, not the other way around.

But the fact is that France was first, it set the style to which we have become accustomed and that we revere, and today no one who knows anything about wine disputes that Champagne, with the capital C, makes the world’s best sparkling wine.

Nor is there any challenge to the notion that in no other wine type is the gulf between the leader and what’s second so huge as it is with Champagne and everyone else’s bubbly. (Although California wine makers are closing the gap rather quickly; see the Wine of the Week.)

Price and Demand

Such recognition puts Champagne into a demand mode that forces prices up. Almost all the best French Champagnes are so prohibitively expensive that ounces are calculated in dollars, and buying a bottle requires you to do some fast calculations about your credit rating.

You get the idea I don’t drink a lot of such wine, alas.

However, I recently tasted a wide range of French Champagnes (for evaluation purposes only, of course; you understand that no enjoyment was intended). The result was, on the one hand, affirmation that the best French Champagne is, indeed, as good as its reputation, and conversely that a lot of what’s out there isn’t particularly exciting, given the prices.

Before looking at the wines, though, a brief discussion about making such a purchase and why certain holiday gatherings with friends are an appropriate time to make such a financial commitment.

When you have a party for 30 of your nearest and dearest friends, such as New Year’s Eve, you’ll need a lot of Champagne. Buying a case of Dom Perignon at $900 a case is therefore out of the question for most of us. In those settings, a more modest bottle of wine will have to do, and it is for such occasions (large mill-around gatherings) that we have bulk process sparkling wines that sell for $5 a bottle.

Technology being what it is these days, a lot of today’s bulk (Charmat) process sparkling wines provide good value for these herd parties. They match well with chips, dips and salted peanuts.

But when small groups of wine lovers, foodies or just plain good company gather for a casual chat around the fireplace, or a formal sit-down dinner, when fine wine can be shared and savored, that’s the time for the best.

And for that purpose I evaluated about 30 top-quality French Champagnes, from the so-called prestige cuvees down to some non- vintage, lower-priced wines. Evaluation covered about a two-month period, with most bottles tasted blind (without knowing which wine was which), although a few were tasted with sight of the label.

The Top Champagnes

The top 10 wines listed below all are marked by superb balance and richness; each of these wines is highly recommended and listed in order of my preference. The rest are good wines, but prices are a bit on the high side for what you get. Prices are suggested retail; some wines are usually discounted, others never. I did not list about a dozen wines I found wanting.

1. 1982 Philipponnat Clos des Goisses ($80): One of three single- vineyard designated wines from Champagne, this offering is a striking example of complexity from the Pinot Noir grape variety that accounts for 70% of its foundation. Creamy and complete in the aroma, it hints at hazelnuts, earth and truffles and has an aftertaste reminiscent of roses, most interesting. Unlike most of the others tasted, this wine is very deep and complex already, but clearly will improve with time “on the cork,” as they say. A magnificent wine.

2. 1982 Perrier-Jouet Fleur de Champagne ($68): A far more delicate wine than the above, with floral richness and subtle nuances that belie the fact that Pinot Noir dominates the blend. A clean, crisp, delightfully round finish, perfectly balanced.

3. 1979 Salon Le Mesnil ($100): Another vineyard-designated wine, this is a perfect Chardonnay-based opus, but it’s a wine that is hard to evaluate because of its crystal-clear fruit aroma and delicate complexity. It is therefore subtle. Salon improves in the bottle dramatically, so this wine will be better in time, but for sipping now, I suggest it be served with food. A magnificent wine in a most delicate package.

4. 1982 Ayala Grand Cuvee ($57): Fragrant fruit and delicacy mark the first whiff of this attractively made wine, with a slight toastiness and underlying richness that can’t be seen if the wine is served too cold.

5. Krug Grande Cuvee (non-vintage, $58): Classic roasted nut aroma, clearly indicative of Pinot Noir in the blend, with a toasty aftertaste. Always a treat and about as reliable a wine as I have tasted. The depth of this wine defines why Champagne is still king.

6. 1983 Bollinger Grande Annee ($40): Relatively toasty, with fresh nut (pecan or pine nut) elements; explosive fruit in mouth with plenty of depth and richness.

7. 1979 Bollinger R.D. ($80): Not as impressive as previous R.D. bottlings, but still rich and laden with the house style of fruit combining depth and a toastiness you expect. Very rich finish, but the Philipponnat is the same price . . . .

8. 1982 Dom Perignon ($86): One of the best DP’s in a while, with a lean entry, broad-soft middle and fruity finish. The aroma has an onion-skin element that hints at smokiness but that is not unattractive.

9. 1982 Laurent-Perrier Grande Siecle ($60): Full, rich, handsome aroma and mid-palate, but slightly simple finish.

10. 1982 Veuve Clicquot Carte Or ($38): Delicate fruit with a hint of expected toastiness, but with a more elegant, almost sweet, creamy finish. A lovely wine.

11. 1982 Ayala Brut ($28): Light fruit, yeasty delicacy in aroma, and a fine, fruity aftertaste. Nicely made, though a bit straightforward. Good value.

12. Perrier-Jouet Grand Brut (non-vintage, $22): Crisp, light and slightly toasty, with a marvelous fruit finish. Excellent value (and occasionally seen at $15).

13. Veuve Clicquot Brut (non-vintage, $22): Rich, slight toasted nut character with a full-bodied yet crisp finish. One of the most reliable of the less expensive wines on the market from year to year.

14. 1982 Lanson Brut ($27): Slight initial sulfur note airs off to reveal round, full flavors. Elegant, yet with a rich, toasty finish.

15. 1979 Krug Clos Mesnil ($80): The last of three vineyard-designated wines, it has a big, roasted, almost smoked aroma. This is a huge, mouth-filling wine that some tasters liked more than I. There was an oxidative element that knocked its score down for me.

16. Bollinger Special Cuvee (non-vintage, $25): Typical rich Bollinger style of wine, but with excellent fruit in the mouth and a crisp finish.

17. 1981 Lanson Tete de Cuvee 225th Anniversary ($43): Fairly crisp, slightly citrus aroma with hint of toast that indicates it will improve in the bottle. Fine balance.

18. 1982 Bricout Elegance ($45): Delicate aroma and simple entry, but nice, clean lines and attractive finish.

19. 1982 Deutz 150th Anniversary ($40): Simple, pleasant aroma of yeasty elements, but the taste is somewhat short.

20. 1982 Deutz Cuvee Lallier (non-vintage, $30): Direct, simple aroma combined with a pleasing, slightly oxidized finish.

I also sampled three wines designated Extra Dry, which are intended to be sweeter, and the best of the three was Lanson Ivory Label ($19) because of freshness. Second was Mumm ($20), which was fuller and richer, and last was Moet White Star ($27), which was clumsy and far sweeter than the others.

Wine of the Week: 1986 Firestone Merlot ($10)--One of the most honored Merlots in the state this year, wine maker Allison Green used new French oak for aging, and the result is a wine with light, delicate but perfect Merlot fruit character, hinting at cherries, olives and toasted vanilla. The aftertaste is lush and delicate, so the wine can be consumed now, but it will age handsomely. This wine is in limited supply because demand has been high.