A Gray Whale of a Tale

An estimated 18,000 or more gray whales are making their annual swim from Alaska to the lagoons of Baja California as Southlanders migrate to local ports for whale-watch excursions.

The watchers may not spot those two TV-star gray whales that were temporarily trapped in the frozen Bering Sea late last year, but there’s a good chance they’ll see other likable leviathans.

Some nature lovers opt for long voyages around the Baja peninsula into the Sea of Cortez in the hope of encountering more whales--humpback, fin, Bryde’s, orca and the enormous blue. Whale-watchers also will explore the islands and mainland of rugged Baja, which has been called the Galapagos of North America.

Boats will depart through April from 10 ports between Santa Barbara and San Diego in search of gray whales. Most are sportfishing vessels that carry from 80 to 145 passengers. Largest are Catalina Cruises’ triple-decked ferries that can carry 525 whale watchers.

Narrations Given

Excursions average 2 to 3 1/2 hours, but trips to the Channel or Coronado islands last longer. Since whale traffic is difficult to predict, the boat operator decides if a “whale check” for another trip will be given to passengers if a whale isn’t sighted.

Naturalists or volunteer guides from the Cabrillo Marine Museum or American Cetacean Society narrate on some vessels about the whales and other marine life. In most cases, however, it is the boat captain who gives the commentary.

For close-up views when the whales spout, fluke and breach, use binoculars and a telephoto lens for your camera. Also dress warmly. Pack a few refreshments if your boat doesn’t have a galley that sells snacks and drinks.

Departure times vary, but usually there are more frequent excursions on weekends and holidays.

Tickets for whale watching average $9 to $11 for adults, $6 to $8 for children. Sometimes fares are less on weekdays and for senior citizens.

Call listed numbers for specific ticket costs and departure times, reservations and directions to the dock.

San Pedro: Five companies offer whale-watch cruises from Los Angeles Harbor, with most departing from Ports O’Call Village. The choices there are L.A. Harbor Sportfishing, Berth 79, (213) 547-9916; Spirit Adventures, Berth W33, (213) 831-1073; Los Angeles Harbor Cruises, Village Boat House, (213) 831-0996, and Buccaneer-Mardi Gras Cruises (with weekend champagne brunch trips), (213) 547-2833. Also, Skipper’s 22nd Street Landing, 141 W. 22nd St., (213) 832-8304.

Long Beach: Largest of three companies operating whale excursions from Long Beach Harbor is Catalina Cruises at Catalina Landing, (213) 514-3838, (213) 775-6111 or (714) 527-7111. Two others are Belmont Pier Sportfishing, off Ocean Boulevard in Belmont Shore, (213) 434-6781, and Long Beach Sportfishing, Berth 55 off Pico Avenue, (213) 432-8993.

Redondo Beach: Redondo Sportfishing sets off in search of whales from 233 N. Harbor Drive, King Harbor, (213) 372-2111.

Newport Beach: Two whaling options are available from Newport Harbor--at the Balboa Pavilion, Davey’s Locker, (714) 673-1434, and Catalina Passenger Service, (714) 673-5245.

Oxnard: Taking off from Channel Islands Harbor is Cisco Sportfishing, (805) 985-8511 or toll-free (800) 322-3474.

Ventura: From Ventura Harbor, Island Packers, (805) 642-1393 or (805) 642-3370, offers a choice of four-hour excursions or all-day trips to Anacapa Island ($31, children $16).

Santa Barbara: This month, Sea Landing’s boat cruises all day from Santa Barbara Harbor to two other Channel islands--Santa Cruz and Santa Rosa ($40, children $20). Regular whale trips begin Feb. 11. Call (805) 963-3564.

Dana Point: Dana Wharf Sportfishing embarks whale watchers at Dana Point Harbor, (714) 496-5794. Departures are hourly during the harbor’s Festival of Whales (the last weekend in February and first two weekends in March). Orange County Marine Institute at Dana Point Harbor offers excursions preceded by a lecture; call (714) 496-2274.

Oceanside: At Oceanside Harbor, Helgren’s Sportfishing is the veteran whale-tour operator; (619) 722-2133.

San Diego: Six companies sail from San Diego, the major Southland center for whale watchers. Operating near Shelter Island from the municipal pier at Scott and Emerson streets is H&M; Landing, (619) 222-1144, and Point Loma Sportfishing, (619) 223-1627. (H&M; also makes all-day excursions to the Coronado Islands; $28, children $18.) A neighboring dock with whale departures is Fisherman’s Landing, (619) 222-0391.

In Mission Bay are two embarkation points--Seaforth Sportfishing in Quivira Basin, (619) 224-3383, and Islandia Sportfishing at 1551 W. Mission Bay Drive, (619) 222-1164. At the Embarcadero in downtown San Diego is Invader Cruises, (619) 234-8687.

Baja Lagoons: For closer encounters with California gray whales, longer trips depart from San Diego to San Ignacio and Scammons lagoons along Baja’s Pacific coast. That’s where the whales end their migration to mate and give birth.

Limit People Contact

These once-endangered creatures seem to relax at the completion of their 5,000-mile swim. A number of them have been dubbed “friendlies” because they come alongside skiffs that are lowered from the excursion vessels. Passengers can reach out and pet the barnacle-encrusted mothers and their newborn offspring.

To protect the whales from excessive human contact in the lagoons that are their age-old breeding and calving grounds, the Mexican government limits the number of boats that can enter. Currently, seven U.S. vessels have permission to visit San Ignacio and Scammons lagoons, and those sportfishing boats are based in San Diego.

At H&M; Landing are the Spirit of Adventure and Champ, while the Royal Star, Royal Polaris, Searcher, Qualifier and Pacific Queen operate from Fisherman’s Landing. From now into April, they make seven- to 11-day excursions that also visit wilderness islands along Baja’s Pacific side.

On Todos Santos, San Martin, San Benito and Cedros islands, you’ll see a rich array of animal, bird and plant life, including elephant seals, magnificent frigatebirds and desert wildflowers. The boat or tour staff includes naturalists who identify the flora and fauna.

These natural-history expeditions to the gray whale lagoons are organized by boat operators and tour agencies or groups that charter the vessels. Departure dates and tour prices vary considerably; cost from San Diego averages $140 per person per day, meals included.

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To help you find a berth on board, boat operators and charter groups with space still available for this season’s trips are listed below. Call them for tour details, availability and reservations.

H&M; Landing, 2803 Emerson St., San Diego 92106, (619) 222-1144, operates two vessels as agent for Pacific Sea Fari Tours. Many trips are led by whale expert Theodore J. Walker.

The Spirit of Adventure accommodates 30 passengers. Besides its own excursions, the vessel has been chartered by Oceanic Society Expeditions of San Francisco, (415) 441-1106. H&M; Landing’s 24-passenger Champ also has its own trips, plus charters for Oceanic Society Expeditions.

Fisherman’s Landing, 2838 Garrison St., San Diego 92106, is headquarters for five boats to Baja’s whale lagoons.

The Royal Star, (619) 226-8030, accommodates 22 passengers on its own trips, as well as on charters for the Orange County Marine Institute in Dana Point, (714) 496-3851, and California Pacific Expeditions in Alameda, (415) 521-7914.

A March charter trip on the Royal Polaris by Cabrillo Marine Museum, San Pedro, (213) 548-7563, is booked, but you might get on the waiting list.

The Searcher, (619) 226-2403, has its own trips, plus charters for the American Cetacean Society in San Pedro, (213) 548-6279, and Biological Journeys in McKinleyville, Calif., (707) 839-0178.

The Qualifier has berths for 30 passengers and has been chartered by Ocean Society Expeditions of San Francisco, (415) 441-1106.

Besides its own trips, the Pacific Queen has charter dates for the San Diego Natural History Museum. Contact Margie Stinson, (619) 726-2228, for bookings.

If you would rather not sail to the whale lagoons, overland trips to San Ignacio are run by Baja’s Frontier Tours based in San Diego, (619) 232-1600. It’s owned by Karen and Piet Van de Mark, who have been escorting visitors around the peninsula since 1966.

Sea of Cortez: Other whale excursions go to the eastern side of Baja through the Gulf of California, which most tour brochures call the Sea of Cortez. Those boat trips are scheduled into early April, and many of them begin or end in La Paz.

Especially luxurious are cruises on the Polaris, the 80-passenger vessel of Special Expeditions of New York City, (212) 765-7740 or toll-free (800) 762-0003. Passengers are pampered and go ashore with naturalists in rubber landing craft to explore uninhabited islands and remote sections of the peninsula accessible from the gulf.

Special Expeditions’ most extensive trips circumnavigate Baja in order to view several species of whales. Those 15-day nature cruises are also the most expensive, starting at $3,950, with air fare from Los Angeles. Eleven-day sojourns begin at $2,700.

Other Sea of Cortez nature tours can be made aboard the 20-passenger Don Jose and the Baja Explorador. The trips are organized by Baja Expeditions of San Diego, (619) 581-3311 or toll-free (800) 843-6967.

That company also sails with the Don Jose to see gray whales in Magdalena Bay on the Pacific side of the peninsula. A similar trip is offered by Biological Journeys, (707) 839-0178.

Biological Journeys also charters the Don Jose and Baja Explorador for whale excursions in the Sea of Cortez. Two other trips in that gulf aboard the Don Jose are chartered by the American Cetacean Society, (213) 548-6279.

Pacific Sea Fari Tours runs a Sea of Cortez trip on the Spirit of Adventure from H&M; Landing, (619) 222-1144, and that vessel is chartered for similar excursions by Oceanic Society Expeditions, (415) 441-1106. Oceanic Society Expeditions also has a Sea of Cortez trip aboard the Qualifier.