Variations on a Desert Classic

Stuffed dates, date-nut bread, date shakes, Waldorf salad with dates--you would expect to find these old-timers in a collection of recipes dealing with the sweet fruit of the date palm. But times have changed considerably, and contemporary chefs are using the date in innovative ways.

Chef Antonio Jimenez of Cafe Cafe in Westwood adds dates to peanut sauce for linguine and spices the unusual mixture with Thai red curry paste. Hugo Molina of the Parkway Grill in Pasadena simmers dates with raspberry vinegar, Port, cream and shallots to make a rosy sauce for sliced duck breast.

Roger Pigozzi, executive chef of the Biltmore Hotel, has a couple of ideas that will come in handy for future holiday seasons as well as for special occasions now. Individual molded souffles that blend wild rice, dates and celery root make a dressy addition to a dinner plate. The date and apricot stuffing that Pigozzi suggests for pork chops and game should also work well with poultry.

The only note of tradition is Georgian chicken with dates, a family recipe from Fred Powers, the proprietor of Gorky’s Cafe and Russian Brewery. The chicken simmers with vegetables, wine and other ingredients in a sauce that is lightly sweetened with sugar and dates.

LINGUINE WITH PEANUT SAUCE AND DATES Antonio Jimenez, Cafe Cafe

2 to 3 tablespoons half and half

1/2 teaspoon sesame oil

1/2 teaspoon Thai red curry paste

1/2 teaspoon sugar

Dash salt

1/2 cup dates, slivered

1 tablespoon creamy peanut butter

Oil

4 ounces cooked linguine

Chopped parsley

Heat 2 tablespoons half and half and sesame oil in small skillet. Add curry paste, sugar, salt and dates. Heat, blending well. Stir in peanut butter. If sauce is too thick, add remaining 1 tablespoon half and half. Mix with cooked pasta. Heat 1 teaspoon oil in skillet. Add pasta and saute lightly 1 minute. Serve garnished with parsley. Makes 1 serving.

BAKED DUCK BREAST WITH DATE AND PORT WINE SAUCE Hugo Molina, Parkway Grill

1 cup orange juice

1/2 cup dark beer

1/2 cup Coca Cola

3 tablespoons mixed fresh herbs (oregano, tarragon, basil)

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

1 tablespoon black peppercorns, coarsely crushed

1 teaspoon chopped garlic

3 bay leaves

4 (8-ounce) duck breasts

Date and Port Wine Sauce

Combine orange juice, beer, Coca Cola, herbs, mustard, peppercorns, garlic and bay leaves in non-aluminum container and mix well. Add duck breasts, turning to coat. Cover and refrigerate 1 hour. Meanwhile, make Date and Port Wine Sauce. Remove duck breasts from marinade and pat dry. Place on baking sheet and bake at 350 degrees 30 minutes. Cut breasts crosswise into thin slices and place on plate in fan shape. Spoon sauce over. Makes 4 servings.

Date and Port Wine Sauce

1 tablespoon chopped shallots

1/4 cup soft unsalted butter

1/2 cup Port wine

8 to 10 pitted dates, seeded and chopped

1/2 cup duck or chicken stock

5 tablespoons raspberry vinegar

1 1/2 cups whipping cream

Salt, pepper

Saute shallots in 2 tablespoons butter until tender. Add Port wine and dates and cook 2 minutes over high heat. Add stock and vinegar and cook 3 minutes. Add cream, lower heat to medium and reduce sauce by half. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Cut remaining 2 tablespoons butter into small pieces and add 1 at time, swirling pan to incorporate. Remove sauce from heat, strain through medium colander and keep warm. Makes 1 3/4 cups.

WILD RICE AND DATES SOUFFLE Roger Pigozzi, Biltmore Hotel

3 ounces wild rice (about 2/3 cup)

1 ounce celery root, peeled and cut in fine dice

1 medium onion, diced

1/2 cup pitted dates, diced

1 1/4 cups chicken stock

5 eggs

1/3 cup whipping cream

Salt

Nutmeg

1/4 cup butter

Clean, wash and cook rice. There will be about 2 cups. Cook celery root, onion and dates in chicken stock until soft, about 15 minutes. Add rice and cool slightly. Combine rice mixture, eggs and cream and season to taste with salt and nutmeg. Place half of mixture in blender and blend 30 seconds. Remove and repeat with remaining mixture. Combine blended ingredients.

Butter individual molds large enough to hold 1/4 cup mixture. If desired, larger molds holding 1/2 cup mixture may be used. Spoon mixture into molds and set in pan of hot water. Bake at 325 degrees 30 minutes for 1/4 cup souffles and 45 minutes for 1/2 cup souffles or until knife inserted in souffle comes out clean. Remove from hot water bath. Run knife around edge of each mold, invert on plate and serve hot. Makes 10 (1/2 cup) servings.

DATE AND APRICOT STUFFING Roger Pigozzi, Biltmore Hotel

1 small onion, chopped

1/2 cup butter

1 cup white wine

1/2 pound pitted dates, quartered (about 1 1/2 cups)

1/4 pound unsweetened dried apricots, chopped

1 (1-pound) loaf bread, cut into 1-inch cubes

2 eggs

1 cup chicken stock

1 tablespoon crushed rosemary, or to taste

Salt, pepper

Saute onion in butter until brown. Add wine and boil until reduced by half. Add dates and apricots and reduce by half. Place bread in large bowl. Add date mixture and eggs and mix. Add enough chicken stock to make mixture moist but not too wet. Season to taste with rosemary, salt and pepper. Use as stuffing for pork chops or with game. Makes about 7 cups.

GEORGIAN DATE CHICKEN Fred Powers, Gorky’s Cafe and Russian Brewery

1 (4-pound) roasting chicken, cut into serving pieces

Salt, pepper

Paprika

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 medium carrot

2 stalks celery

1 small onion

1/2 cup dry white wine

2 to 3 cups chicken stock

6 black peppercorns

2 bay leaves

24 pitted dates

2 tablespoons flour

2 tablespoons lemon juice

1 tablespoon sugar

Wash chicken pieces and pat dry with paper towel. Sprinkle with salt, pepper and paprika to taste. Heat 1 tablespoon butter in Dutch oven or large heavy skillet. Add chicken and cook over medium high heat until brown on all sides. Remove to platter.

Cut carrot, celery and onion into 1/4-inch-thick slices. Heat remaining butter in Dutch oven, add vegetables and cook over moderate heat until butter begins to foam. Add chicken and wine and cook over medium high heat until liquid is almost evaporated. Tie peppercorns and bay leaves in cheesecloth bag. Add bag and 1/2 cup chicken stock to Dutch oven. Bring to boil, lower heat and simmer, covered, 10 minutes. Turn chicken. Add another 1/2 cup stock, cover and simmer 30 minutes. Check after 15 minutes. If stock has reduced too much, add more stock.

In skillet, melt 1 tablespoon butter. Add flour and cook and stir over medium heat 3 to 4 minutes. Add 1 cup chicken stock, lemon juice and sugar. Cook until bubbly and thickened. Pour over chicken in Dutch oven. Add dates, adjust seasoning and simmer 5 minutes longer. Arrange chicken on platter and cover with sauce. Serve with rice or boiled potatoes. Makes 4 to 6 servings.

Food Styling by Minnie Bernardino and Donna Deane