Tarts and Flowers

If you could put together the ultimate meal for Valentine’s Day, it might turn out something like the following. . . Of course it means a lot of hopping around town:

Cocktails: A martini at Mason’s, 11500 San Vicente Blvd., West Los Angeles. (213) 826-5666. Style: ‘30s-looking restaurant with a great bar. Setting: The Thin Man meets Ralph Lauren. Cost: $4.25.

Soup: The eggplant soup (only 150 calories per bowl) at Champagne, 10506 Little Santa Monica Blvd., West Los Angeles. (213) 470-8446. Style: A grown-up restaurant with state-of-the-art California/French/Spa cuisines. Setting: Back door entrance to cozy elegance. Cost: $4.50

Salad: “Andrea’s salad” at Spago, 1114 Horn Ave., West Hollywood. (213) 652-4025. Style: L.A.’s numero un o celeb hangout, also known for terrific food. Setting: High Voltage. Cost: $9.50

Pasta: Pasta with fresh truffles at Valentino, 3115 Pico Blvd., Santa Monica. (213) 829-4313. Style: Haute Italian served in haute splendor. Setting: Italian palazzo-esque. Cost: $27.

Meat: The Porterhouse steak for two (that’s three pounds of meat) at Ruth’s Chris Steak House, 224 S. Beverly Dr., Beverly Hills. (213) 859-8744. Style: Where the elite eat red meat. Setting: Dark-mirrored masculine paradise. Cost: $40.

Fish: Daurade Royale at La Toque, 8171 Sunset Blvd., Los Angeles. (213) 656-7515. Style: California French for foodies. Setting: Normandy chic. Cost: $24.

Dessert: Mille Feuille with creme brulee at Citrus, 6703 Melrose Ave., Los Angeles. (213) 857-0034. Style: California-French. Voted best new restaurant in America in ’88. Setting: Sit on the patio and see through the looking glass into the kitchen. Cost: $5.

The total cost of this dream meal is only $228.50 per couple. That, of course, is without wine, tax or tips.