FOOD : Fish on the Grill : A Glaze of Tarragon and Honey Graces Peter Roelant’s Norwegian Salmon

PETER ROELANT’S appointment last August as chef at Four Oaks Restaurant in Beverly Glen, was the result of much substantial earlier training. Work periods with premier chefs in Switzerland and a three-year stint with French chef Fredy Giradet had culminated in Roulant’s six-year term as chef at L’Orangerie in Los Angeles

Early on, his mentors’ passion for cooking rubbed off. So even when he takes an evening off to visit friends, he often takes over the kitchen. That’s what happened the time he created Grilled Salmon With Tarragon- Honey Glaze.

“Home cooks have a tendency to overcook things on the barbecue, so I decided to show some friends how to prepare Norwegian salmon properly in a simple yet glamorous way,” he says.

To the basting sauce, he added honey and tarragon, bringing a sharp but sweet flavor to the glaze. Sweet, young leeks, cooked in their own juices, served as a bed for the salmon.

Roelant’s menu began with a salad of grilled whole baby vegetables, which he tossed with pomegranate seeds and a lemon dressing. For dessert, Roelant prepared a passion fruit souffle, but he says that any fruit souffle, light Bavarian cream or pudding will do.

GRILLED SALMON WITH TARRAGON-HONEY GLAZE

3 large leeks

2 tablespoons butter

Salt, pepper

1/4 cup half and half or whipping cream

2 (6-ounce) slices salmon

3 tablespoons wild honey

1 tablespoon chopped zest of orange

1 tablespoon chopped zest of lemon

Juice of 1 lemon

2 tablespoons chopped fresh tarragon

Rinse leeks thoroughly under running cold water. Cut into 1-inch sections. Melt 2 tablespoons butter in skillet and add leeks. Cook over medium heat 5 minutes. Add salt and pepper to taste and cream. Continue cooking 5 minutes longer or until tender. Place leeks in center of 2 oven-warmed plates. Set aside.

Season salmon with salt and pep- per. Whir honey, orange and lemon zests, lemon juice and tarragon in blender until smooth. Brush or coat salmon with tarragon-honey glaze mixture.

Grill over medium coals or under broiler 2 1/2 minutes on each side, for medium rare, or to desired degree of doneness, basting with glaze during cooking. Place salmon over leeks mixture. Makes 2 servings.

Styled by Robin Tucker. Food styling by Norman Stewart. Tableware, mat, marble fruit from The Pavilion at Tanner Market, Pasadena; napkin from Crate & Barrel.