In 1980, 100,000 people signed petitions to...

In 1980, 100,000 people signed petitions to keep Dolores’ from closing down. To no avail. The City of Beverly Hills wasn’t interested in drive-ins anymore--even one that was a celebrity hang-out, one where the movie, “Mildred Pierce,” was shot. It was a sad day when the restaurant closed.

But now it has reopened. It’s not a drive-in anymore, and it no longer occupies the corner of Wilshire and La Cienega. But once you get inside the door you know that none of that matters.

Sit down. Slow down. Let the waitress call you “honey” a couple of times, and wait for one of the waiters to ask you how much sugar you want in your lemonade. Order some Suzie Q’s, sip a malt. Before long you’ll realize that this is still the real thing, an honest to goodness unself-conscious American joint. Dolores’ is back, and without even trying, it’s exactly the sort of place that all those newly minted diners wish that they could be.

Dolores’ Drive In, 8925 Olympic Boulevard, Beverly Hills. (213) 657-7455. Open Sunday-Thursday, 6 a.m. to midnight; open 24 hours on Friday and Saturday.