Food, Food, Food at Cabo Cabo Cabo

The waitress removed the plate. The fact that it was still full did not seem to distress her. “Ooh,” she said as she bore it away, “is that pasta?” I told her it was calamari . She nodded. “I looked down at it when I picked it up from the kitchen,” she said, “and there were these little feet--you know, the tentacles--waving in the air. And I thought, like, how can people eat that stuff?”

Most people at the wonderfully colorful Cabo Cabo Cabo in the Century City Marketplace, (213) 552-2226, probably won’t be eating that stuff. They’ll be pigging out on the all-you-can-eat fajitas ($7.95), indulging in huge hamburgers ($5.95 with a big heap of curlicue French fries), or eating the grilled fish, the gigantic salads or the pizzas cooked in the wood-burning oven. And they’ll be drinking; there are 50 beers, 40 tequilas, and just about every other sort of alcoholic beverage you’ve ever encountered.

This is, as you can see, a restaurant that leaves no taste unmet. And no wonder. The owners are Marlene Morris (of Panama Red’s), Bob Morris (of R.J.’s, Gladstone’s, etc.) and Bryant Morris (of Raging Waters Park). They’ve put together a virtual theme park of a place here, and if you aren’t having fun, it’s not because they’re not trying.