A Tip ‘o’ the Hat to Chapo

A chapeau is a hat. But it is also an expression. When the French think something is really swell they say “chapeau!”

Clearly the owners of Melrose Avenue’s newest restaurant want us to think the place is swell. It’s called Chapo, it’s at 7661 Melrose Ave., (213) 655-2924, and it seems to have opened almost overnight. The new Chapo’s a sleek little place whose size and shape give it the air of a restaurant hidden away on a back street in Manhattan.

But when it comes to cooking, Chapo is strictly Californian. Appetizers include dishes such as baked goat cheese, salads are made of baby lettuce, and there is plenty of pasta. Entrees include grilled salmon surrounded by crunchily sauteed vegetables.

If the food looks vaguely familiar, it’s not surprising. Chef Guy Leroy trained with Wolfgang Puck at Baumaniere in France, and he has been involved with at least one Spago clone. But this isn’t Spago--and neither are the prices. Appetizers are in the $6 range, entrees are in the low teens, wines are reasonable and desserts (try the rice tart), are $3.50.

Keep it under your hat.