Totables : Expand your dessert repertoire beyond the tried-and-true with these sweet treats that travel

Are you the guest who often ends up with the assignment of making the dessert for a potluck affair?

Accept the sweet honor then, that is, if you haven’t already volunteered for the task. High on everyone’s list of choices for the feast, desserts are often looked upon as the grand finale that beautifully tops off any meal.

Some people will stop at nothing to get hold of a good-tasting or stunning dessert recipe to take to that next gathering (Memorial Day weekend for one thing), whether a picnic at the park, a church social, beach party, a luncheon or weekend brunch or just a cozy video watching session. There are a huge number of sweet creations to select from--more than there are reasons for partying.

The old mores concerning food safety limited one to taking plain and flairless cookies and pies, icebox cakes, and sheetcakes left in pans when traveling. Adventurous palates, for example, can still present the best evidence of their culinary talent with cold summer endings. At your service today are convenient coolers and freezer gels that allow you to preserve the ideal cold temperature of some of these desserts.

Loading up on the good things also means just a little extra planning mixed with some creative energy. Don’t assume that the host will have every serving platter and decorations, much less refrigerator or freezer space ready for you. Painted baskets accented with bright ribbons, scarfs or lined with a printed fabric can contain that luscious fresh fruit pie or batch of muffins. Cakes served on baking pans can be presented more cheerily by tying a pretty sash with a bow around the pan. If you can spare a large old hat box and line the bottom with with pastel or bright-colored tissue, it’ll do wonders for cookies or cakes.

In addition to your tried-and-true collection of totable sweets, here’s a collection of concoctions to please your friends for future entertaining.

Going a step farther than one’s favorite spice cookie but not as ambitious as an intricate gingerbread house is a delicious Scottish Gingerbread, adapted from a Scottish recipe from food consultant/home economist Margaret Dennis. A perfect potluck dessert candidate, the cake remains moist for days, as well as aromatic with its spicy perfume. To relieve the sweet flavor of molasses, Dennis accompanies the cake with Lemon Curd and from what we’ve heard, the combination never fails to win raves.

Frostings and glazes, which are fairly unstable, can present a problem with traveling cakes. Whipped cream may be stabilized with gelatin but for a richer, purer-tasting icing, try “whipping” the cream in a food processor. But process only until it starts getting stiff. You’ll be surprised how long this icing will last aside from its ability to spread well. A basic chocolate cake can gain visual appeal by lacing it with a luscious drizzle of Fudgy Chocolate Glaze, which is made by heating sweetened condensed milk and semisweet chocolate. The temptation goes deeper when the gooey glaze is interspersed with fresh raspberries, resulting in a sprightly partnership of sweet and tart.

Perfect for more formal celebrations and sinfully chocolaty is Chocolate-Chocolate-Chocolate-Chip Fudge Cake by Peter Sussman of the Phoenix in Warren, Vt. It’s “a grown-up rendition of a chocolate birthday cake for a friend who’s still a kid at heart,” according to a wonderful new book called Great Desserts (Stewart, Tabori & Chang: $29.95), which features a collection of more than 200 dessert recipes compiled by Mardee Haidin Regan from restaurants, leading chefs and culinary authorities. Another recipe from the book is the Carrot Pecan Coffee Cake with Praline Streusel, portable and appropriate for a brunch get-together.

Don’t be afraid of toting meringues, but don’t do them on a rainy or humid day. Meringue shells when properly baked and dried in the oven can be packed separately and the filling added later. Cashew Meringue Sans Rival offers a scrumptious taste with its coffee flavored butter cream filling. A beautiful approach is to garnish with assorted fresh berries or other colorful fruits like kiwi, peach or mango.

Another goodie has a tropical flair, Coconut Cream Jellyroll has a delicate cooked filling that serves as a frosting as well. Sprinkled with toasted coconut, it packs well in a plastic container. Far from being low-cal or lightweight, Cheesecake Flan is one rich-tasting, creamy hybrid dessert. The caramel has replaced the crust while sweetness is relieved by the tangy zest of lime.

Easiest to tote are our Beach Brownies, lusciously made with chopped macadamias and white chocolate. We’re sans an ice cream dessert, which of course travels well a few blocks but much longer if you pack it in a cooler insulated with loads of ice or freezer gels. If making any of these is too time-consuming, there are always many new and old bakeries (ethnic and traditional) and patisseries to turn to. Naturally, that way, however, you’re missing the challenge.

SCOTTISH

GINGERBREAD

WITH LEMON CURD

3 1/2 cups all-purpose flour

1/8 teaspoon salt

4 1/2 teaspoons ground ginger

1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg

1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon ground allspice

2 teaspoons baking soda

1/2 cup brown sugar

1 cup butter or margarine

2 cups molasses

1 cup milk

4 eggs, beaten

8 ounces golden raisins

4 ounces chopped candied ginger

Lemon Curd

Sift together flour, salt, ginger, nutmeg, cinnamon, allspice and baking soda into large bowl. Combine butter and molasses in saucepan and heat over low heat until melted. Gradually beat in milk to blend. Cool. Stir in beaten eggs.

Stir egg mixture into dry ingredients, mixing just until blended. Fold in raisins and candied ginger. Pour into greased 13x9-inch baking pan. Bake at 300 degrees 1 1/4 hours or until cake tester inserted in center comes out dry. Cool on rack. Serve in squares with Lemon Curd. Makes 10 to 12 servings.

Lemon Curd

2 teaspoons grated lemon zest

1 cup fresh lemon juice

3/4 cup sugar

1/2 cup butter or margarine

3 eggs, lightly beaten

Combine lemon zest, lemon juice and sugar in saucepan. Stir in butter and eggs. Cook over medium heat, stirring constantly until mixture thickens and coats back of spoon, about 8 minutes (do not boil). Immediately pour into 1-pint container or 2 1-cup containers. Cover and store, covered, up to 1 month in refrigerator. Makes 2 cups.

CASHEW MERINGUE

SANS RIVAL

3 eggs, separated

1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar

1 1/4 cups sugar

1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla

1 cup finely chopped cashew nuts

1/4 cup water

1/2 cup butter or margarine

1/2 basket strawberries

1/3 cup drained canned blackberries

1 cup whipped cream, optional

Mint leaves, optional

Generously grease and flour bottom of 10-inch tart or pie pan (or line with parchment paper). Beat egg whites with cream of tartar until soft peaks form. Slowly add 3/4 cup sugar, beating until stiff but not dry. Fold in 1 teaspoon vanilla and 3/4 cup cashews (do not overmix). Spread meringue evenly on prepared pan. Bake at 275 degrees 50 minutes. Turn off oven. Let stand in oven with door closed at least 1 hour until meringue is dry.

Combine remaining 1/2 cup sugar and 1/4 cup water in saucepan over medium high heat. Bring to boil and simmer until syrupy (125 degrees on candy thermometer). While cooking syrup, beat egg yolks until very light. Beat in hot syrup, adding all at once, until smooth. Cool in refrigerator.

Cream butter until light. Beat in yolk mixture until creamy smooth. Beat in remaining 1/2 teaspoon vanilla. (Mixture may be stored, covered, in refrigerator up to 5 days.)

To assemble, spread meringue shell with butter cream mixture. Sprinkle with remaining cashews. Arrange strawberries and blackberries in alternating pattern on top. Pipe whipped cream around edges or on center. Garnish with mint leaves, if desired. Makes 6 to 8 servings.

Note: For transporting, leave meringue (loosened) in pie shell. Pack butter cream, fruits and whipped cream in separate containers, keeping cold in cooler. Assemble quickly at party.

Variation: Individual Meringue Shells with Coffee Butter Cream: Cover 2 baking sheets with parchment or heavy brown paper. Drop meringue by 1/3 cups onto paper, about 2 inches apart. Shape into circles with back of spoon, building up side.

Bake at 275 degrees 1 1/2 hours. Turn off oven and leave meringue in oven with door closed at least 1 1/2 hours longer. Makes 8 to 10 shells. Butter cream may be flavored with 1 tablespoon coffee dissolved in 1 tablespoon hot water added to beaten yolks. For topping, use assortment of berries or cut up fruits in season as well as chopped nuts.

BEACH BROWNIES

2 eggs

1/2 cup granulated sugar

1 cup flour

1 cup semisweet chocolate pieces, melted

2 teaspoons vanilla

1/2 cup butter or margarine, melted

1 1/4 cups chopped macadamia or cashew nuts

3/4 cup semisweet white chocolate pieces

Powdered sugar, optional

Beat eggs until frothy. Slowly add granulated sugar, beating until light and ribbony. Fold in melted chocolate and vanilla. Stir in melted butter, then add flour, mixing just until blended. Fold in macadamias and white chocolate.

Turn mixture into buttered and floured 13x9-inch baking pan. Bake at 350 degrees 20 to 25 minutes. Do not overbake. Cool in pan on rack. Cut into squares and sprinkle with powdered sugar if desired. Makes about 2 dozen brownies.

CHEESECAKE FLAN

1 cup sugar

2 (8-ounce) package cream cheese, softened

6 eggs

1 1/2 cups milk or half and half

1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla

1 tablespoon grated lime or other citrus zest

2 tablespoons liqueur, optional

Caramelize 1/2 cup sugar in heavy skillet and quickly pour into 1 1/2-quart baking ring mold or round or loaf pan. Cool.

Beat cream cheese until creamy. Beat in eggs and milk until smooth. Beat in vanilla, lime zest and favorite liqueur, if desired. Turn into caramel-lined mold. Place in larger pan and fill pan with 2 inches water for bain-marie baking. Bake at 350 degrees 65 minutes or until done. Invert onto serving plater when cool. Makes 6 to 8 servings.

COCONUT CREAM JELLYROLL

2 1/4 cups milk

2/3 cup sugar

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/2 cup flour

3 egg yolks

3 tablespoons butter

2 teaspoons vanilla

Basic Sponge Cake Roll

1 to 1 1/2 cups flake coconut

Heat milk in top of double boiler over simmering water. Combine sugar, salt and flour and add to mixture slowly into milk. Cook, stirring constantly until smooth, about 10 minutes.

Beat egg yolks until light. Add to milk mixture. Cook and stir 3 minutes and remove from heat. Beat in butter and vanilla. Cool.

Unroll Basic Sponge Cake Roll and spread half of filling over surface. Sprinkle over 1/2 cup flake coconut. Reroll cake and transfer to serving container. (Jellyroll may be cut into desired lengths, if desired.) Spread outside of roll with remaining cream. Sprinkle with remaining flake coconut (toasted until lightly browned if desired). Makes about 10 servings.

Basic Sponge Cake Roll

4 eggs, separated

2/3 cup sugar

1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla

2/3 cup cake flour, sifted

Dash salt

1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar

Beat egg yolks lightly in large bowl. Add 1/3 cup sugar and continue to beat until mixture is thick and falls slowly from beaters leaving ribbonlike trail. Beat in vanilla, then gently fold in flour, 1/3 cup at time.

With clean beaters, beat egg whites until foamy in another large bowl. Add salt and cream of tartar and continue to beat until soft peaks form. Gently fold egg whites into egg yolk mixture just until no streaks remain.

Spread batter evenly in 15x11-inch jellyroll pan that has been greased, floured and lined with parchment or wax paper. Bake at 350 degrees about 15 minutes, until top springs back when gently pressed with finger. Cool in pan 5 minutes.

Turn cake out onto kitchen towel sprinkled with powdered sugar. Remove paper from bottom of cake. Trim crust on all sides. Carefully roll up cake in towel and cool completely on wire rack. Makes 1 cake.

PETER SUSSMAN’S CHOCOLATE-CHOCOLATE-CHOCOLATE-CHIP FUDGE CAKE

(“Great Desserts”)

1/2 cup plus 2 2/3 tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature

2 cups sugar

3 eggs

2 cups sifted all-purpose flour

3/4 cup unsweetened cocoa powder, preferably Dutch process

1 1/4 teaspoons baking soda

1/4 teaspoon baking powder

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 1/2 cups milk

1 teaspoon vanilla

1/4 cup chocolate mint flavored liqueur (such as Vandermint)

Chocolate Fudge Filling

3 tablespoons chocolate pieces

Chocolate Cream

Chocolate Syrup

Line 2 (9-inch) round cake pans with wax paper. Butter and flour pans. Tap out any excess flour. In mixer bowl cream butter until light and fluffy. Gradually add sugar and continue beating until smooth. One at time, beat in eggs until well blended. Sift together flour, cocoa powder, baking soda, baking powder and salt. Add to egg mixture in thirds, alternating with milk, mixing only until blended. Blend in vanilla and liqueur.

Divide batter between 2 prepared pans. Bake until tops of cakes are springy to touch, 40 to 45 minutes. Remove from oven and set on racks to cool 30 minutes. Loosen edges with knife and unmold. Peel off wax paper. Set cakes on rack and cool completely.

To assemble cover 1 cake layer with all of Chocolate Fudge Filling. Sprinkle evenly with chocolate pieces. Spread 1/2 cup Chocolate Cream on top of chocolate pieces. Top with second cake layer and cover top and sides of cake with half of remaining Chocolate Cream. Use remainder in pastry bag to decorate cake as desired. Refrigerate up to 3 hours before serving time.

Just before serving, drizzle syrup over top of cake in lacy design. Garnish with more chocolate pieces if desired. Makes 10 to 12 servings.

Chocolate Fudge Filling

2/3 cup sugar

1/2 cup whipping cream

2 1/2 ounces unsweetened chocolate

1 tablespoon light corn syrup

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

Combine sugar, whipping cream, chocolate and corn syrup in small heavy saucepan. Bring to simmer over moderate heat, stirring frequently. Reduce heat to low and cook 10 minutes, or until mixture thickens.

Remove from heat. Dot top with butter and let cool to room temperature, about 15 minutes. When cool, stir in butter until fudge filling is smooth and creamy.

Chocolate Cream

2 1/2 cups whipping cream

3 1/2 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa powder, preferably Dutch process

7 tablespoons powdered sugar

Beat cream and cocoa until soft peaks form. Gradually add powdered sugar and continue beating until stiff.

Chocolate Syrup

2 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa powder, preferably Dutch process

2 tablespoons light corn syrup

1 tablespoon sugar

2 tablespoons water

Combine cocoa, corn syrup, sugar and water in small heavy saucepan. Bring to simmer over low heat and cook, stirring constantly 2 minutes. Transfer syrup to small bowl and let cool to room temperature, stirring once or twice to prevent skin from forming.

CARROT-PECAN COFFEE CAKE WITH PRALINE STREUSEL

(“Great Desserts”)

1 cup flour

1 cup whole wheat flour

1 tablespoon baking powder

1 1/2 teaspoons baking soda

1 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

1/2 teaspoon ground mace

1 cup unsalted butter, softened

1 1/4 cups dark brown sugar, packed

4 eggs

2 cups shredded carrots

1 cup chopped pecans

Praline Streusel

Sift together flours, baking powder, baking soda, salt, cinnamon, nutmeg and mace in large bowl. In another bowl cream butter and brown sugar until fluffy. Beat in eggs, adding 1 at time. Stir in carrots. Add dry ingredients and stir until well blended. Fold in pecans. Turn batter into oiled 9-inch springform pan, spreading evenly. Sprinkle streusel evenly over top of batter.

Bake at 350 degrees 1 hour, or until wood pick inserted in center comes out clean. Cool in pan on rack 1 hour. Carefully remove sides of springform pan and allow cake to cool at least 30 minutes. Serve warm or at room temperature. Makes 12 to 14 servings.

Praline Streusel

1/2 cup flour

1/4 cup dark brown sugar, packed

1/4 cup unsalted butter, chilled

1/3 cup chopped pecans

Combine flour and sugar, Cut in butter until size of small peas. Add pecans and toss with fork to mix.

DIVINE NECTARINE

BARS

4 nectarines

1/2 cup butter or margarine

1 cup brown sugar, packed

3 eggs

1 cup flour

1 teaspoon baking powder

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon vanilla

1/2 cup flake coconut

1 cup powdered sugar

2 tablespoons lemon juice

Mint sprigs

Coarsely chop nectarines to measure 1 cup. (Reserve remaining for slicing.) Cream butter with 1/4 cup brown sugar. Beat in 2 eggs. Mix in 3/4 cup flour and 1/2 teaspoon baking powder until soft and smooth. Spread dough into greased 13x9-inch baking pan. Bake at 350 degrees 10 minutes.

Meanwhile beat remaining egg with 3/4 cup brown sugar until fluffy. Mix in remaining 1/4 cup flour, 1/2 teaspoon baking powder and salt. Stir mixture into egg mixture. Add vanilla, chopped nectarines and coconut. Spread mixture over baked layer while hot. Return to oven. Bake at 350 degrees 30 minutes. Cool in pan on rack.

Cut 21 slices from remaining nectarines and arrange over cake. Combine powdered sugar with enough lemon juice to make icing. Drizzle over cake. Garnish with mint leaves if desired and cut in bars. Makes 21 bars.

FOOD PROCESSOR

WHIPPING CREAM

FROSTING

1 pint whipping cream, well chilled

2 to 3 tablespoons sugar or to taste

1/2 teaspoon vanilla

Place whipping cream in food processor bowl fitted with metal blade. Process few minutes, pulsing at some points just to soft peaks. Add sugar and vanilla and process until thick and fairly stiff. Do not overprocess. Use to frost and fill layer or sheet cakes. (Cream will not have as much volume as whipping cream that has been whipped in electric mixer but will be much more stable as frosting.) Makes 3 1/2 cups.

FUDGY CHOCOLATE GLAZE FOR CAKES

1 (14-ounce) can sweetened condensed milk

2 (1-ounce) squares unsweetened chocolate

1 teaspoon vanilla or brandy

1/4 cup butter

Combine condensed milk and chocolate in top of double boiler over simmering water. Cook, stirring constantly until thickened, 8 to 10 minutes. Stir in vanilla and butter. Heat until butter is melted and blended in. Use glaze to lace chocolate or other flavor cakes. If desired garnish cake with raspberries.