Indulging the Pasta Passion : <i> An itch for Italian?</i>

Bellini’s Trattoria, 12021 West Pico Blvd., West L.A. (213) 477-4057. Style: Neighborhood trattoria with menu full of bright spots. Setting: Bleak. Recommended dishes: Eggplant and goat cheese calzone; bow-tie pasta with artichoke hearts and walnuts; saffron linguine with fresh tomato coulis. Cost per person, food only: $15-$30.

Fresco, 514 S. Brand Blvd., Glendale. (818) 247-5541. Style: Serious contender for best Valley restaurant. Setting: Courtyard with skylight and fake ivy. Recommended dishes: Corn crepe stuffed with duck; insalata tricolore ; risotto with lamb. Cost per person, food only: $25-$40.

Louise’s Trattoria, 232 N. Larchmont Blvd., Los Angeles. (213) 962-9510. Style: Italian chain serving large portions at affordable prices. Setting: Pink coffeeshopesque. Recommended dishes: Chopped salad; tagliatelle with sausage and ground beef; capellini with shrimp and dill cream. Cost per person, food only: $12-$25.

Orso, 8706 W. Third St., Los Angeles. (213) 274-7144. Style: Trendy trattoria for plebs and celebs. Setting: Cosmopolitan--with one of the nicest patios in town. Recommended dishes: Arugula, endive and tomato salad with Parmesan; tagliatelle with grilled vegetables; veal scaloppine. Cost per person, food only: $20-$40.

Tuttopasta, 417 S. Hill St., Los Angeles. (213) 621-2625. Style: Stepchild of trendy Tuttobene. Setting: Pure plastic set in the old Subway Terminal building. Recommended dishes: Pasta e fagioli; penne all’arrabbiata ; roast chicken sandwich; Cost per person, food only: $8-$15.