Never Enough

There are never too many Italian restaurants.

Bellini, 12021 W. Pico Blvd., West Los Angeles. (213) 477-4057. Style: Bleak neighborhood trattoria with cheerful menu. Setting: Gray walls; butcher paper as table cloths. Recommended dishes: Cozze alla Rudy (mussels in lemon broth), farfalle Delfi (bow-tie pasta with browned baby artichoke hearts and walnuts), eggplant and goat cheese calzone. Cost per person: $15-$30.

Da Pasquale, 9749 Santa Monica Blvd., Beverly Hills. (213) 859-3884. Style: Angeli knock-off at K mart prices. Setting: Uncomfortable coffee shop. Recommended dishes: Spinach calzone, osso buco , tirami su. Cost per person: $10-$15.

Emilio Ristorante, 6602 Melrose Ave., Los Angeles. (213) 935-4922. Style: Pleasantly passe serving equal portions of pasta and Puccini. Setting: Touchingly tacky. Recommended dishes: Zuppa pavase (chicken soup with fried bread and poached egg), chicken cacciatore. Cost per person: $15-$25.

Marquis Encino, 16705 Ventura Blvd., Encino. (818) 783-1320. Style: A “much-is-more” approach to luxurious dining. Setting: Lavish ‘70s resort hotel. Recommended dishes: Rack of lamb, prime rib, osso buco paesana. Cost per person: $30-$40.

Orso, 8706 W. 3rd St., Los Angeles. (213) 274-7144. Style: Trendy trattoria for plebs and celebs. Setting: Cosmopolitan--with one of the nicest patios in L.A. Recommended dishes: Arugula, endive and tomato salad with Parmesan; tagliatelle with grilled vegetables; veal scaloppine. Cost per person: $20-$40.