‘Do You Have a Table for Two at 8?’

The restaurant business, people in the business will tell you, is terrible. They blame it on the stock market, on the baby boom, on the changes in the tax laws.

But our almost-annual survey tells a different story. Every year or so we sit down at 4 o’clock on Friday afternoon and call restaurants all over town asking for a table for two at 8 that night.

The first time we did it we discovered that tables were available in all the top of the line expensive restaurants while the hip new grills and cafes simply laughed at the notion that a table might be available on such short notice. A year and a half ago things were different: At 4 o’clock on a Friday afternoon not a single restaurant in town turned us down. While many did not have a table at 8, most were able to accommodate us between 7:30 and 8:30.

Things have changed. These days if you want to make last minute plans for the weekend, you’d best be prepared for dinner at 6 or 10, because that’s when a lot of local restaurants are going to ask you to eat. If you’ve got your eye on Saturday, things get even worse: only a quarter of the restaurants we called on Friday were able to offer us a Saturday night table at a reasonable hour.

Other than reaffirming the fact that Los Angeles loves a new restaurant (and especially a new and reasonable restaurant), few patterns emerged. The top of the line expensive restaurants are doing well, old favorites are doing well, new favorites are thriving. Los Angeles restaurants, in fact, are cooking.

NEW (Open 18 months or less) RESTAURANT: Brentwood Bar and Grill, 11647 San Vicente Blvd., Brentwood, 820-2121 AVAILABLE FRIDAY?: No. “But if you smoke, I can take you at 8:30, otherwise 8:45.” AVAILABLE SATURDAY?: No. 6:45 or 8:45 RESTAURANT: Campanile, 624 S. La Brea Ave., L.A., 938-1447 AVAILABLE FRIDAY?: No. AVAILABLE SATURDAY?: No. RESTAURANT: Checkers, 535 S. Grand Ave., L.A., 624-0000 AVAILABLE FRIDAY?: “8 is tough; 8:30’s better.” AVAILABLE SATURDAY?: Yes. RESTAURANT: DC 3, 2800 Donald Douglas Loop N., Santa Monica, 399-2323 AVAILABLE FRIDAY?: No. (Amused giggle) 6 or 10. AVAILABLE SATURDAY?: No. 6, 6:30 or 10. RESTAURANT: Duplex, 1930 Hillhurst Ave., L.A., 663-2430 AVAILABLE FRIDAY?: Yes. AVAILABLE SATURDAY?: No. 7:45 or 8:15 RESTAURANT: El Mocambo, 8338 W. Third St., L.A., 651-2113 AVAILABLE FRIDAY?: No. “We have a cancellation at 10, which is prime in here--it’s slammin’!” AVAILABLE SATURDAY?: Yes. “But Friday’s better--you’ll have more fun.” RESTAURANT: Engine Co. 28, 644 S. Figueroa St., L.A., 624-6996 AVAILABLE FRIDAY?: “Sure.” AVAILABLE SATURDAY?: No. 8:15. RESTAURANT: Fennel, 1535 Ocean Ave., S.M., 394-2079 AVAILABLE FRIDAY?: No. 9:30 AVAILABLE SATURDAY?: “8? No, not ever. Only 6:45 or 9.” RESTAURANT: Indigo, 8222 1/2 W. Third St., L.A. 653-0140 AVAILABLE FRIDAY?: No. “At this point I have just 6 or 10.” AVAILABLE SATURDAY?: No. “The same; weekends fill up a week ahead of time.” RESTAURANT: Locanda Veneta, 8638 W. Third St., L.A. 274-1893 AVAILABLE FRIDAY?: No. 9:30 AVAILABLE SATURDAY?: No. 5:30 or 10. RESTAURANT: MaBe, 8722 W. Third St., L.A. 276-6223 AVAILABLE FRIDAY?: Yes. “You know, we never take reservations at 8, but we had one today and it just cancelled.” AVAILABLE SATURDAY?: No. “That’s tricky. Either 7 or 9.” RESTAURANT: Ma Maison, 8555 Beverly Blvd., L.A., 655-1991 AVAILABLE FRIDAY?: “Sure, what’s you’re name?” AVAILABLE SATURDAY?: “Tomorrow looks good too.” RESTAURANT: Patina, 5955 Melrose Ave., L.A., 467-1108 AVAILABLE FRIDAY?: No. AVAILABLE SATURDAY?: No. RESTAURANT: Pazzia, 755 N. La Cienega, L.A., 657-9271 AVAILABLE FRIDAY?: No. 7 or 9. AVAILABLE SATURDAY?: No. 7 or 9. RESTAURANT: Orso, 8706 W. Third St., L.A., 274-7144 AVAILABLE FRIDAY?: Yes. “How many, what time?” AVAILABLE SATURDAY?: “Sure.” RESTAURANT: Robata, 250 N. Robertson Blvd., B.H., 274-5533 AVAILABLE FRIDAY?: Yes. AVAILABLE SATURDAY?: No, private party. RESTAURANT: Toscana, 11633 San Vicente Blvd., Brentwood, 820-2448 AVAILABLE FRIDAY?: No. 10. AVAILABLE SATURDAY?: No. 5:30 or 9:45 RESTAURANT: Tribeca, 242 N. Beverly Dr., B.H., 874-2322 AVAILABLE FRIDAY?: No. (Long, dry pause) “Only 6, 6:30 or 10.” AVAILABLE SATURDAY?: No. 6, 6:30, 7 or 9:30. RESTAURANT: Tulipe, 8360 Melrose Ave., L.A., 655-7400 AVAILABLE FRIDAY?: No. 6, 6:30 or 9. AVAILABLE SATURDAY?: No. “Only 6 or 9, otherwise we’re totally booked; we even have a waiting list.” OLDER (but still hot) RESTAURANT: Cafe Mambo, 707 Heliotrope Ave., L.A. 663-5800 AVAILABLE FRIDAY?: No. 8:30. AVAILABLE SATURDAY?: No. 7:30 or 8:30. RESTAURANT: Celestino, 236 S. Beverly Dr., B.H., 859-8601 AVAILABLE FRIDAY?: “Can you come in at 9? It’s really screwed up tonight. AVAILABLE SATURDAY?: No. “How ‘bout 8:30?” RESTAURANT: Cha Cha Cha, 656 N. Virgil Ave., L.A., 664-7723 AVAILABLE FRIDAY?: No. 7 or 9:30 AVAILABLE SATURDAY?: No. “From 5 to 7 or at 9:30 only.” RESTAURANT: Chianti Cucina, 7383 Melrose Ave., L.A., 653-8333 AVAILABLE FRIDAY?: No. “6:30 and earlier or 10 and later.” AVAILABLE SATURDAY?: No.”The same, but I have something at our other restaurant, Cucina.” RESTAURANT: Chinois, 2709 Main St., S.M., 392-9025 AVAILABLE FRIDAY?: No. AVAILABLE SATURDAY?: No. RESTAURANT: Citrus, 6703 Melrose Ave., L.A., 857-0034 AVAILABLE FRIDAY?: No. 7 or 9. AVAILABLE SATURDAY?: No. 7 or 9. RESTAURANT: Champagne, 10506 Santa Monica Blvd., L.A., 470-8446 AVAILABLE FRIDAY?: Yes. AVAILABLE SATURDAY?: Yes. RESTAURANT: City, 180 S. La Brea Ave., L.A., 938-2155 AVAILABLE FRIDAY?: “Wait, (gasp, followed by giggle) yes!” AVAILABLE SATURDAY?: Yes. RESTAURANT: Fresco, 514 S. Brand, Glendale, (818) 247-5541 AVAILABLE FRIDAY?: No. 7:45 or 8:45. AVAILABLE SATURDAY?: No. 7:45 or 8:45. RESTAURANT: The Grill, 9560 Dayton Way, B.H., 276-0615 AVAILABLE FRIDAY?: Yes. AVAILABLE SATURDAY?: No. 8:30 RESTAURANT: La Toque, 8171 Sunset Blvd., L.A., 656-7515 AVAILABLE FRIDAY?: “Yes, I suppose. But tomorrow is better; there aremore tables. AVAILABLE SATURDAY?: Yes. RESTAURANT: Parkway Grill, 510 S. Arroyo Pkwy., Pasadena, (818) AVAILABLE FRIDAY?: 795-1001 AVAILABLE SATURDAY?: No. 8:45. AVAILABLE FRIDAY?: No. 8:45. RESTAURANT: Rebecca’s, 2025 Pacific Ave., Venice, 306-6266 AVAILABLE FRIDAY?: No. 6, 6:30 or 10:45. AVAILABLE SATURDAY?: No. “Nothing inprime time. I have some 7s and 9:30s.” RESTAURANT: Rockenwagner, 1023 W. Washington Blvd., Venice, 399-6504 AVAILABLE FRIDAY?: No. “Let’s see, what can I do? I can do 8:45. Or else 6 or 9:30.” AVAILABLE SATURDAY?: No. “6, 6:15 or 9:30--Friday’s better.” RESTAURANT: Saddle Peak Lodge, 419 Cold Canyon Road, Calabasas, (818) 340-6029 AVAILABLE FRIDAY?: No. “I’m sorry, tonight is completely booked.” AVAILABLE SATURDAY?: No. “Tomorrow is exactly the same.” RESTAURANT: 72 Market Street, 72 Market St., Venice, 392-8720. AVAILABLE FRIDAY?: No. 6:45 or 10:30. AVAILABLE SATURDAY?: No. “Nothing at all.” RESTAURANT: St. Estephe, 2640 N. Sepulveda Blvd. Manhattan Beach, 545-1334 AVAILABLE FRIDAY?: No. 7:30 or 8:30 AVAILABLE SATURDAY?: No. 7 or 8:30. “I should tell you that a lot of restaurants don’t even take reservations at 8--it’s the worst time.” RESTAURANT: Spago, 1114 Horn Ave., W. Hlywd, 652-4025 AVAILABLE FRIDAY?: No. (Annoying folk music plays while you’re on hold.) AVAILABLE SATURDAY?: No. “We’re totally filled out.” RESTAURANT: Trattoria Angeli, 11651 Santa Monica Blvd., W.L.A., 478-1191 AVAILABLE FRIDAY?: Yes. “We just had a cancellation.” AVAILABLE SATURDAY?: “Yes, but there aren’t many left.” RESTAURANT: Trumps, 8764 Melrose Ave., W. Hlywd, 855-1480 AVAILABLE FRIDAY?: “No, but I do have an 8:15.” AVAILABLE SATURDAY?: No. 6:30 or 9:30. RESTAURANT: Tuttobene, 945 N. Fairfax Ave., W. Hollywood, 655-7051 AVAILABLE FRIDAY?: “I think so ... yes!” AVAILABLE SATURDAY?: No. “We’re packed; nothing before 9.” RESTAURANT: West Beach Cafe, 60 N. Venice Blvd., Venice, 823-5396 AVAILABLE FRIDAY?: No. 9:30 AVAILABLE SATURDAY?: No. 9:30. CLASSICS RESTAURANT: Bistro, 246 N. Canon Dr., B.H., 273-5633 AVAILABLE FRIDAY?: Yes. AVAILABLE SATURDAY?: No. “Early there’s 6 and 6:30 if you’re out by 7:45. Or 9:15. RESTAURANT: Chasen’s, 9039 Beverly Blvd., L.A., 271-2168 AVAILABLE FRIDAY?: Yes. AVAILABLE SATURDAY?: Yes. RESTAURANT: Dan Tana’s, 9071 Santa Monica Blvd., W. Hlywd., 275-9444 AVAILABLE FRIDAY?: No. “6:30 or before and 9:30 or after. But we may have a cancellation; talk to the maitre d’ after 5.” AVAILABLE SATURDAY?: No. “It’s the same situation.” RESTAURANT: Jimmy’s, 201 Moreno Dr., B.H., 879-2394 AVAILABLE FRIDAY?: Yes. AVAILABLE SATURDAY?: Yes. RESTAURANT: La Scala, 410 N. Canon Dr., B.H. 275-0579 AVAILABLE FRIDAY?: No. 8:45, 9 or 9:30. AVAILABLE SATURDAY?: 8:45. RESTAURANT: L’Escoffier, 9876 Wilshire Blvd., B.H., 274-7777 AVAILABLE FRIDAY?: No. 9:30. AVAILABLE SATURDAY?: No. “Completely booked.” BIG MONEY RESTAURANT: Hotel Bel-Air, 701 Stone Canyon Rd., L.A., 472-1211 AVAILABLE FRIDAY?: No. 7 or 8:30. “We don’t have an 8 o’clock seating.” AVAILABLE SATURDAY?: No. Same. RESTAURANT: La Serre, 12969 Ventura Blvd., Studio City, (818) 990-0500 AVAILABLE FRIDAY?: Yes. AVAILABLE SATURDAY?: 7:30 or 8:30. RESTAURANT: L’Ermitage, 730 N. La Cienega Blvd., L.A., 652-5840 AVAILABLE FRIDAY?: No. 7:30 or 8:30. AVAILABLE SATURDAY?: “Exactly at 8?Hell, let me just change one of these. . . . Or is 9 OK?” RESTAURANT: L’Orangerie, 903 N. La Cienega Blvd., L.A., 652-9770 AVAILABLE FRIDAY?: Yes.”You’re in luck, we had a cancellation not 5 minutes ago.” AVAILABLE SATURDAY?: No. “Call after 4:30; we might have a cancellation.” RESTAURANT: Michael’s, 1147 Third St., S.M., 451-0843 AVAILABLE FRIDAY?: Yes. AVAILABLE SATURDAY?: No. 6:30 or 9. RESTAURANT: Rex, 617 S. Olive, L.A., 627-2300 AVAILABLE FRIDAY?: Yes. AVAILABLE SATURDAY?: Yes. RESTAURANT: Valentino, 3115 Pico Blvd., S.M., 829-4313 AVAILABLE FRIDAY?: Yes. AVAILABLE SATURDAY?: Yes. CELEBRITY SPOTS

RESTAURANT: Il Giardino, 9235 W. Third St., B.H., 275-5444 AVAILABLE FRIDAY?: Yes. AVAILABLE SATURDAY?: Yes. RESTAURANT: The Ivy, 113 N. Robertson Blvd., L.A., 274-8303 AVAILABLE FRIDAY?: No. 7 or 9:45. AVAILABLE SATURDAY?: No. 6:30 or 10. RESTAURANT: Le Dome, 8720 Sunset Blvd., W. Hlywd., 659-6919 AVAILABLE FRIDAY?: No. 8:15. AVAILABLE SATURDAY?: 7:30 or 9. RESTAURANT: Morton’s, 8800 Melrose Ave., W. Hlywd., 276-5205 AVAILABLE FRIDAY?: No. 7 or 9. AVAILABLE SATURDAY?: No. 7:30 or 9. RESTAURANT: Nicky Blair’s, 8730 Sunset Blvd., W. Hlywd., 659-0929 AVAILABLE FRIDAY?: Yes, but only in front bar dining area. AVAILABLE SATURDAY?: Same as Friday.