Sniffing Out Spots to Eat the Treasured White Truffle

Caviar is delightful. Caviar is decadent. Caviar is delicious. But the one time I finally got enough of it, I was struck with the suspicion that if I ate caviar every day I might actually get tired of it.

White truffles, however, are another matter. Their subtle flavor haunts you, but it’s so elusive that as soon as the truffle has disappeared it’s hard to remember what it tasted like--and so you want some more.

White truffles have just come into season (which will last a brief couple of months), and I suggest eating them every chance you get. They are an expensive experience, but of all the food luxuries the one that’s most worthwhile. Here are a few of the restaurants featuring them:

Bagatta: 3012 Newport Blvd., Newport Beach; (714) 675-4020. (They’re due to arrive this week.) Risotto, about $20; carpaccio , price not set yet.

Champagne: 10506 Santa Monica Blvd., Los Angeles; (213) 470-8446. Peppered venison tournedos with white truffle and potato puree, $32; white squab with white truffle puree, $24.50.

Chianti: 7383 Melrose Ave., Los Angeles; (213) 653-8333. Casoncelli , cheese ravioli with white truffles, $9.75

Fresco: 514 S. Brand Blvd., Glendale; (818) 247-5541. Risotto, $18; tagliolini , $15.

Il Giardino: 9235 W. 3rd St., Beverly Hills; (213) 275-5444. Salad with porcini and truffle, $28; risotto, $30.

La Toque: 8171 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood; (213) 656-7515. “I’m waiting another week or so,” chef-owner Ken Frank says, “until we’re farther into the season so they’re more mature. Then I’ll put them on salads.” $18.

Pazzia: 755 N. La Cienega Blvd., Los Angeles; (213) 657-9271. Poached eggs with crust of bread topped with white asparagus, Parmesan cheese, noisette butter with white truffle, $22; raviolo-- one very big raviolo stuffed with whole egg yolks, puree of spinach, Parmesan cheese, ricotta and topped with a little butter, more Parmesan and white truffle, $24.

Valentino: 3115 Pico Blvd., Santa Monica; (213) 829-4313. Carpaccio with the blessing of incredible oil, $18. Uovo al tartuffo , $19. Warm porcini and truffle salad, $17.