Quality of Service, Decibel Level Both High at Angeli Mare

Perhaps having two working restaurants really makes a difference. For Angeli Mare, 13455 Maxella Ave., Marina del Rey, (213) 822-1984, not only opened on Monday as scheduled--it opened with a certain smoothness. By Tuesday, when I got there, the place was frighteningly full for a new restaurant, but the food was coming out of the kitchen as if the staff had been together for months.

The food is not dramatically different from that at the other Angelis--except in one respect. In

addition to the pizzas, pastas and salads of the other two, this Angeli offers a lot of fish. I particularly recommend the Tuscan fish soup, the grilled tuna and the squid risotto.

I also recommend that you bring ear plugs. The architecture of this room is even more avant-garde than the other two. The room is wonderful; when you walk in the door, you feel as if you are entering the belly of a whale. Only this is a whale that roars.