FASHION : In Search of Clothes for the Older Woman

Two fashionable First Ladies, Nancy Reagan and Barbara Bush, have inspired millions of women age 60 or older to perk up their wardrobes and show the world that a passion for fashion does not diminish with age.

But women who can’t afford the First Favorites--designers like James Galanos and Bill Blass for Reagan, Blass and Arnold Scaasi for Bush--say they have a terrible time finding stylish clothes appropriate for their age.

Older customers’ complaints range from a dearth of natural-fiber fashions to a shortage of sportswear that will camouflage figure problems. They complain too about the lack of “weekend styles,” clothes that are dressier than sweat suits but not as dressy as bespangled cruise-wear ensembles.

Petite-size seniors can’t always find outfits that allow for full-busted figures. Tall women have problems hiding thick middles with clothes designed for younger, svelte bodies. And everybody seems to agree on the shortage of services and conveniences offered to mature shoppers.

Officials at large department and specialty stores in Los Angeles concede that they have no particular marketing programs aimed toward women age 60 or older. A number of stores do carry clothes appropriate for older women, but the merchandise is scattered in various departments because outlets are organized around life styles, not age groups.

Some representatives say their stores are willing to offer special services but that older customers have never requested them.

If department store merchandise isn’t enough to keep senior shoppers happy, advisers warn, retailers will miss out on a golden opportunity.

“Older people have money to spend and the time to spend it,” Jack Shewmaker, former vice chairman of Wal-Mart stores, recently told a gathering of retailing executives.

He said that by 1999, 34% of Americans will be 50 or older, compared to the current 25%. Already, 62 million people age 55 or older control half the country’s disposable income and 80% of the deposits in savings and loan associations.

Rather than succumb to their shopping frustrations, a number of women 60 or older have found ways around them.

Jean Patterson, a Morro Bay retiree in her mid-70s, starts by admitting that she dreads shopping.

“When I was younger, I was greeted with enthusiasm by sales clerks, “ she recalled. “Now I have to get on my knees and beg for help.”

But she points out how important it is for women her age to dress well: “It boosts confidence. It enhances self-esteem.”

Like many older shoppers, Patterson has turned from department stores to small, local boutiques for help. In smaller shops, the services tend to be more personal.

Her favorite store is Clothes & Co., a Morro Bay boutique specializing in the bright, gauzy cotton and rayon clothes she likes to wear.

Few retail businesses openly court an older clientele. But one that does is Draper’s & Damon’s, with 10 branches from Glendale to Palm Springs. Sandra Glende, manager of the San Marino store (simply called Damon’s) says attention to older customers has paid off.

“Our store in San Marino been here since 1936, and last year was the biggest year we’ve ever had,” she said. “Business has gotten better and better over the last five years.”

She attributes that success to one thing in particular: “Older women have been raised with a certain standard of graciousness.”

Among “gracious” services Glende offers older shoppers are convenient parking, free refreshments, four full-time seamstresses and a carry-out service for taking purchases to a car.

Popular labels in the store are Castleberry knits for Chanel-look suits and Da-Rue sportswear. After-five wear and mother-of-the-bride outfits represent a significant part of sales at Glende’s store. Favorite labels in those categories are Miss Elliette, Jack Bryan and Karen Lawrence.

For women willing to spend $1,200 and up for an outfit, the fashion universe broadens. Several Beverly Hills boutiques, including Greta, Suite 101 and Maruscha cater to older women.

Miriam Parkes, a former model now in her 60s, designs clothes for women of her generation. Her signature dresses are long-sleeved chemises that camouflage heavy midriffs and arms. She uses flowing capes, Isadora Duncan-like scarfs and made-to-match cloth flowers to draw attention to the neckline or shoulders rather than the waist.

But many women 60 or older still hope to find solutions in larger department and specialty stores.

Lillian McCarger of Cypress, Calif., admits: “I sometimes groan when I have to go shopping.” So, the active grandmother wears her favorite department store finds for many years, because it is so difficult to replace them.

Sally Dendel, just over 5 feet tall, said she is too short for the shoulder pads in many dresses and jackets. So the 70-year-old Dana Point resident removes them. A department store shopper, she has the best luck in the petite offerings at Robinson’s.

Beebe Klein, who simply says she is over 65, is a veteran Los Angeles public relations consultant who specializes in show business clients. She relies on Saks Fifth Avenue and Bullocks Wilshire for most of her wardrobe.

Like McCarger, Klein buys classics she can wear for years, because it so difficult to find new clothes that she likes. This season, she did buy a long-sleeve dress with flared skirt in black wool crepe. She paid $375 for it at Ann Taylor but said it will never go out of style.

Until stores catch up with the needs and wishes of shoppers aged 60 or older, long-term fashion investments such as Klein’s black dress may be an older woman’s best solution.