Lamb, Beef Stews Simmer Perfectly in Half the Time

Nothing warms the bones on a cold day faster than a steaming bowl of stew. That we all know.

But what many of us don’t realize is that the microwave makes a nifty stew pot. A terrific slow cooker. Not that you’ll need all day--or even all afternoon--to microwave a stew. Far from it. The two stews we offer here--one beef, one lamb--simmer to succulence in half the time it would take you to cook them the old-fashioned way.

Both call for exactly the same cuts as old-time stews--moderately priced beef chuck and budget-priced lamb neck. They’re tough cuts, it’s true. But they won’t remain so for long because the microwave’s moist heat magically converts their gristle and sinew to gelatin. It also manages to develop all the flavor we associate with stews that have bubbled atop the stove for hours.

Our beef stew, in fact, begins on top of the stove--the meat needs a good browning if the stew is to achieve the nut-brown color and caramel-like flavor of a true carbonnade. But the lamb stew cooks in the microwave from start to finish. And you can’t get much more accommodating than that.

Once you’ve used your microwave for stew, you won’t want to prepare it any other way. It’s quick, it’s clean (no need to worry about scorched pans) and it’s very nearly foolproof.

CARBONNADE FLAMANDE (Flemish Beef and Beer Stew)

3 tablespoons bacon drippings or butter

2 medium onions, minced

2 large cloves garlic, minced

2 pounds boned beef chuck, cut into 1-inch cubes

1/2 cup flour

2 teaspoons salt

1/4 teaspoon black pepper

2 cups beer

1/4 teaspoon dried thyme, crumbled

1/8 teaspoon ground nutmeg

Microwave 1 tablespoon drippings with onions and garlic in wax-paper-covered microwave-safe, 3-quart casserole on HIGH (100% power) 4 to 5 minutes until tender.

Dredge beef in mixture of flour, 1 teaspoon salt and 1/8 teaspoon pepper. Brown in 2 batches in remaining 2 tablespoons drippings in large heavy skillet over moderately high stove top heat, allowing 3 minutes per batch. Add beef to casserole.

Add 1 cup beer to skillet and cook 1 minute, stirring to loosen browned bits. Pour into casserole along with remaining 1 cup beer, 1 teaspoon salt, 1/8 teaspoon pepper, thyme and nutmeg.

Cover with lid and microwave on HIGH (100% power) 9 to 10 minutes, stirring at half time, until boiling. Stir, re-cover and microwave on MEDIUM (50% power) 40 to 50 minutes, stirring at half time, until beef is tender. Let stand, covered, 5 minutes. Makes 4 to 6 servings.

Note: Serve with new potatoes and well-chilled beer.

IRISH STEW

3 pounds lean lamb neck (with bones), cut into 2-inch chunks

2 large onions, halved and sliced tissue-thin

1/4 teaspoon black pepper

2 1/2 cups water

2 teaspoons salt

5 medium potatoes, peeled and halved

2 tablespoons minced parsley

Arrange lamb in single layer in microwave-safe 5-quart casserole with smaller pieces in center. Scatter onions evenly over meat, sprinkle with pepper and water combined with salt.

Cover with lid and microwave on HIGH (100% power) 18 to 20 minutes, rotating casserole 180 degrees at half time, until liquid boils. Reduce power to MEDIUM (50% power) and microwave 30 minutes, turning lamb over and rearranging at half time.

Space potatoes evenly on top of stew, push down into liquid, re-cover and microwave on MEDIUM 18 to 20 minutes, rearranging potatoes and rotating casserole 180 degrees at half time, until potatoes and meat are just tender.

Let stand, covered, 5 minutes. If liquid seems greasy, lift meat and potatoes to heated deep platter with slotted spoon, cover and keep warm, then skim fat from liquid. Sprinkle stew with parsley, ladle into bowls and serve with plenty of liquid. Makes 4 servings.

Note: In ovens of less than 600 watts, increase cooking times about 15%.